Laars

I had Eibach on my estate, would go for H&R the next time. Rear will be higher with Eibach and noticiably, not too bad, but I would prefer more lowering at the back as well.

The steering wheel badge is flat but domed. So not exactly oem.

Dont worry about the quality, they are very decent. here is a picture of my key: And if you'd like the steering wheel badge as well: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SKODA-STEERING-WHEEL-EMBLEM-BADGE-LOGO-45MM-compatible-/231614045156? That is a perfect fit, made of aluminium, not a gel sticker like most, looks good as well. I have that stuck on top of the original badge. But, accept the fact that you are putting a piece of alu with a sticker on your steering wheel, so in case the airbag blows.. something _might_ happen.

You can order suitable ones from aliexpress. http://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/6562540994.html?orderId=66426871991856 But, that's a lot of 10 pcs. Some people in the Octavia section had made a group buy on these though. I have ordered a set as well, good quality, good fit.

From what I read, maybe surprisingly, soundproofing the roof makes a big difference, but a rather big job as well.

I used stuff called STP silver. Cut to shape and stick on. Did the spare wheel compartment, boot lid, under rear seats and front arches. To be honest it didn't make that much difference, more quiet yes, but not a drastic difference. Maybe should do the rear arches as well, but don't think I will bother. Biggest difference it made was to make the car feel more 'solid', less little rattles etc. Also note that the sound deadning stuff adds weight quite a bit.

And I wouldn't expect 230bhp, 215bhp realistic.

So, finally got around ordering and installing this non-OE one. It looks surprisingly good, it's a bit wobbly yes, but solid enough. Having a look at it, it could be very easily modified so, that the screw going into the chassis in the cup holder would hold the arm rest as well. Although I'm not sure if the plastic (in the arm-rest) could take the stress, the feel of it makes me think it needs to flex. Bolted down too solid, would it snap..? It's usable, but a bit too low for my liking (I'm tall-ish), is the OE one at the same level?

I did a 320 mile round trip a few weeks ago (right after oil switch) and when driving with cruise setup at 80 MPH my oil temp was consistently at around 97 degrees, which seems a bit high. With Castrol it was nearly 5 degrees lower or something else has happened..

By APR no. Apparently by Revo yes, haven't seen anyone to confirm though. " ** As of January 2015, we are now able to provide Revo Software for the 2013 onward vehicles. 2013MY onward vehicles use a later version of the MED17.5.5 ECU with a TC1797 processor. Both earlier and later versions are supported by Revo, please speak to your Revo dealer for further details ** "

I recently switched from Castrol to Mobil 1 and there has been some changes. Oil temperature was lower with Castrol, but it did use some oil (1L in 9500 miles). With Mobil 1 it runs hotter, but doesn't use any oil seemingly (0L in 1500 miles).

We are talking about the gearbox oil now. In principle it doesn't need to changed, but Skoda issued a campaign for the oil to be changed, so it probably is somewhat important. Engine oil on other hand is a different question, some use cheap oils and maybe use fixed service interval. I would use quality oils anyhow. Mobil 1, Castrol etc. Price difference in minimal anyhow. I have a very slight judder from my DSG from time to time. I'm not concerned about it. I have learnt when the car might judder and can pretty much 100% avoid it now at all times by adjusting the throttle.

Pretty sure they weren't able to map it. Too many smaller players in the market saying it can be done.

Keep in mind that the estates rear eom flaps are a lot smaller than the ones in the hatch.

Wasn't trying to show off, just referred to the common opinion about the map on this forum. The dyno figures don't mean all that much to me. Just nice to have an indication of getting value for the money spent and always nice to see other peoples results. The figures are always up for debate as it depends so much on the rolling road. Any plans of getting yours on a dyno? Would be very interesting to see the results. Pretty sure you were mentioning on another thread you sold the vRS quite some time ago. btw If you happen to have a dyno sheet of any given VRS from the same Dyno as OP, please post it. Regarding Furbytom's dyno runs, I'm a bit surprised that the car wasn't strapped down to any extent. You can't have the hand brake on while doing this, so it was only relying on the rolls.

Maybe it's because no one here has had the guts to put a Revo remap on their car recently. They might have got it right (end sarcasm & off topic).

Stage 1 Cave, no other mods. Curves might be different to begin with, I know.

Good stuff! By the looks of it that's the same dyno equipment as used here. So we should have some comparable data here how mapping changes the curves (done in fifth gear):

20k in 4 years, with that kind of yearly mileage and if the car is running as it should, not using too much oil, juddery dsg, misfires or anything, I would keep it. depreciation vs big bill, well, if the car should need a new engine or mechatronics unit etc, those service jobs would outcost the depreciation. But like you say, skoda would probably cut the cost in half or something similar of goodwill. Depending on car model of course, I don't see mayor depreciation in a year with that kind of mileage either.

It should fit, as long as you have enough space for it. You might need to use a silicon pipe adaptor if the pipe diameter is off.

If I remember correctly Newbie69 had put 7.5" width and ET35, his picture from another thread:

You shouldn't pay for the oil consumption test. What you are describing sounds like misfiring and faulty plugs. Car running rough, juddering, shaking = misfiring. Goneoffski will give a more definitive answer

Ok, I see your point now. So first check that the length of the rods/position of the tie rod ends is equal on both sides.

Adjusting both tie rods the same amount to the correct direction will only adjust the angle of the steering wheel, nothing else. By adjusting them into the opposite directions, you would end up with something like this: \ / or / \. You want to end up like this / / or this \ \. Reason for the steering wheel being off-centre is that the person aligning your wheels had the steering wheel off centre when starting the process (didn't lock it to centre position properly), aligned wheels straight ahead and steering wheel remaining off centre. Before adjusting, obviously make sure that the alignment was done properly, so that the issue truly is only a technician who didn't bother to center the steering wheel. You can off course also remove the steering wheel and re-fit it a few splines to the other direction.

There is a pretty good guide here: You will need to adjust both tie rods the same amount, so you don't mess up the alignment. So let's say your steering wheel is off the the left, that would mean that when your steering wheel is straight your wheels are pointing right. You will need to adjust the tie rods so that your wheels move to the left. How much, thats the tricky part. You can't really know, but if your steering wheel is only slightly crooked, I would start by adjusting the tie rods a 1/4 turn at a time. A full turn on the tie rod will adjust quite a bit. Ok, so back to adjusting. To move your wheels left, you need to lengthen the right side tie rod and shorten the left side. Lenghten = turn counter clockwise, shorten = clockwise. Lift the car up, loosen the tie rod nut, adjust, measure how much by drawing a line on the rod, adjust other side the same amount, tighten the nut on both sides, go for a test drive, if not enough, adjust more, if too much, adjust back. Hard to explain in writing.