Td-eye

Good innit ! Swmbo's Furby combi was remapped to about 140bhp and I'm happy enough with that as I think we are probably talking bigger turbo and larger injectors to get much higher gains than that and then it starts getting complicated. I believe that Jason, (Devonutopia) started off with a PD100 although I think he's currently using a PD130 based lump and look where he is now circa. 260bhp I believe .... it's a slippery slope you're going down. I remember you also have a Golf, you should get that remapped as well, I was very impressed with the gains achieved on the Golf (PD130) more so than on Swmbo's Furby although both vehicles saw significant power increases...have fun !

Good guide Skudmisile ! One thing I would recommend though is replacing the top engine mounting bolts on re-assembly as they are stretch bolts and not designed to be re-used. I have heard of quite a few cases now on VAG engined vehicles where the bolts have not been replaced and the engines have dropped when the bolts snapped causing considerable damage.:eek: I suspect that this Briskoda post may be yet another sad example of this.:( Great guide though and well done !

Yes, the end of it slides inwards allowing it to release.

I did ! This is what the timing belt kit consists of (ignore the crappy tools in the picture), I changed all this plus waterpump & stretch bolts. Good luck ! EDIT: If you haven't bought the parts yet, I got mine from THIS guy on ebay who is very reasonable & as he runs a VAG dealership supplies genuine VAG parts ! You need a kit for ASZ code engine for the VRS.

...... replace the top engine mounting stretch bolts with new ones and make sure you have some G12 antifreeze ready to replace what's lost when doing the pump.

Yep, Vagtacho. Pop over onto UKMkIV's forum and contact user Kalu about this, I'm sure he'll help you out with your Golf.

I think the description above is about right & Vagcom is probably the most useful tool for reading/clearing general fault codes & enabling certain functions wheras Vagtacho is more aimed at reading or writing code related to the dashboard functions contained in the VAG Kombi-instrument / Immo box EEPROM. This includes things such as reading immobiliser & key codes, altering dash lighting, mileage correction, mfa functions etc. It reads code from the EEPROM in the car which is downloaded as a hexidecimal file and can be modified with an apropriate editor & re-written to the cars EEPROM again as required. It also seems that different dash/immobiliser types require different software versions of Vagtacho (or Vag Commander for canbus vehicles) to access them, and certainly one version won't access all. I was lucky in that the Vagtacho V.6 I bought worked on both the different VDO type dashes on my Golf & SWMBO's Fabia. Depends what you want to do really, I have both but Vagcom would seem the most useful for every day use diagnosing faults etc & is the one I use most.

I did actually manage to log into SWMBO's Fabia with version 1.6 of Vagtacho although it's an older model (2002) with a V09 VDO dash. I got the pin code, I'd be very interested to know is this the same as the SKC it's in the format of one numeral and three letters ? If so, that's handy as I was never given the SKC when we bought the car. I was able to read the eeprom ok and have taken a file dump of it, anyone know of any useful code changes, enable lit needles etc ? Anyway, the cable served it's intended purpose on my Golf which now has lit needles and the "miles to empty" function enabled & anything else I manage to achieve on the Fabia will be a bonus.

There's one under the bonnet on the front bulkhead, one above the rear wheel arch ( clicky ) which is probably your culprit & I think? there's also one in the rear head lining. Keep the washer filled with the correct mixture VAG screenwash which will stop the jets clogging up and the pipes from freezing which are the main culprits of pipes coming off.

Had this happen on my Golf. If it's the same switch as a Golf see: Need help with Glove Box Light Switch - TDIClub Forums

It's the diesel fuel cooler.

I'd try your rear screen wash and see if it works ? There's a join in the screen wash pipe in the engine bay that's prone to coming apart if it freezes up, it could be that ? Worth checking anyway.

Three hours tops, I did mine myself in less than 3 hrs.

Do a quick check of NADICS live cameras before you leave for realtime info.

Diesel spills cause many motorcycle accidents, diesel is actually a light oil which often spills out of vehicles fuel tanks because of missing fuel caps etc as they go round corners. As you might imagine a motorcyclist with only two wheels has little chance of staying on his machine if encountering any oil on the road on a corner & hence the very real hatred of diesel spills by motorcyclists. HTH.

It's needed for the petrol engined models.

