mrhappy

For the benefit of other people: The 'long pedal' (1) was purely a symptom of a badly unevenly worn disk on the inside drivers side. It was overlooked (by myself) because all other front disk surfaces and pad thicknesses looked fine. Initial thoughts were that the caliper sliders were seized or binding, but as I replaced the calipers two years ago these turned out to be very free and smooth, so the uneven wear was probably just unfortunate dirt etc. trapped between disk and pad. The dangerous ABS behaviour (2) was down to two brakes lines on the pump unit being incorrectly fitted when it was replaced a few year ago. The right and left lines were plumbed into the opposite ports. The effect of this is that when the ABS detects one wheel locking it will modulate pressure to the wrong wheel, thus causing an error loop that keeps both wheels locked until speed = 0. The mechanic/garage that fitted it is no longer trading so this was rectified by another at some expense, which is rather annoying. It took me this long to notice because I haven't had the need to emergency brake, fortunately. I have new front brakes and properly behaving ABS now, so all is well. It's just a shame the clutch slave cylinder has failed on my T5.1 now 😭

@AVHreplica I've scanned using Carista and there are no related faults. When getting into a hard lock stop, there is NO ABS light, ESP light or other visual indication of anything happening - it's like the car doesn't know about it

Thanks for your replies. @MicMac, I'm well aware of the severity of the potentially consequences. The issues have only properly come to light today, so I will get it sorted ASAP. I just like to be informed. @J.R. I had the infamous G201 brake pressure sensor fault a few years ago, and replaced the ABS module with a second hand unit. I suspect the 'new' module is at fault. The brakes work fine under normal driving, but the not releasing is very scary indeed. I've checked for external fluid leaks and can't see any sign, but the effect of the G201 problem is an internal leak in the ABS, as I understand it.

Two worrying problems have recently materialised with my brakes, which would have disastrous consequences if I wasn't now expecting them and I don't get it sorted soon. 1) One two occasions in the last few weeks on long motorway drives I have had no braking at all. This happens after a fair length of time travelling at motorway speeds, not needing to use the brakes and it's been raining persistently. The pedal goes right down to the floor with almost no braking effort. Pedal feel will come back only after pumping the brakes quite hard, It will deteriorate again if I continue cruising at speed. Under normal urban and rural driving the brakes are fine. At idle, the pedal is firm but gradually sinks. With the engine off, the pedal is rock solid, so I'm certain there isn't a hydraulic fluid leak. 2) When I perform a hard emergency brake, the wheels will lock up and the ABS keeps them locked until the car is brought to a dead stop. I cannot stop braking and drive out of this situation, the engine fights the brakes but the brakes win, permanently. There is NO ABS action when this happens - the wheels lock up firm. There is not sign of ABS or ESP kicking in on the dash - and no faults registered on the car. This has happened to me once unexpectedly, but I have tested this out safely since and it is repeatable. Does anyone have any ideas what might cause either of these too malfunctions, or whether they can be related? Many thanks in advance.

No it originally didn't have Maxidot, and the option was available through VCDS. I have retrofitted a facelift Maxidot, but because of the previous generation CECM it doesn't show many of the options would would normally see on a FL car with BCM.

So I fitted the 034 insert yesterday. I'm happy to report it has exceeded my expectarions. The Powerflex (red) insert transmitted an unbearable.about of noise and vibration into the cabin, particularly on starting, idle, low revs and reverse. By comparison, the 034 is honestly barely noticeable. It doesn't plug the voids in the stock mount, thus allowing it to isolate the vibration of the engine, but it does limit the allowable movement or slop of the mount during heavy engine torque. This results in reduced engine rocking, lift and therefore better traction, response and gear change feel, without loads of noise. Under heavy load you can definitely feel vibration feedback from the engine, but it's very much damped and doesn't reverberate like the PU inserts do. This is on a diesel (so would be even better on a petrol), and I caveat that I did also fit a fresh new stock mount. It feels great, I'd highly recommend for about 90 quid. Note, that he upper part is optional an purported to increase NVH, but if it does at all it's minimal and entirely bearable.

