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drw8

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  • Location
    Portlethen, Aberdeen

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  • Model
    1.4tsi octavia elegance estate

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  1. I bought a 2m long usb-c to lightning cable (genuine from apple store) so that it can charge my boys iPad when on a car journey. When connected no sound plays through his iPad, is there any way to sort this? TIA, Drew.
  2. drw8

    Karoq Order

    Unexpected phone call today, car is at the dealers and will be ready to collect on Monday...
  3. drw8

    Karoq Order

    We ordered our car (via motability) mid January with an expected delivery date of late June. Car has been at port of exit for 6 weeks with no arrival date known.
  4. So I haven't managed to get a matrix/coolant flush done yet due to work and the weather. I bought an air temp thermometer and did a few checks. What I found was with the coolant temp at 90 after doing 20/30mins of driving (blower and temp at full) side vents only the temp is 44 degrees. If I change to windscreen and side vents, temp at the side vents steadily drops to 32 degrees but the windscreen gets really hot. With car stationary but engine running (side vent only) temp at the vent drops to 23 degrees. If I increase revs above 1200 temp starts to climb.
  5. So I've tried what you suggested (heating to auto, 22 degrees) and that puts it to 2 leds lit for the blower 'strength' but if I try to increase the power of the blower it takes it off auto. So I put a lighter in front of the little black dot sensor and didn't notice any difference in temp, but it's very difficult to detect as there's barely anything to feel from any of the vents. I did out of interest and looking at other topics, remove the centre dash storage and found the r/h temp sensor not fully seated. Will get a chance to test again tomorrow and if there's no difference, will crack on with a matrix/coolant flush. Thanks for the continued help/suggestions.
  6. So I took it on a decent journey out to ECP to collect antifreeze ready to flush the heater matrix and cooling system this weekend. During the journey there I did the flap reset every few mins and the air did slowly get warmer from the side/centre vents. When I pressed the recirculation button, the air got much warmer. When I got home I checked the feed/return from the matrix and they are all pretty warm. Now I'm confused, is this pointing more towards an electrical/flap motor problem rather than a restriction in the cooling circuit?
  7. Prior to the rad being changed, rad weld was put in the cooling as a temp fix to avoid a big bill just before Christmas. The coating on the spring and plastic part is like a skin and does peel off.
  8. It could have had incorrect coolant added when it went in for a pressure test to find out it was leaking from the rad and again when the rad was replaced. G12/13 is the correct stuff to use?
  9. Changed out the thermostat and hasn't overheated since. Plastic and spring part of the thermostat were covered in a film/sludge and I found random bits of red crap (congealed coolant?) around the part that opens. Still having problems with getting hot air at windscreen vents but warmish at the side vents. Tried the flap reset a few times, but doesn't seem to be working this time.
  10. OK, so there is no debris in the expansion tank. I took off the small hose and I'm getting a steady flow back to the expansion tank. I can get an 83 degree C thermostat from ECP for £10, so I'm going to change it as it's so cheap (pretty sure it'll be the original, 11 year old) and then I'll take it for a 20 mile drive and see how it goes.
  11. Thanks both for the suggestions. I'll do some testing tomorrow when I have some daylight.
  12. So now I'm having issues with overheating. First time it's been on a 20 mile run since the rad has been replaced and it slowly crept up a 1/16th past 90 degrees and then dropped back to 90. Then it crept up 2/16ths past 90 degrees and dropped. Before it hit red and a warning came on I pulled over and checked for any leaks (coolant tank was still well above empty line) and there was no debris blocking air flow, both fans were running. Cracked the cap on the coolant tank in case of any air locks and carried on a few more miles to my destination where it stayed at 90 degrees. On the return journey, around the 20 mile mark the temp crept up and got into the red and a warning light came up, pulled over immediately (engine off) and checked everything again. Temp dropped back to 90 and carried on with the last few miles of the journey home with heaters on full hot and full blast (have now lost any heat from heaters) Hooked up carista and the only coolant relevant fault code I've got is P0480, but I suspect my overheating is either a blockage, faulty thermostat or (worse case) a water pump. Any suggestions on how to diagnose or get a definitive component at fault? TIA
  13. Have managed to get out a few times now on decent length drives and reset the flaps a few times each journey. Air coming from the centre/side and footwell vents have progressively gotten hotter. Might have been a small air bubble(s) causing the problem. But for now it's behaving.
  14. On the invoice its written up as primary and secondary radiator and was shown 2 rads of similar size. Explained that everything up front bar the a/c condenser was replaced. How do you mean?
  15. Just had both radiators replaced today as one was leaking and the other was heavily corroded along the bottom. Before them being replaced I was barely getting any hot air through any of the vents and just put this down to the leak. Now the leak has been sorted I'm only getting hot air from the windscreen vent and barely warm from the side/central and foot vents. I've done the CC flap reset and there is no difference. Can anyone suggest what the next port of call would be? I don't have VCDS, TIA.
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