blouis79

(obviously the brain was a bit foggy and clearly the lambda sensor is on the exhaust side.) So after a few more tanks of diesel and injector cleaner, real fuel consumption is still high. Cooling fan is still running on presumed turbo timer on switch off. New MAF sensor seems to have fixed it and Yeti appears to behave like normal. Bosch 0281002956 is a one piece unit made in Germany. Maxidot seems to continue to lie at the moment, with reported fuel consumption way lower than real. Still can't find what data feeds the fuel consumption figure. If the computer used fuel input and km travelled, then the number should be close to real. I read that hot-film MAF sensors tend to cause rich running at idle and lean at high RPM. I couldn't find any clues in VCDS that the MAF sensor was misbehaving. Can't find an injector offset out of range. I did try unplugging to see if connector corrosion might be a cause. Later got a random fault in the middle of gearchange off throttle with clutch disengaged, the engine ran up to redline then back to normal. VCDS reported no faults after the fact. Not sure what could cause that. Any ideas???? Curiously there is contamination of scant oily residue in the intake ducting which presumably comes from the vacuum hose upstream of the MAF sensor. Air box after air filter is spotless. This presumably is the source of sensor contamination. Looks like the first option for next time fuel consumption runs high is to change the MAF sensor - an extremely easy job once the sensor plug lock mechanism is understood (pull up lock tab and then squeeze to unlock and pull plug).

As far as I can find, there is only one lambda sensor on a TDI engine. Early CR TDI self study program shows lambda sensor in the DPF housing after the turbo. CFHC 103kW TDI in my Yeti is apparently "generation 2 CR TDI" for which I can find no self study program describing specific improvements. Lambda sensor between intake manifold and turbo probably has better thermal stability and longer life. Bosch says most likely reason for lambda sensor failure is poisoning by chemicals in fuel additives. Premium fuels have according to the fuel companies more additives, which in turn may reduce the life of the lambda sensor.

Sorry about bad link. Hope this one is better. This is the most helpful of all the Bosch documents I have read - start at page A10. http://aa-bosch-ecat-ap.resource.bosch.com/sao_ecat/downloads/Bosch%20Australia%20Oxygen%20Sensor%20Catalogue%202013.pdf Specifically: Calibration resistor is built into the plug - don't mess with it. Sensor voltage test voltmeter or oscilloscope with engine running is the most likely to be helpful - access to connectors is extremely difficult though. Service life of planar sensors is quoted at 160,000km. Can't yet find specific number for diesel, suspect it to be lower. Reduced output from sensor implies oxygen level closer to atmospheric (i.e.lean), resulting in compensation to rich mixture and worse fuel consumption. In my Yeti, the obvious symptoms were more frequent DPF regen and increased fuel consumption. So have replaced the oxygen sensor with the Bosch aftermarket one. Tips: 1. On my Yeti, the exhaust manifold to turbo clamp was positioned with allen bolt head to rear close to the sensor. Really should be repositioned with clamp at the front the bolt head pointing up. As it was, it obstructed access to the oxygen sensor by all tools and needed to be loosened and pried free at top front. 2. 22mm flare nut wrench would probably work fine. I bought a cheap oxygen sensor open sided 6 point short socket with outrigger and a long open sided 12 point oxygen sensor socket. Both worked ok. 3. Study the firewall cable mounting clips to figure how to release without breaking, since the Bosch supplied replacements are *not* the same. Difficult to both see and access. One had a clip arrangement similar to the Bosch replacement but length of standoff is short. Other has a ratchet to release with small screwdriver. 4. Oxygen sensor plug has to be pried forward in its clip - access the gap from below. 5. Oxygen sensor socket has a pry hole in the side to release the catch. Fuel consumption now is reporting better than *ever* on maxidot.

Bosch diagnostic info on lambda sensors is worth a read. Specifically says not to clean the outside with high pressure water cleaner. Presume same applies to inside... https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CAMQw7AJahcKEwjY3927mZH7AhUAAAAAHQAAAAAQAg&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.boschaftermarket.com%2Fxrm%2Fmedia%2Fimages%2Fcountry_specific%2Fsg%2Fservices_and_support_6%2Fdownloads_18%2Flambda_sensors.pdf&psig=AOvVaw3olYHsTaUNKm5Ke74txnZX&ust=1667536972646052 NOTE: Service manual says to coat new sensor threads with VW antiseize. But Bosch says oxygen sensors are pre-coated with antiseize compound. (Bosch sensor on order.)