I have both leaving home/coming home lights in my 2008 prefacelift. I believe I can set them to use either dipped beam or fog lights.

It can be done on prefacelift, I think. The pFL has a CECM not a BCM, so I'm not sure you can 'upgrade' to a BCM

Aftermarket mount or insert makes gear shifts feel super precise and positive and eliminates engine rock and reduces front end lift. They feel great, but all tend to transmit more noise and vibration to the cabin, if you can live with that. I've just removed my Powerflex insert as it was too harsh. Attempted to fit a new stock mount yesterday, and failed after snapping one of the bolts on the subframe...

Cheers. Think I found them: 30lbf for the front two and 74lbf +90° for the rear one There'll be far less NVH on your petrol compared to a diesel... I'm really hoping the 034 insert isn't as bad as the Powerflex one

Is your car a diesel? Im planning to replace the original mount on mine this weekend, and fit the 034 insert 🤞 Does anyone know the torque settings for all three dogbone/pendulum/torque arm mount bolts?

Is it really that nasty to do? I'm planning to do mine this weekend, in-situ without removing the subframe. Once the old one is removed, it doesn't look so tight that the new one can't be drifted back in, based on the videos I've seen. @NCR1, this is my original pendulum mount/torque arm/dogbone mount bush and you can see the cracking in the rubber (after 200k miles)

There are revised camber and toe.settings from VW/Skoda to alleviate the saw toothing issue, I believe. Knackered lower arm (toe) inner bushes and camber control arm bushes will contribute towards accelerated wear. It seems the inner lower arm bushes degrade the most. The eccentric bolts through these bushes tend to seize within the bush and often need cutting to drop the arm. Don't worry about applying heat - the rubber bush is sh*gged anyway. They're pressed into the arm, so a new arm is the easiest way to replace the bush. Unless you go down the polybush route; the old bushes can be removed from the original arm and polybushes easily inserted. New eccentric bolts are required. Once done, the back end will feel a whole lot better 👍

I'm not sure how it would bend, being clamped to the mount and with no space to move with the dogbone and within the subframe, but we'll see. We can write up comparative notes then, because I ordered the 034 one last Friday.

I have a new stock mount to replace my knackered one. I've just replaced all suspension and control arms bushes and had wheel alignment done, therefore I don't want to be removing the subframe if possible. Can the mount be replaced in-situ? I'm thinking I can use the old mount with a cut in it to drift in the new upper part from below, as it doesn't look to take much persuasion to press in from the videos I've watched. Then drift the lower part in afterwards. Thanks.

Hi, Has anyone got/used one? I'm insterested in how the 034Motorsport billet aluminum lower rear engine mount / dogbone mount / torque arm mount insert performs compared to other offerings such as Powerflex, Superpro etc. Specifically, does it transmit as much NVH to the car body and cabin as the PU type inserts? I have a CRTDI VRS and already have a Powerflex 704R (the red one) insert, kind of as a quick fix for a really knackered mount. The NVH is pretty bad at idle and low revs and especially in reverse. While I love the way it feels to drive, the reverberation is too much and it has to come out. 034 motorsport do a lower insert: https://www.awesomegti.com/034-motorsport/034motorsport-billet-aluminium-transmission-mount-insert-09-13/ and an upper insert, claiming that without it the unbalanced force of the engine can cause excessive bending moment in the dogbone which may result in failure (hard to believe unless highly tuned and driving like a lunatic) - see video https://www.awesomegti.com/parts/transmission/mounts/copy-of-034motorsport-billet-aluminium-mqb-upper-dogbone-mount-insert/ Thanks.