Three points. 1)The co-efficient of expansion of diesel is negligible (search for previous posts on ventectomy for further info on this) . 2) The filer cap on the Fabia is designed not to allow diesel to leak out although granted (without stating the obvious) if you forget to replace the cap with or without the mod, it may actually spill out ! 3) I can see nothing in this mod that would suggest it might cause diesel to spill and likewise from personal experience I have seen no signs of diesel spill on any of my vehicles. Furthermore, I have not heard of one instance of diesel spill following this mod on the hundereds or more likely thousands of such mods carried out in the U.S.A. As stated previously if I thought for one moment this mod could cause diesel spills or if anyone can provide hard evidence of this, I will not condone it !

I couldn't agree more with the sentiments in that link, I am a motorcyclist, BMF Member & VJMC member. What I fail to understand though is why you attach it to this thread about the "ventectomy mod" ? If you are somehow trying to insinuate that by doing this mod you will some how spill diesel on the road, please try and fully understand what the modification entails. The expansion tank and vent valve (modified or unmodified) is part of sealed system and vents back into the tank under the fuel filler cap & in NO WAY will cause any diesel spills. Please clarify why you are posting this ? I would NEVER condone ANY diesel spillage.

Nope, you don't need to touch the cable. The filler cap catch is attached to the body of the car (you can see it in the photo) and the whole door assembly comes off leaving this in place, easy, peasy !

No sign of this happening at all, being a motorcyclist were this to be the case I would never condone this mod ! Hope that helps.

No it doesn't affect the cut off but you get a sort of bonus warning of the kind of sound you get when a milk bottle is filled from a tap so you know when you're nearing full ! As per Basil I've had both vehicles (Golf & Fabia) modded like this for quite a while now and done a couple of friends vehicles with no problems.

At the request of another member, I have been asked to post up this "how to" guide. I have done this mod on both my Golf Tdi & my wifes Fabia Tdi, it takes about fifteen minutes to do and it has given us both extra tank capacity, quicker filling and caused absolutely no problems whatsoever. This is a short guide on how to add about five litres or so extra capacity to your diesel tank and should only be attempted on DIESEL engined vehicles & definitely NOT on petrol engined vehicles. It is known as the "ventectomy" mod, very common in the U.S.A. and a quick search of this site will cover all the arguments for and against carrying it out. For those that wish to try it, the procedure is simple and is as follows: 1. Open fuel filler door. 2. Remove Torx screw. 3. Unscrew fuel cap. 4. Remove fuel flap door and inner trim by carefully pulling out at screw hole and moving the whole item (door, seal & drain pipe) towards the rear of the car the whole assembly should come out. 5. The plastic drain hose can be pulled out with the assembly. 6. On the right of the fuel filler neck you will see a black plastic bit protruding out about one inch (on the left on a Golf) The valve you wish to remove is inside this bit & white in colour. Using flat screwdriver it's possible to remove the valve by pushing the white tab in and at the same time levering the valve outwards. This is done via the slot where the valve can be seen in the black plastic outer. It should be levered out away from the filler neck while pusing inwards on the white tab. It helps to push on vent "button" from inside filler neck as well. 7. Remove white valve assembly THIS IS IMPORTANT remove the valve, spring & retainer from inside the white valve assembly and REFIT the white assembly minus the valve etc to the car. 8 Refit the filler door & seal, and secure with torx screw. Enjoy extra tank capacity & vent free filling ! Pictures of this job being done on a Mk4 Golf (virtually the same) at this link: Removal of the Fuel vent in an A4 Golf/Jetta

The readout from the onboard computer is not particularly accurate, things like wheel size & tyre size will affect the readings you get & in Jasons case his propane injection ! I have been playing with a bit of software called vagtacho on my Golf Tdi this morning and I've just managed to permanantly illuminate the needles on the dash which looks great IMO ! During my research into how to do this, I came accross a thread on the tdiclub forum in which it appears that it is actually possible (if you know what you are doing) to fine tune the onboard computer to make it more accurate in reporting fuel consumption against known values using something the Americans refer to as a " fudge factor". It's seems it's possible to do this on VW's & probably on Skodas also if you were so inclined. For anyone remotely interested the information is contained within a thread starting about here: Anyone enable the "welcome" cluster message? - Page 7 - TDIClub Forums

I guess that'll be the ATD coded engine 100bhp ( PD100 ) same as SWMBO has here in her Blue Furby Estate only her one has been remapped to about 140bhp.

Interested....what do you use ? I've never been that convinced about performance filters, this probably stems back to my youth running Mini's with no filter just a bit of metal gauze over a bellmouth (subsequent mixture richening applied of course) with very little performance increase evident without lumpy cams lcb exhausts etc also added to the mix. I just use a stock paper filter which I change every 6,000 miles now & not the excessive period recommended by skoda !