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Posts posted by satire111
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Up in smoke: the VW emissions ‘fix’ has left our car undriveable | Money | The Guardian
May be worth contacting the Guardian with your problem
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Picked my 66 plate Yeti up on the 21st December Got to say, as always, i am very happy with my purchase
When we went to see it they placed it in the showroom as it was dark outside, took the time to show my wife everything she asked about and were, as usual non pushy at all in any way
In total ive bought five second hand Skodas from them over the years and everyone of them have been totally reliable, in fact ive still got three of them.
I would certainly recommend them to anyone who doesnt want to feel pressured nor just a number
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I run a 2016 1.6 crd 118 bhp se business remapped to 150 bhp love every minute of driving it I do notice the torque is a lot less than my old 1.9 TDI but I just use the gear box slightly more With the lock down I havnt been driving as far and I think the 1.6 is perfect for the shorter journeys yet still great mpg especially on a longer run would certainly recommend it to anyone and at least I don't have to mess about with add blue either
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Ive Just bought a 2016 superb 1.6 SE business Combi in silver with full leather heated front seats Full size spare wheel The infotainment system I am still learning to use lol
Very happy with it in every way MPG seems fantastic I will add photo soon
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Yes g7eor it so often is a problem with the concentric clutch that causes the pedal to stay down however in this case above it thankfully was not as drastic as that
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Hi Urrell I loosened the cap myself and retightened it but less tight, while understanding what you say and agreeing I think what does happen is that the brake/ clutch fluid isn't changed as per Skoda UK advise, this vehicle had been regularly serviced outside the Skoda network the brake fluid, being hydroscopic absorbs the moister in the air the water itself boils at times when under heavy breaking etc the expansion of the air in the fluid and then the cooling and contraction and re absorption then causes the vacuum effect the blocking of the vent could well be caused by the non renewal of the fluid letting debris and light rust contaminate the system I have seen this very thing happen in Vauxhall corsa and a proton all with shared master cylinder fluid and fluid that hadnt been changed regularly I just hope it would help someone on here not get stung for a new clutch when a simple fix would suffice maybe I should amend my advice to add that a fluid change and vent check would be in order
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2011 Yeti 1.2 tsi petrol engine 6 speed manual gearbox 90,000 miles
The clutch pedal went down as normal to engage reverse gear but the gear was very difficult to engage, when first gear was tried the clutch peddle went to the floor and would not return
The problem was not a failed clutch unit as suspected at first
The clutch fluid is fed to the clutch pedal from the brake master cylinder and then activates the slave cylinder within the bell housing.
The brake fluid master cylinder cap had been overtightened, a vacuum had developed as the brakes wear and the fluid lowers the clutch fluid would move as the clutch pedal was pressed but the vacuum caused the fluid, and therefore the clutch pedal, to not return, simply removing the screw cap on the master cylinder cured what was thought to be a large problem I hope this helps someone else in this group if something similar occurs on their Yeti
I advise changing the brake/clutch fluid every two or three years as per Skoda uk recommendation and on the advise of another member (many thanks) check the vent on the master cylinder cap
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The low pad wear sensor is completely independent from the abs system when the abs system light is on it may well be a problem with a sensor but the sensors for the abs system are on all four wheels the sensor for the front brake pad sensor is on the front left hand pad only
hope this helps
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My dealer only wanted £27.00 for the removal tool or £20. to remove all four locking bolts so try the dealers you may well be surprised
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As I understand it, the air flow meter along with the engine e.c.u. are involved with the egr flow basically when the egr valve is opened the inlet airflow should alter and be within set parameter's that the engine e.c.u. will expect. Engine speed and engine load will also be programmed within the engine e.c.u. to start the opening of the egr
I would be checking the air flow meter for cleanliness, spray it with brake cleaner if it looks sooty or dirty also can you check to see that there isn't a leak from the exhaust side along the egr pipe through the water cooled unit and up to the egr unit good luck and let us know how you get on
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Did you notice this on the RossTech Notes.?