BTW the terminal numbers are from DIN 72552 - plenty of sources on the web. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/DIN_72552

“Terminal 30 right” is not fuse 30, so i discovered. J519 controller is not happy with low supply voltage. Terminal 30 is all circuits hard wired to battery. Manual refers to terminal 30a and 30g. But not sure what those are exactly. google terminal 30 right vcds and ross-tech will tell exactly what it is and the fault with pic of burned fuse terminal. Poor connection to Fuse SB16 in engine bay. Mine is working with new fuse and CRC-2/26. See how long. Still reading to see if fuse terminal can be got to or one day needs new fuse box B because all the bits are custom formed - what the pictures suggest. Moral. Ignore the maxidot messages. Use vcds. Clear all fault codes. See whats left on rescan. Google the fault. Could have been a 5 min fix. Took days and detour past front indicator replacement.

Definitely very challenging, but not impossible. The description and pictures of how to remove the bumper makes it look easier than it is. 1. To get to the 2 bolts between the front fender and bumper requires removal of most of the 18 screws attaching the front wheel well liner. 2. The push pin expanding plastic rivets top and bottom of the bumper are extremely difficult to remove - requires lubricant since the plastic is almost welded together. Be prepared to acquire spares or use alternative fixing methods. I did manage to get the four top ones out without damage. The three bottom ones ended up with mangled heads but did come out. 3. The aperture to access the indicator lamp is part of the original housing moulding with a thin part around the edge where it is intended to be removed. Headlight alignment shouldn't be a major issue. The screws on the outside top and bottom are set to align the headlamp with the bodywork to the same clearance as the original. Headlight aiming is internal to the headlight assembly. Worst case scenario, the old fashioned headlight aiming method requires little equipment - a wall, about 5-10 metres and chalk. Mark the main beam center or dipped beam to with vehicle close to wall. Back up. There is a specification of how much the lights should aim slightly down with distance. Can't remember the figure. Having gotten into the headlight assembly, the indicator lamp is still functional. Still chasing the electrical gremlin that still says nearly all the bulbs front right and left rear need checking when I have tested them all and replaced a few that were blown or burned looking. Anyone know the price of the lamp plus cover?? Part number??

My hard drive failed - presume corruption. Wnet into german mode and didn't function. Planning on changing to SSD, but ran into issues. Firmware update CD re-initialised orignal HDD and still working fine for several months. Proprietary file system setup seems near impossible to fix with usual third party tools.

Having just done this.... Bottom parts I pried with fingers. Top part clips seem much more resistant to this. Poked a credit card in the gap between the Columbus and top part of fascia one on each side and top unclips fairly easily.

My Yeti came with Dunlop SP Sport 01 made in Germany. Best OE tires I have had to date, for dry grip, wet grip, low noise. Most miles on motorway commute. Just replaced 4 at about 78,000km. Have otherwise used Falken for decades after a friend recommended them and I've had no good reason to change. Was planning to replace the Dunlops with Falken ZE914 eco. Tyre guy suggested Dunlop SP Sport 050 plus. A bit more reading discovers the SP Sport 050 plus was designed as Dunlop's premium tyre for European import cars. Made in Japan, wheres Falkens I've had have come from Thailand. Similar price to the Falkens and very similar design and technology. Not surprising since Ohtsu making Falken was subsumed back into Sumitomo Rubber and Dunlop outside USA is also owned by Sumitomo. Tyre placard says the SP Sport 050 plus should wear a bit faster than the SP Sport 01. Rubber:void ratio suggests wet grip should be better. Tread design is rather similar to Contis, without the Conti pricetag. I figure most of tyre performance can be inferred by looking at the tread design. Read a magazine article about it years ago, which seems on the money. Silica is important for wet grip and probably most tyres these days have silica compounds. Softness as measured by treadwear rating on tire placard indicates grip and cost. Block size indicates dry performance (with slick as ultimate) - large circumferential block dimensions are good for braking, large transverse block dimensions are good for cornering. Rubber:void ratio indicates water clearance (inverse). Transverse groove elements make noise as the edge hits the road. Fussy complicated shapes compromise performance.

My Yeti is a little different from pic. Mirror fell off on a hot day - adhesive to metal baseplate had just completely detached. Has had windscreen replaced a few years ago, so presume the installer has to transfer the baseplate from old to new screen??? My brother's new Up had the large laser/mirror housing drop off. Presume a similar problem with adhesive and heat not coping with the differential thermal expansion. So i decided not to use proper mirror adhesive if it's going to fail on a large size retaining plate. Was probably designed for the non-rain sensor small plates with less thermal expansion. Retaining plate shape was not well matched to the glass, so I resurfaced with wet/dry. So far I "temporarily" attached the mirror with 3m VHB tape (RP45) + cure time in warm car. It's still on after a day in the sun and the load of the sensor springs. When it falls off, I'm going to try SikaFlex 252 and use some small bits of VHB tape for spacing and holding while the Sika cures. Theoretically, the few cm2 of VHB tape can hold 60kg in tension. 3M recommends 60cm2/kg of ongoing load because of creep. Metal pedestal (5) slides up onto retaining plate (8). Wasn't easy to slide off without the retaining plate attached to anything. Very tight and no good lever points to get it moving. Plus a small bump on the pedestal that catches in a groove on each side of the plate when it's fully on. Maybe a bash with a soft faced hammer would have worked best. I levered the parts apart and the pedestal springs released (as designed to in an accident). Was easy to slide back on. Not shown in the manual is a plastic clip that holds the rain sensor in the retaining plate for assembly. Windscreen installer previously mangled the housing getting it off. Magic release point for the pedestal housing clips is the top left side of the join. Fingernail pressure in the gap works (but hard to get a finger in when the mirror is on the screen). Some tool used gently will work without marring.

