gidi19

Mileage is currently 150,000 I've only owned the car for a few months I've given it a service using genuine service parts from TPS. The dye is from after running the car. Can anyone suggest a good mechanic. I'm based in Leicester,don't mind travelling. The car runs fine, no smoke, no loss of power. I've had a mechanic have a look at it who said the oils seems to be leaking towards the back of the engine and he suggested replacing the rocker cover gasket,which hasn't solved the problem.

It's been a while. Still have a problem with the oil leak. I've replaced the rocker cover gasket and seals. I've had the DPF and EGR deleted. Car is still loosing oil. There are no signs of oil leak on the driveway, so can only assume it's happening whilst it's being driven. Car isn't burning any oil, no signs of it on the exhaust. Is there anything else I can check before I throw in the towel.

Hi, Can you please send a link to a youtube video? I'm looking at removing my EGR and blanking it. Thanks

Does it give out any heat? Hot or cold? Just asking, can you control the heat in the back from the back heat control? Mine is a 2016 model and it has heating control at the back

Hi all, Mine also has a coolant leak. One thing I've come across is the egr intercooler seal can start leaking over time. I've been thinking of blanking my EGr but it might be worth checking in and around that area for coolant residue.

I probably did spill some, but cleaned it out as best as possible. I've had the check oil light come on twice in one month, each time having to be topped up. I've left the bottom cover off, so see if I can find any oil marks on driveway. No oil marks, so i'm assuming it's loosing oil when being driven.

Changing the oil cap has not resolved the issue. car is still loosing oil

Hi all, Skoda 2.0 tdi Laurin and Klement DSG 2016 plate. Car has a small oil leak. I've put some oil leak detector in the system and taken for a long drive. The oil leak seems to be mostly concentrated on the left side of the engine when you look at it from the outside. I've taken the bottom tray off as well as the cover on the bottom sump. Both were drenched in oil. When flashing the UV light the only place I can find a leak is from the area where you fill the oil in. I've attached a picture. My question is, is this common and if so what part do I need to replace. Is it just the oil cap? Just feel like I'm missing something. I've checked underneath the car and can't find any leaks identified by the dye.

Hi all. Just an update. Changing the heater matrix was a very fiddly job,but finally succeeded and happy to say heat has returned to both sides. Also had an issue with the ACC and on inspection turned out to be a broken bracket. Replaced the bracket and initially was throwing an incorrect position sensor code but driving to work and back it suddenly sorted it self out. Next job to give it a service and maybe attempt to replace the gearbox oil.

Figured it out, N90765301 O ring must have fell out. Above is the part number for anyone who needs it

Here's two more pics of inside of the pipe

The third pic is what came out the pipe. It wont stop leaking

Hi all, Could really do with some help. Tried to flush the system out again today. unfortunately there is a leak on one of the intercooler/radiator hoses. Upon a closer look it seems like I might have lost the rubber seal, if one existed. Or the current seal is no longer working. I've tried for an hour to try sort it out, but have had no luck. Does anyone know if the larger intercooler/radiator hose has a seal/gasket and if so where can I source one. Going to try ring TPS tomorrow and see if one is available.

Just an update. Had a look inside the header tank and even though coolant was pink,it was full of gunk. So I took the header tank out. Started to wash it under the sink and half hour later there was still gunk coming out. At this point I can say that most probably the whole system is contaminated and full of corrosion. I gave it a partial flush and tried cleaning out as much out as possible. Plan going forward is to give it a flush everyday for a week,trying to remove as much gunk as possible. And when it seems like it's improved to replace the heater matrix. Some points if anyone can help. I've read putting in wymms cleaner to try clean the corrosion out helps? Is it worth replacing the radiator? Best way to clean the heater matrix pipes? I've seen videos of people just sticking a water hose and flushing it out. Any other advice would be appreciated. Thanks

Hi, This is a new car I bought. So I don't know the history behind it. Was bought from Auction with no known faults. No point trying to get anything from auction place What do you mean by take the header tank of? Is this to check if it has any air trapped in the system. I'm planning on doing a partial flush on it tomorrow, see if it helps. I'll try re-calibrating with VCDS

VCDS showing the following As a test I took the plastic spigit thing out and tried opening anb closing the flap manually. I can close and open the inside airvent so the flap motor is definitely working. That leaves me with checking the interior temp sensor. But the videos I've seen indicate if the temp sensor was malfunctioning then it would be at a higher degrees and the car would compensate but glowing cold air out on one side. This does not seem to apply here as it is correctly showing that it is blowing out cold air. Is there anything glaring I'm missing the the VCDS pic. Next step is going to be to try doing a coolant flush and maybe try flush the heater matrix out, depending on how easy it is to access from the engine bay. There seems to be a lot of guides on Octavias, but not many ok Superbs.

Does anyone know how to access the interior temperature sensor on the driver side? I want to check that before replacing heater matrix

I thought the flap motor might be an issue so I looked underneath the steering wheel and I could see the motor flap. I then turned the heating from hot to cold and could see and feel the motor moving up and down. So definately isn't the motor being stuck.

Hi, I've tried the above procedure. Did not work for me. Gut feeling is having to replace the heater matrix, but people are saying it will cost in the region of £1000. I've changed a heater matrix before on my octavia mk 2 so do have some experience. Only thing that i'm still trying to figure out is how to take the glove box off without removing the infotainment.

I've done a VCDS scan and no error codes are present. Is it easy to check the temp sensor? It does have dual air con

Hi all. Skoda superb 2.0 TDI 2016 plate. Has a fault where the driver side does not give out any hot air. The passenger side and rear heating does. I've googled the symptoms and the most likely culprit is the silicat bag bursting causing the heater matrix to block. However I've checked the coolant tank and mine doesn't say silicat on it. The coolant also looks pink. So I'm confused. I've attached pic of coolant tank. I've tried doing the reset trick but no luck.

Finally figured it out. The slave cylinder bleed nipple is actually stopping the gear selector from going in to reverse. The slave cylinder was a Sach after market part. Comparing the original to the Sach part I can see the bleed nipple location is different. It's only by a few centimetres but that's my problem. Of to buy a new slave cylinder. Will take pics and upload later.

Skoda octavia 1.9 tdi manual. Was driving home and realised the pedal was getting stuck half way up. Had to lift pedal up with foot. Managed to get home, but the next day symptoms got worse. Sometimes the clutch pedal would come up half way, but when I pressed the pedal in again the car would still be in gear and carry on moving. Thinking it was a hydraulic pressure issue I changed the clutch slave cylinder. Problem was still present so decided to change the master clutch cylinder too. Now the original problem has gone away but the problem is I cannot get the car into reverse. All other gears work. Tried resetting gear linkages, greased up the lever, checked for any obvious signs but no luck. I finally tried moving the gear selector by hand manually and it goes in to all gears but when trying to push it into reverse it feels like its hitting something and wont go In to reverse. Been researching this all night and finally willing to accept defeat. Last thoughts are either car needs new clutch or something gone horribly wrong with gear box.

Yes, For several hours. Can't find any vids for the Cega engine. Not even on Google. At this point im starting to think the engine doesn't have the wiring loom. Any1?

Hi All, My car has been a complete pain recently. Car has developed a rough idle 1st thing in the morning. Glow plug light comes on and goes into limp mode. Turn the car on and off and the problem goes away and drives like normal for the rest of the day. I want to replace the injector wiring loom but cannot find a guide for it. All the guides seem to be for a 1.9 pd engine Can someone please tell me how to replace the wiring loom or where I can even locate it. Looking at the engine I cannot see where it might be located. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks