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mrhappy

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Everything posted by mrhappy

  1. I have always run low on the range but don't tend to let it get to zero! Anyway, this was during lockdown so the car hadn't been/wasn't going anywhere for a while
  2. It works on my 2008 pre-facelift vRS with FL Maxidot. (Don't know if this is useful...): Engine Part #: 03L906022GB Coding: 72 (decimal) Instrument cluster Part #: 1Z0920943M Coding: 710A01 (hex) Central electronics Part #: 3C8937049E Coding: A5880F230004140F43110D000000000080197F073200000C000000000000 (hex) Body/convenience system Part #: 1K0959433BT Coding: 98801A085283007F3F048D0D4008DF96907CA0 (hex) CAN network gateway Part #: 1K0907530Q Coding: E9807F060002022303 (hex) Edit: I didn't enable it myself. I don't know exactly what my VCDS friend did. I seem to remember it took a few ignition cycles but it stuck thereafter. Caveat: I can't see the images at the start of the thread. I'm just assuming you're on about the graphic in the bottom left of the display when cruise is set.
  3. The cable I ran in broke in less than a year due to flexing. Maybe a poor quality cable, maybe I left it too tight. Maybe it will always break over time. Either way, it's a headache! Wireless is working fine for me. I shoved the transmitter up the side of the tailgate alongside the window inside some pipe lagging for protection, and stuck the receiver behind the ash tray in the dash.
  4. I ran the composite video from the tailgate to the left side of the car body and along the roof line. drop the headliner slightly at each end by removing the A and C pillar trim and feed a stiff wire along the roof from back to front. You can then use this to draw your wires/cables through. My video cable has since broken in the tailgate rubber gaitor... so I've gone back to wireless
  5. My car is a pre-facelift, with FL Maxidot instrument cluster. These car settings aren't available in the menu on the Maxidot, I think because it has CECM, not BCM. I guess it's enabled on the car though and I would need VCDS to disable it.
  6. I can confirm that this no difference between pFL and FL mirror wiring and it really was a case of plug and play directly into the door modules. I can't believe I didn't spot this! Thanks for all your help chaps. @uniteunion, it turns out it took another funny turn, and my swap didn't involve any cutting and splicing. For future reference and for the benefit of others, I reckon you could separate the mirror loom from the main door loom of a pre-facelift, so that you didn't have to do any surgery. There's one small nuance, which I thin existed with my previous mirrors, and that is that when I adjust the driver mirror, the passenger mirror adjusts too, but I can adjust the passenger mirror on its own. Is this normal behaviour, or is there a fault somewhere? I would suspect the switch is faulty.
  7. Urm.... because that would just be far too sensible and easy! 🤦‍♂️ You mean here, like this? Boy am I glad you turned up here today @Eddie-NL, I was just about to cut the wires!! 😆
  8. @uniteunion indeed it did. I think I will cut and solder the wires like you did afterall. Far less hassle, especially now you've done such a nice diagram, thank you! There are two motor +ve and only one -ve. Is there one +ve for up/down and one +ve for side-to-side movement? Please can you confirm the pairing between pre-facelift and facelift, e.g. red to green and white to purple.
  9. Hi @langers2k I can confirm the pFL plug part number is 3B0972726. Socket is 3B0972736. The part number of the facelift plug is 1K0972926 I think. Following the pattern, there might be a socket ending 36? I would need wires with terminals for both types. Wouldn't know where to buy these. Here's a photo...
  10. Oh! I think this might scupper my plans. I've got a pre-facelift and trying to fit facelift mirrors - so the opposite to what you're doing. I hadn't understood that the cables were longer because the facelift mirrors connect directly to the door module. 🙈 I was hoping to get hold of the socket (door side) from a facelift and another pre-facelift plug to make an adapter. See photos attached. I think my only option now is to cut both and join the pre-facelift plug to the facelift mirror. Which means I'll only be able to sell my pre-facelift mirrors to someone wanting to 'downgrade' 😟
  11. @uniteunion I mean to say, do both side mirrors work, function correctly?
  12. I guess mine might be aftermarket glass. Shame. I like the blue tint. Would be very grateful for a diagram. I assume they are electrically the same then, just with different connectors? That's good to hear. In that case I'm going to try and source a spare set of connectors from a breakers and make a short adapter loom. Good work fella 👍
  13. Have you got any further with this? I've just bought a pair of facelift mirrors, to swap for my pre-facelift, and found that the connectors are different too. Both my sets are vRS spec - non-folding, non-memory. I have only compared the passenger side and like you said the pre-facelift mirror has 7 wires (versus 6 on the facelift). However, if you look carefully two wires are connected to the same pin (black and brown = ground), thus effectively only 6 wires. I thought of two options: Open them up and try to swap the innards over between the housings. I haven't looked, but I'm not hopeful. Make an adapter loom between the facelift plug and prefacelift socket in the door. For option 2, I would need to match the different coloured wires to the correct function, so a wiring diagram would be useful unless you've managed to pair each wire. In your exploration so far, I'd be interested to hear whether you think option 2 is feasible? It might work both ways?! P.S. Just out of curiosity, is the mirror glass on your facelift mirrors blue tinted? My pre-facelift are, but the facelift aren't
  14. I have a 58 plate vRS CR TDI which does not have parking sensors, so I would like to retrofit them. Or rather, my wife would like them fitted! I'm only bothered about having rear sensors, though if it's not much more effort to fit them at the front, I will. I know that, at the rear, the sensors (x4) connect to a control module behind the nearside wheel arch. I also know that my car does not have the wiring in place on the car body to connect the controller to. Please can someone tell me if you can get the loom separately, or if it needs separating from the main loom running down the nearside of the car? Where does it connect to at the front - CECM or fuse box? What (other) parts do I need to procure for the install, by part number, please? Is it possible or more complicated to fit optical parking sensors rather than standard ones? Will they need coding in? Urm..,anything else I need to ask? 😄 Thanks!

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