blouis79

Mine is still working at 13 years old. Varta specs say the individual NiMH cells have a life of 1000 cycles or 6 years at 25degC - which is where the replace at 6 years recommendation comes from. TME55620101501 VARTA MICROBATTERY - Re-battery: Ni-MH | coin...VARTA MICROBATTERY 55620101501 | Re-battery: Ni-MH; coin,V200H; 1.2V; 200mAh; 25.4x13.9x7.1mm - This product is available in Transfer Multisort Elektronik. Check out our wide range of products.I got a lot of other parts from TME - very happy with TME. USD15 for 5 cells. Easy to spot weld and recover old mounts. Skoda parts shows the following part numbers as equivalent. 1K0 951 605 F 1K0 951 605 A 1K0 951 605 B 1K0 951 605 C 1K0 951 605 D 1K8 951 605 1K8 951 605 A 1K8 951 605 B The case design has changed for some but size, mount and socket look the same according to pics on Aliexpress. Whole unit about €50 - have seen ones made in italy.

I haven’t had any faults yet but been reading the complete yeti service manual that says the alarm battery supposedly should be replaced every 6 years. I presume the backup battery is the same as the OPs. Varta 5/V200H are showing as available on some battery supplier sites, relatively expensive. Note the fleabay listing using pic from here doesn’t show a pic of the actual battery - the sellers other listing for the same battery code has different solder tabs so not a simple swap. Varta V200H individual cells are available (eg from TME for not much). Chinese lithium powered battery spot welders are great for joining cells using nickel strips. I have an FNIRSI one. Varta 5/V150H is available (eg Conrad), smaller capacity and different solder pins and costs similar to the correct one. At least should keep the computer happy. Varta CP300H (300mAh) is cylindrical and a bit longer (up to 10mm) and wider ?12mm but same height. Looks like it should be able to fit in the case with a little internal modification. I’m half inclined to try using flexible wire so the battery can be stuck in the case rather than soldered on the board. RS pro has the same battery size for half the price of Varta. If happy to not have a backup battery, the circuit could be modified to get 6V from the car battery, which should keep the computer happy. I presume there is a 6V supply on the board already somewhere.

(obviously the brain was a bit foggy and clearly the lambda sensor is on the exhaust side.) So after a few more tanks of diesel and injector cleaner, real fuel consumption is still high. Cooling fan is still running on presumed turbo timer on switch off. New MAF sensor seems to have fixed it and Yeti appears to behave like normal. Bosch 0281002956 is a one piece unit made in Germany. Maxidot seems to continue to lie at the moment, with reported fuel consumption way lower than real. Still can't find what data feeds the fuel consumption figure. If the computer used fuel input and km travelled, then the number should be close to real. I read that hot-film MAF sensors tend to cause rich running at idle and lean at high RPM. I couldn't find any clues in VCDS that the MAF sensor was misbehaving. Can't find an injector offset out of range. I did try unplugging to see if connector corrosion might be a cause. Later got a random fault in the middle of gearchange off throttle with clutch disengaged, the engine ran up to redline then back to normal. VCDS reported no faults after the fact. Not sure what could cause that. Any ideas???? Curiously there is contamination of scant oily residue in the intake ducting which presumably comes from the vacuum hose upstream of the MAF sensor. Air box after air filter is spotless. This presumably is the source of sensor contamination. Looks like the first option for next time fuel consumption runs high is to change the MAF sensor - an extremely easy job once the sensor plug lock mechanism is understood (pull up lock tab and then squeeze to unlock and pull plug).

As far as I can find, there is only one lambda sensor on a TDI engine. Early CR TDI self study program shows lambda sensor in the DPF housing after the turbo. CFHC 103kW TDI in my Yeti is apparently "generation 2 CR TDI" for which I can find no self study program describing specific improvements. Lambda sensor between intake manifold and turbo probably has better thermal stability and longer life. Bosch says most likely reason for lambda sensor failure is poisoning by chemicals in fuel additives. Premium fuels have according to the fuel companies more additives, which in turn may reduce the life of the lambda sensor.

