WesBrooks

Hi all, What are the likely candidates for the car failing to control cabin temp? It can do full cool, or full heat and AC works fine. Temperature sensor? Where is it? Easy to test, or a ~£30 suck it and see? Thanks.

Ok, got it running this afternoon. After the long charge it caught a couple of times held it at 2000 for a couple of minutes and then let it idle for 5 before going for a drive. Smoked a fair bit on start up. I've noticed my battery had a five year warranty, so I've started the process of replacing it under warranty (Bosch S5), but now I'm wondering if I simply interrupted a regeneration at a bad time as it started fine twice since then. Odd. Will try for warranty battery anyway

Found the linkage coming out the bottom of the VNT Actuator in the first picture. I can touch it bit not apply any force. I'm hoping I'll be able to get it to move with a handheld vacuum tester.

...found the linkage between the turbo and the block. With the battery removed I can just about touch it but not apply any force. I'll try a hand held vacuum tester to see if I can get it to move with that.

It isn't clear if anyone has had much luck doing this with a CR engine? Not sure what the engine code is but it is a 2.0 CR170 in a 2009 Superb. As far as I can see from the top there is a electronic actuator and the linkage is concealed? So does a fix neccessatate removing this actuator first? Will this need a VAG COM setup after replacement? I believe this is a CBBB engine.

Thanks. Why has the Turbo Charger Vane Position Sensor got two different references - G500 and G581?

Currently checking the user manual for the battery charger for full charge recommendations. RING TradeCharge27

Owned this car for nearly 7 years now putting on 159,000 of the current clocked 259,000 miles. No recent servicing, only an MOT check.

Did also see a loose bolt holding the following sensor and bracket down impling the sensor has had a rough life recently. What is this sensor?

2009 Superb CR170 2WD, no dieselgate fixes. Previousy had dash warnings which raised P2563 and P2564 error codes read via a generic ELM OBD reader. These were not present at the time of the following fault, but have not been resolved. Used car earlier in the day fine three trips of 30-40min each finishing with a short motorway run. Left car for a few hours and went to go out later. Car started fine sounded rough pulling up the slighyly sloped drive and stalled. Tried to start again and nothing. No warnings or attempt to fire, just spinning over. The tank pump doesn't appear to be running but the ELM obd reports a 3000psi rail pressure while cranking. This drops to 1450 ish after cranking then drops suddenly to read 140ish but jumps between that and 156, I'm guessing that's just the reaolution of the sensor. I can see some evidence of rubbing on a sheath protecting three wire running to what I think is the electric turbo actuator centre of the engine bay between the block and the fire wall, usually covered by the engine dressing. Unplugging this raised the P2563 fault again, but I think that may not be related to the original non-starting issue. Did try a short fast charge yesterday which didn't help but will try a longer charge today as the battery is running flat. On the last attempt the OBD reader was reporting a crank speed of 150rpm. Is there a minimum speed that would cause the ECU to not fire the injectors?

Taxis are a good indicator. They were a big part of the superb choice. Hired a Camry hybrid in the states and that was nice. It may get forced on me because it helps Joe Bloggs cut their fuel bill but for my predominantly motorway miles hybrid is not a help as the engine is running in its sweet spot on the motorway. Batteries degrade too, hence why that financial joke from Renault (twist?) had you hiring the batteries rather than buying them outright. A measure to cut cug the headline cost and not have you balk when the batteries need changing! I'd love an electric car due to the torque delivery and simplicity but cost of ownership simply isn't cheaper than an economic pure IC car yet. Hydrogen fuel cells are the way to go. Some japanese companies have them on sale now, but now but not much in the way of refill stations in the UK yet. Sooner or later the goverment will be forced to acknowledge that what comes out of the tail pipe is not the full story. For the average driver swapping to a new Toyota Prius from a long serving 4.6l petrol V8 land rover would take 3 years or more to become an ecologically sound decision. But realising this would mean discouraging lease hires for less than 60 - 100k miles, which in turn would make lease hires bad business models for garages.

The trend toward petrol over diesel could limit the number of cars that are capable of achieving 300k+. Smaller engines with higher power outputs for there volume are higher stressed too, not saying they won't take higher mileage, but the emphasis on economy certainly ups the pressure on component design, material selection, and quality control. I'll wait 3 years and watch for how many come through with 100k or higher on the clock, that'll be a good indicator. I believe the cylinder deactivation came in with the MK3.

You're not kidding! 275,000 miles. Got to be business related. Assuming 30 days holiday a year that's about 240 miles a day. I mucked up and double converted it last time. Assuming that is all motorway driving it's got to be 3.7 to 4.4 hours every day!

Cheers. I can see from your car details below your name yours is about 12? I was thinking the new 1.4 petrol engines with cylinder deactivation look like a good option. Should about the same fuel costs as mine with no DPF to worry about. I want them to be at least 3 or 4 year old before I buy them which would make mine 11 or 12 too, about the time I thought might mark the start of corrosion issues.

£600 for the cam belt service, major service, and MOT.

230353 miles, 368564km. In for the water pump and cam belt service, major service including all filters, at a local independent. I'll update the price when I pick it up later today! 5000 miles late for the cam belt service. Car was playing up a little last summer by stalling and refusing to restart for a while. Thankfully seems to have cleared. Put though an expensive bottle of injector cleaner and running v-power diesel more often. No idea if either of those actually cleared it or not! Here's to the next 112500 miles! My mileage has dropped a lot. Down to more like 23500 a year now and next year will be much less due to shared parental leave from work. I predict the next cam belt service is at least 5 years a way. I expect my car will suffer corrosion issues before it mechanically fails me. Hope so any way! Other factors such as the talk of banning diesels from the centre of Liverpool are likely to drive the decision to buy a replacement before the next cam belt service.

My front wheel bearings caused something like what you describe. There was no noticeable play in the bearing when it was jacked up. It annoyed me enough (and eventually my wife spotted it too) that I replaced the wheel bearings to try and fix it. It worked for me. The noise did tend to get louder when cornering, and is could make an oscillating noise. Generally sounded a lot like a wheel out of balance.

150 miles or 240km per day every day - tough mileage that! My figures are all miles (edit: unless I say otherwise!). Yeah leather seat scuffed up on mine too but it still works! :-D

There is loads more info here than I can relay in a form: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exhaust_gas_recirculation ...but in essence it is not there to improve performance, rather to reduce cylinder combustion temperatures to reduce the production of oxides of nitrogen. Nitrogen is largely inert, but if you get it hot enough it will react with oxygen. I guess the exhaust gas is largely inert, or at least is far more inert than a fuel-air mix and so when some of the mass of gasses in the cylinder is exhaust gas then this reduces the total amount of energy that can be released in a combustion event, and hence lowers the ultimate combustion temps.

I've not noticed it, but guess this could be that it has plenty of chance to do it while I'm on the motorway, or simply because it is a motorway mile muncher the DPF hasn't suffered too bad. No gear change indicator in my car but happy without that.

I mentioned the 55mpg as what I was getting in my first post. I also said I swapped from GPS 65 to 70 as there were issues, the cause of which couldn't be identified. I'm aware of the difference between speedo and GPS, and as it happens so is the car! Plug in a OBD2 device and the speed that reports will be far closer to the real speed. The difference is introduced by the manufacturer to ensure there is minimal chance of a speedo under reading. It's a result of the way teh Construction and Use requirements are worded and you end up needing todo a very similar thing with kitcars when you try to get them through the IVA, or spend a lot of time calibrating. Anyway when your journey involves long stretches of motorway and 50mph road there is only so much stick you can give it without being a real hindrance to other traffic by yo-yoing your speed.

How do you notice the regens? Guess I could search this forum but never had anything indicating a regen on the dash.

I mentioned Shell V Power earlier. Sorry I wasn't a little clearer. I use Shell V Power. The reason why I'm avoiding the subject is there is no obligation for the fuel providers to detail what they include, and so no guarantee what they are putting in today is the same as tomorrow. This is keenly demonstrated by it not being obvious when the winter fuel is in the pumps. Financial effects are easy to work out. Assuming £1.1/l for budget and £1.35 for premium then for every 34k miles covered I would save the £800 the EGR and Intercooler service would cost me. Assumes 0.25 per litre cost saving, 48mpg and 4.55 litres per gallon... (800 * 48) / (0.25 * 4.55) = 33758.24.... The cost difference would pay for a £15 bottle of additive every 630 miles which for me filling up at the beginning of the reserve is one and a bit fills. Cost difference for a 50 litre fill is £12 which works out as costing me £592 more per year with an annual diesel spend of £3200. If that is saving me the inconvenience of one break down a year - which would hike my recovery membership - then I'm absolutely happy with that, particularly if that break down was injectors which would likely expensive enough for me to have to consider replacing the car as there is no guarantee that the rest of the car would last long enough to warrant the spend on the injectors. Many people on here will be forking out lease hires of £200+ per month just to have use of (not own) a newer car to avoid that dreaded breakdown. My choice is costing me around £49 a month as depreciation is next to zero now it has so many miles on it. All of this ignores the advocated economy benefits of the premium fuel which would skew the numbers toward the favour of the premium fuel. Now that is in perspective you can see that I have chosen my fuel to maximise the life of the car. While some may argue choosing premium will have little effect on ultimate life I doubt any one will argue that budget fuel will make my car last longer, or have better performance. What I'm interested in doing is extending that way of thinking to the driving style of my car too - hence the topic title. I suspect that at low load (eg 30-50mph) then dropping to sixth when there are no hills or acceleration requirements may be the most economic choice just based on fuel usage, but I fear that this will have detrimental effects on the ultimate durability of the engine. This is something that VAG don't care a jot about at the sort of mileages I'm clocking up as they'd much rather my car fail forcing me to buy a new one as no one would be surprised to hear a 228k+ mile car has met it's demise and therefore cause VAG group no ill effect on it's reputation.

Please start a new thread if you want to discuss fuel. This will make the information you uncover in your thread easier to find by other people searching the forum at a later date.

Buying a petrol when I bought this car would have cost me far more, and I don't think petrol engines last as long meaning it would have needed to be swapped out sooner too. The recent 1.4 petrol with cylinder deactivation are on a par with my car running cost wise, but that's not comparing like with like and running the modern smaller diesel would save more still.