Kentish

Well it's been scuttled, but I have the new and unused spare wheel and tyre, jack and tool kit if anyone is interested.

Hello after quite a while:) Next week my Barge (2003 Superb) goes to the crushers, still looking as good as it did in 2003 at Bruntingthorpe. It's not been a bad car having covered 72k....and full history, but scrappage calls and its Japanese and petrol next time. Oh well, will be a shame but all things in life must end and time waits for no-one.

R134a is a HydroChloroFlouroCarbon (HCFC) and it's not ozone depleting is in still in use. You pull a vacuum on the system to boil of any debris/oil/refridgerant or moisture to allow the refridgerant to flow unimpeeded. As for not using gauges....what do you think we used years ago? Yes you had a still to measure so many grams of R12 or R134a to enter the system after pulling the vacuum for around 20-30 mins, but you could tell everything by the low gauge connected to the low side stubbon the compressor, and the same can still apply if you know how to read the gauges. BTW hello after many years of absence

Want to borrow my dog mike??? He hates foxes. Trouble is the people who have them living in their gardens..........not far from me or you

What make?

Depends on the the make of dishwasher. Some have more robust softeners than others (which is usually governeg by the size of resin chamber and size of metering tank that holds the water to make salty). Whereabouts are you in the country?

You set it how you want, it matters not to me. I can't be bothered with this anymore, since anything I put down you need to get confirmation. This is a car forum and not a white goods forum. If you want umpteen people to respond and give you lots to get confirmed then visit a white goods forum, and don't be surprised when the answers you get are the same as those given already. It is obvious to me that my 28 years in the trade including 13 years at a manufacturer means I know less than a desk jockey.

Water flows through the salt into the resin chamber (which is normally good for the life of the machine) during every drying cycle (normal practice) not every so often. The white debris on the motor is scale based, so hard water has been an issue. Water generally gets through the mechanical seal, following the shaft and through the bearing. You set your water softenor where you want... I know where I set mine and every dishwasher I attend. You crack on with your speculation and opinions, you won't be the first one who can't see the woods for the trees.

Salt does not soften the water, the chemical resin draws the water impurities and thus softens the water. The salt is used to flush the resin clean, but hey ho. You crack on, as I can clearly see that you know far more about how a dishwasher actually works than I. :wonder:

The water softenor should be on the max setting already. You should also be refilling the salt chamber back to max weekly so as when you forget to top it up the salt is still present in enough quantities to be able to clean the resin within the softenor. Ignore also the junk the multi tabs spout......you still need salt regardless. Knowing that 95% of all dishwasher faults are salt related (and that is from 28 yrs in the srevice game), and you saying your previous model also had 2 motors within a short period tells me that salt is not being put in as much as you need to. Yes you get odd lemons, but 2 seperate machines needing 3 motors withing not too long a time in total tells the story. Dishwasher cleaners are not needed if the softenor is being flushed through correctly as the detergent would be able to dissolve and remove all grease and stains, so you can see why I say "salt, salt,salt" As far as tha mchine being entry level, it's not. It is a niche market machine and one day will be binned altogether as the costs of production over volume sold mean it is an expensive item for what it is. They will go the same way as the top loading washing machines, trust me. I would suggest that when the Appliance Care engineer comes to fix the dishwasher, quiz him on the softenor and check the motor. If the impellor turns freely then you can say the windings are probably at fault (very rare), if however the impellor is siezed or tight then you have to ask "why", and seeing as the motor seal is a mechanical seal (ceramic disc on carbon spring face) the water not being softened correctly must be looked at. For more possible proof.....when the dishwasher was going, did you get white clouding on your glasses or staining not being removed from cup etc?

LOL............. the machine is under a year old and therefore proof or purchase is all that is required. The second year is their way of obtaining details to push through a third party warranty for the following years, but registration is required for the second year. Dishwasher motors don't just have faulty bearings after 10 months.. Chances are you don't put enough salt into the softenor and so the motor seals have been attacked by the hard water and allowed leakage through the seals into the bearing. (If you live in a soft water area then most probably failed seals). As you say you have had motor issues befor with your dishwasher suggests you don't use enough salt......do you wait for the oil light to come on before checking your engine for oil ? I thought not. White goods are what we the public will pay for. Machines used to last as they were more expensive in real terms. Machines now are built to the price the public will pay. If you want a better quality machine then pay more for something like a Miele. In any case, the 2 machines you offer through those links originally are 2 different machines.....the first being the original German table top unit, the second looks like the Electrolux group style, but seeing as there is another non-EU make producing a similar product then your guess. It's good to know that you will only use the manufacturere for your repairs (does that apply to all things you own?) rather than using a good and reliable third party who would charge a fraction of those labour costs. Anyway, back to the motor.......the base of the dishwasher should be checked for any wet marks under the motor, and the motor casing inspected for scale marks. If there are any, the water softenor should ideally be replaced as well. You don't change the engine oil without changing the oil filter.

NIce wheel there Mike....I had already seen it blocking the pavement;). I know of a very good non franchised Landy garage if you need one, who can work wonders with all aspects of them;) Email me, or knock the front door if you want their details. Andy

I have the same 2.5 lump in my Transporter, and was told by VW that the engine is a gear driven cam, so how hard that is to set up is your guess. Anyway, I would wander over to this forum....VW T4 Forum Join them, and ask away on the T5 section.

Nod support forums are over at Wilders Security Forums - Powered by vBulletin There were some issues with V4 and servers, which are due to be sorted..apparently.

Dyson produce a new model every month, is that really a good move? If permanent filters were so wonderful and effective why don't cars have them?, especially considering a vacuum has to catch smaller particles of dust than a car. If you want a decent vacuum cleaner, then it's Miele for a cylinder or Sebo for an upright.....and guess what both use bags (for a reason).