FatblokeVRS

I had the same issue. I used these LED bulbs and they were better. You do get an error on the dash though but you can get inline connectors to fix that. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07XDQQRHC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Check for feathering on the inside edges of the tyres. There was an issue several years back with alignment settings that caused the rear tyres to scrub causing droning. We had this on our VRS. Skoda put out new geometry settings and we haven't had an issue since. I know you said the front but worth checking.

I use 16" wheels with 205x55x16 winter tyres over the winter. Fit fine on the VRS. Plenty clearance with the standard calipers etc.

It seems they have used my photo without permission or acknowledgement. The wheel arch should move enough to get into the siren but you may need to remove some of the panel clips. It's behind a metal box/cover that's held in with a pop rivet if I remember correctly. Just drill the pop rivet out. You can replace it with a self tapper screw. Not sure about the fuse. Cheers Dave

https://youtu.be/7BFLJhW8azI

I think that can be caused by a dirty throttle body. Easy enough to remove and clean it. Worth cleaning the EGR valve too. Just did both on my VRS. Brake cleaner was OK but carb cleaner seemed stronger and really cleaned them aided by an old toothbrush.

The steering wheel / coil light etc can stay on if the battery had died or been disconnected. Usually they will go off after vehicle is driven 100 yards or so or steering is turned lock to lock. Totally normal.

Need to get mine done too. Who repaired it?

I change the oil on the VRS and Audi every 5000 miles so oil is used quite quickly. Wow, just noticed the cost has gone up from £60 to £80 in just a few days.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303124417772?epid=22033524677&hash=item46939f8cec:g:eBcAAOSw2CFcsHEl&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4GVVlWV1bhbyi844Rs1wE5gcaHRH0NE1OjjyC2qhl77TJi4PeOyw70QbMSgdhsXqoXcsA0LCwfgRG5%2FnjC5klpHjzDYxAsPYC9pQNVbQ%2B8iJl6nm5QDeDLLCQtHEiKZTZ8xxQXotKIGLxjwrTHr6En%2Bjuj7mKX44ddHVy4uXFP%2B9B5du3yx4KgmtTsu5CeD4zH1lpRrKt%2B0l58HakemafhKGmYRTlBI6zbAAgtAB8ATRs72hwv4UisqkAmM0OJBOAtgm1TBjOwa3F%2BzoaFqpZwxDSut5HLoNfuqBNCAxOIKO|tkp%3ABFBMjM3lms5h

If its been used regularly from a low mileage it may be OK but if its not, it could dislodge sludge / carbon that could block oilways, cause leaks etc. Modern full synth is loaded with cleaning agents so best to use correct spec oil and change it and the filter regularly. Also give it a thrashing now and then to get the oil moving around and picking up the contaminants especially just before an oil change.

I just don't want to feck injectors or pump.

Got the H&R ‐50 Cup Kit on ours. It is quite firm but handles well and much better to drive than standard. Lowered it about 35mm all round.

Nobody got any info on this? Do I just connect the diesel pipes back up and it should start or do I need to do something to prime etc?

Hi All I have been getting the manifold flaps error for a while. The error light is now staying on and I want to try the wee metal bracket on the manifold to see if that fixes the issue. I also need to replace the thermostat. I need to remove the manifold to fit the bracket and hopefully gain access to change the thermostat. I have looked at many posts and pages and some videos of fixes on different vehicles but I couldn't find any really good how tos or videos for removing and refitting the plastic manifold specifically from the Octavia mk2 diesel CEGA from start to finish. For example, I am not sure about disconnecting high pressure fuel lines or does the fuel system need primed once they are connected back up etc. Is there anything out there that can help with the manifold and thermostat? Cheers Dave