Those spy shots and others seem to show the same angular front bumper detail as the new Octavia. Presume it will go with an angular bonnet. Hope it doesn't end up looking like a dog's breakfast with the curves on the body panels. http://indianautosblog.com/2013/05/2014-skoda-yeti-facelift-spied-in-china-77591

I used Sikaflex 227 to stick on the super skoda b pillar covers. Sika products seem pretty reliable.

I like driving on tarmac round corners. Love the 17s and the 50 profile dunlop sport 01s they came with. No complaints from passengers about ride quality. Our Polo on 50 profile tyres is more jiggly but probably fixable with aftermarket dampers. Main justification for 16s would be to get better off road tyres.

According to the Yeti Owner's manual P14, the simple MFD "Multi-functional indicator (onboard computer)" also displays oil temperature. Displays nothing (three dashes) if temp is below 50degC.

You can enable that via the maxidot menu without VCDS.

Noticed vibration transmitted from presumably the driveshaft through to the centre armrest. Seems speed related esp on motorway and not engine related (no change in neutral). It's not really severe but definitely easily noticed. Anyone else noticed this?

Doesn't Skoda like being "green"? Seems to be swimming against the eco-tide. I presume the new badge is a response to the badge worm problem.

Well even though the engine isn't hot, maybe the turbo is hot from your vigorous driving style : ). Check it out.

Just curious to know how people set up their seats when they have so many adjustments. Certainly the Yeti seat can cause problems if the seat back is too upright and the anti-whiplash head restraint pushes the head forward - but a simple recline easily fixes it. Did a driver training course run by some racing drivers, who changed my old-fashioned perspective on seat adjusting. They suggested: 1. adjusting the seat height low to force the eyeline a bit higher into the distance and to lower the centre of gravity 2. sliding the seat bottom forward to keep the knees more bent and using them for lateral bracing when cornering, if the seat is tilt adjustable, tilting it more to keep the backside in 3. then one has to recline the seat a bit more to compensate, but that's probably a good thing for back support esp for people with troublesome backs where too much lumbar support is probably bad for the worn lumbar facet joints 4. adjusting the steering wheel high, also to force the eyeline higher into the distance 5. holding the steering wheel at quarter to three is especially advantageous since airbags are the norm because forearm fractures are common from airbag deployment I note these recommendations are almost opposite to what the driving ergonomic "experts" are saying eg http://drivingergonomics.lboro.ac.uk/health.html, but they actually make more sense to me in every way. They are also consistent with computer workstation ergonomic guidelines which suggest a reclined position with a high eyeline is good for extended computer use (usually much longer hours than driving for most people who use computers - us).

A few more photos here. http://www.autoblog.com/2012/05/29/skodas-popular-yeti-headed-for-a-facelift/ I agree the lower grille looks wider - the ? single horizontal bar on the lower grille looks longer than existing. So maybe the front looks a bit more integrated? Would love to see the full height tail lamps of the concept Yeti.

Cool. My Yeti has hill hold as standard. Footbrake stays on for about 2 seconds on (IIRC) >3% hill. Auto Lock/Unlock is on the Maxidot, but the owner's manual doesn't say what it auto unlock actually does. Would like to be able to adjust auto light sensitivity - needs to generally turn off sooner but turn on when driving away from setting sun for safety and turn on in rain. (Yet to get a VCDS, but planning to....)

Not sure the expansion volume is needed for diesel. Manal is the same for diesel and petrol variants. Have done "ventectomy" on Polo TDI, with no issues in 3 years routinely putting in 52L into "45L" tank. Getting 50-54L into Yeti 60L tank never down to zero on computer range.

Looking at my car, it looks like the screw goes from the inside of the plastic panel and the peg contains a female threaded metal bush. Because the recess is very deep, looks to need a long screw + cylindrical spacer + lateral support in the recess. Looking good so far!

One could easily organise the strips of mounting tape to have gaps that miss the heater wires. Otherwise you can look at Skoda Erwin for the official shop manuals. It is recommended to buy a day's worth and print everything for you car.