Powerflex colour code their inserts in terms of Shore hardness rating. Yellow and red are road-spec grades for petrol and diesel engines respectively. Red being the softest because diesels vibrate more. Here's a link: https://www.powerflex.co.uk/product-details/Lower+Engine+Mount+Insert+(Large)+Petrol-Tuned+Diesel/1915.html The small one is at the front of the 'dog bone' and is a solid rubber bush which is much less prone to wear than the large rear one. The rear mount is split in two parts and has voids which provide compliance and isolation of NVH from the car body. I don't believe there is a stock performance version of the mount, so Octavia vRS/Leon Cupra/Golf GTI will be the same as standard models . I have a diesel vRS. I'm interested in the Vibra Technics mount myself, but it's a lot more expensive. It has a rubber bush which will be better damped than polyurethane but is solid, so I'm not sure how it will compares for NVH. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Noise,_vibration,_and_harshness

I think people's levels of acceptability vary. I think I could put up with it, too, but I don't think the other half will. The level vibration, however, is definitely more than slight or marginal. My original mount is pretty shot and I was getting a very noticeable squeek in and outside the car when it was loaded by the torque of the engine. I used the Powerlex insert as a quick and inexpensive fix, really, for the time being, since I've just spent a bucket load on new suspension and bushes all round, and I needed the car on the road. I really like the positive feel, responsive and traction the Powerflex insert provides, but the NVH is considerable. Hence, I'd be interested in finding a 'better' insert or full mount that gives the best of both worlds. I've bought new stock mount parts and will fit those anyway. Cheers

Has anyone tried the lower engine mount insert from 034Motorsport? Is it any better than the Powerflex PU one? https://www.awesomegti.com/034-motorsport/034motorsport-billet-aluminium-transmission-mount-insert-09-13/#product-reviews I've just fitted the 704R (yes, it is definitely the red one!) and share the same experience as @radders567 and others here - the vibrations transmitted into the cabin are unacceptable for road use, especially in reverse. I think I could live with it for a while, but my other half, who drives the car a fair bit, would not. I'm also not sure how long the car will stay in one piece for! Appreciate any feedback.

@wiilydogThank you, this is exactly what I needed 😄

Hi all. I know this has been covered but I can't find the answers I need. The rear end of my estate sounds pretty crashy. The car also suffers with the old excessive wear and saw-toothing on the inner tyre edges. My indie mechanic has advised the lower inner bushes are worn but says it's not worth replacing any others. Not being that familiar with the rear suspension setup myself, or the terminology, please can someone advise what bushes AND eccentric bolts I should be buying? There appears to be lower and upper eccentric bolts, controlling both toe and camber. Which is responsible for the tyre wear? There appears to be upper for camber and lower for toe bolts: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/183200532505?fits=Car+Make%3ASkoda|Model%3AOctavia&hash=item2aa79a4819:g:6f0AAOSwZu9fgO45 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173293042153 Bushes - I'm considering poly bushes, so which ones do I need? E.g. Powerflex PFR85-510, PFR85-512 (lower spring inner, lower link inner respectively) https://powerflexstore.co.uk/skoda/octavia-mk2-1z-2004-2012/powerflex-rear-lower-spring-mount-inner-octavia-mk2-1z-2004-2012-pfr85-510/ https://powerflexstore.co.uk/skoda/octavia-mk2-1z-2004-2012/powerflex-rear-lower-link-inner-bush-octavia-mk2-1z-2004-2012-pfr85-512/ Any help to improve my understanding would be great and a definitive answer even better 😄 Many thanks!

Old thread revival, but seemed the most relevant... I'm helping a friend who has the same issue on here 2011 Yeti - no horn or MFSW functionality and airbag dash warning and fault registered in the ECU. ECU scan reveals that there is no communication with the steering wheel module, so I presume it is dead. I can't, therefore, read the part number and revision from the diagnostics. The question is, do we need to replace the part with the same revision, or will any revision do? Are there mid- / highline versions, so I would need to use the right one? We intend to find a cheaper/used part to replace, rather than spending £250+ on a new part. I can do the fitting. What coding, if any, needs to be done on once the replacement is fitted? Many thanks.

Hi @J.R. It's been a long while and I still haven't done this, although I've got all the bits sitting in a box in the garage. Are you able to advise where might be the easiest most accessible place to tap into the CAN wires, bearing in mind the loom runs down the passenger cill towards the glovebox? Cheers!

@vrslewis, what colour are/were your original wheels please? Looking at getting mine done like this. Cheers