Sorry about bad link. Hope this one is better. This is the most helpful of all the Bosch documents I have read - start at page A10. http://aa-bosch-ecat-ap.resource.bosch.com/sao_ecat/downloads/Bosch%20Australia%20Oxygen%20Sensor%20Catalogue%202013.pdf Specifically: Calibration resistor is built into the plug - don't mess with it. Sensor voltage test voltmeter or oscilloscope with engine running is the most likely to be helpful - access to connectors is extremely difficult though. Service life of planar sensors is quoted at 160,000km. Can't yet find specific number for diesel, suspect it to be lower. Reduced output from sensor implies oxygen level closer to atmospheric (i.e.lean), resulting in compensation to rich mixture and worse fuel consumption. In my Yeti, the obvious symptoms were more frequent DPF regen and increased fuel consumption. So have replaced the oxygen sensor with the Bosch aftermarket one. Tips: 1. On my Yeti, the exhaust manifold to turbo clamp was positioned with allen bolt head to rear close to the sensor. Really should be repositioned with clamp at the front the bolt head pointing up. As it was, it obstructed access to the oxygen sensor by all tools and needed to be loosened and pried free at top front. 2. 22mm flare nut wrench would probably work fine. I bought a cheap oxygen sensor open sided 6 point short socket with outrigger and a long open sided 12 point oxygen sensor socket. Both worked ok. 3. Study the firewall cable mounting clips to figure how to release without breaking, since the Bosch supplied replacements are *not* the same. Difficult to both see and access. One had a clip arrangement similar to the Bosch replacement but length of standoff is short. Other has a ratchet to release with small screwdriver. 4. Oxygen sensor plug has to be pried forward in its clip - access the gap from below. 5. Oxygen sensor socket has a pry hole in the side to release the catch. Fuel consumption now is reporting better than *ever* on maxidot.

Bosch diagnostic info on lambda sensors is worth a read. Specifically says not to clean the outside with high pressure water cleaner. Presume same applies to inside... https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CAMQw7AJahcKEwjY3927mZH7AhUAAAAAHQAAAAAQAg&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.boschaftermarket.com%2Fxrm%2Fmedia%2Fimages%2Fcountry_specific%2Fsg%2Fservices_and_support_6%2Fdownloads_18%2Flambda_sensors.pdf&psig=AOvVaw3olYHsTaUNKm5Ke74txnZX&ust=1667536972646052 NOTE: Service manual says to coat new sensor threads with VW antiseize. But Bosch says oxygen sensors are pre-coated with antiseize compound. (Bosch sensor on order.)

BTW the terminal numbers are from DIN 72552 - plenty of sources on the web. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/DIN_72552

“Terminal 30 right” is not fuse 30, so i discovered. J519 controller is not happy with low supply voltage. Terminal 30 is all circuits hard wired to battery. Manual refers to terminal 30a and 30g. But not sure what those are exactly. google terminal 30 right vcds and ross-tech will tell exactly what it is and the fault with pic of burned fuse terminal. Poor connection to Fuse SB16 in engine bay. Mine is working with new fuse and CRC-2/26. See how long. Still reading to see if fuse terminal can be got to or one day needs new fuse box B because all the bits are custom formed - what the pictures suggest. Moral. Ignore the maxidot messages. Use vcds. Clear all fault codes. See whats left on rescan. Google the fault. Could have been a 5 min fix. Took days and detour past front indicator replacement.

Definitely very challenging, but not impossible. The description and pictures of how to remove the bumper makes it look easier than it is. 1. To get to the 2 bolts between the front fender and bumper requires removal of most of the 18 screws attaching the front wheel well liner. 2. The push pin expanding plastic rivets top and bottom of the bumper are extremely difficult to remove - requires lubricant since the plastic is almost welded together. Be prepared to acquire spares or use alternative fixing methods. I did manage to get the four top ones out without damage. The three bottom ones ended up with mangled heads but did come out. 3. The aperture to access the indicator lamp is part of the original housing moulding with a thin part around the edge where it is intended to be removed. Headlight alignment shouldn't be a major issue. The screws on the outside top and bottom are set to align the headlamp with the bodywork to the same clearance as the original. Headlight aiming is internal to the headlight assembly. Worst case scenario, the old fashioned headlight aiming method requires little equipment - a wall, about 5-10 metres and chalk. Mark the main beam center or dipped beam to with vehicle close to wall. Back up. There is a specification of how much the lights should aim slightly down with distance. Can't remember the figure. Having gotten into the headlight assembly, the indicator lamp is still functional. Still chasing the electrical gremlin that still says nearly all the bulbs front right and left rear need checking when I have tested them all and replaced a few that were blown or burned looking. Anyone know the price of the lamp plus cover?? Part number??