It might be worth finding out if there a update from Skoda dealer for the ECM, ring the service dept and ask them, giving your VIN- When found in Engine: 2.0l TFSI
- Check Wiring from/to the following Components and Components themselves:
- Manifold Pressure / Boost Sensor (G31)
- Intake Manifold Tuning Valve Position Sensor (G336)
- Low Pressure Fuel Sensor (G410)
- Manifold Pressure / Boost Sensor (G31)
- Check TPL 2016420 (RoW)
- Check Engine Control Module Software Version, if necessary perform Update.
- Replace Intake Manifold Runner (V157) with updated part.
- Check Engine Control Module Software Version, if necessary perform Update.
- Check TSB 01-08-12 or 2018402
- Check Engine Control Module Software Version, if necessary perform Update.
- Replace Intake Manifold Runner (V157) with updated part.
- Additional information may be found by searching RVU 24M2 / O3 (Exp. date November 30, 2011) or calling the VW dealer and checking the VIN.
- Check Engine Control Module Software Version, if necessary perform Update.
- Check Wiring from/to the following Components and Components themselves:
- When found in Engine: 2.0l TFSI
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I replaced my standard dip beam bulbs on my FL to Osram nightbreakers too I am very pleased with them, would recommend them. I do a lot of B road night driving and find them excellent
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got my rear one from this guy, spot on two pins line up perfect and sticky adhesive too
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261890642251?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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Billingham TS22
Silver Octy F/L estate 1.9 tdi remapped to 161 bhp 360 nm torque lots of little cosmetic mods with added german shepherd
Silver Fabia estate 1.9 tdi 100 bhp Standard car
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I didnt like the yellowish white that my capless side light bulbs gave out so I have fitted these below and no bulb warning light has ever showed on my dash 2010 fl 1.9 tdi http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331348796146?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I have no connection whatsoever with the seller nor the business i just thought it may help you
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If you have an ohms meter read the resistance of the bulb that is fitted originally then fit a resistor of this ohms resistance (28.8 ohms spring to mind but i could be wrong) along with the L.E.D. A mixed bag of resistors from Maplins and the like are very handy for this
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the glow plugs in a pd tdi engine
As the vehicle ignition is turned on the engine ECU determines the engine temperature via the coolant temperature sensor and uses the mapped in calculations within the engine ECU to determine if the glow plugs need to be switched on at cranking, this is usually around 5- 9 degrees centigrade in the uk the timing of the on period is also pre determined by the engine ECU and the use of the glow plug relay unit
then
Once the engine has started, the 4 glow plugs continue to operate (yes, continue to operate) in order to reduce engine noise,(diesel knock) improve idle quality, and reduce exhaust unburnt diesel emissions.
This afterglow function is thus carried out after every engine start until a specified time has expired or until the engine exceeds 2,500 RPM's - whichever comes first.- 1
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I think it is more to protect the diesel system from particles being sucked up by the in tank pump when the tank runs low, yes it has a filter fitted and there is a filter further down the line but diesel fuel is sometimes contaminated with water and grit/sand which in the old days didnt do to much damage to injectors nor pumps but of course that has all changed with the very tight tolerances on the modern engines I think its wise to keep a good gallon or two in the tank always, just my opinion of course
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The Pdi engine will nearly always start without the glow plugs working,unless the ambient temperature is very low however,the glow plugs are meant to stay on after the engine starts for at least 60 seconds as an aid to lowering start up emissions so the ecu send the instruction for the glow plugs to come on post ignition then flags up codes when the glow plugs resistance is out of speck due to being worn out PS the BXE engine is fitted with 5 volt glow plugs on newer years ! i very nearly fitted the wrong ones
Intermittent display of bulb out indicator on dash display
in Skoda Octavia Mk II (2004 - 2013)
Posted
When I've had this in the past its been a bulb that the glass has gone either black or silver, not sure why the glass does this but the filament of the bulb is becoming more resistant and that's what the bulb out warning system system looks for I have often found it to be the side light bulbs or the twin filament bulbs in the rear good luck and let us know if you find the problem