Me-109

I think they would be the lower arm rear bushes, aka console bushes. You can buy those as either a bush complete with the aluminium casting, or just the bush that you will need to push out the old and push in the new. You can also get polybush versions. You can use reciprocating saws etc to cut out the old bush and then just push in a new one with basic tools like a wide vice, or you can get removal tools off the various auction sites for sensible money.

I think the fix for this I've seen is to use a tie-wrap around the spring clip to compress it first. As you knock the joint on it moves that cable tie out of the way along the splines. Snip it off before you get the joint fully seated. Not tried it myself, but may work. They don't really sit that proud of the splines.

Rubber mallet / deadblow hammer = job done 😉

Might want to repost or have moved to MK3 board.

Or grab a 1.4tsi petrol and avoid all those stinky diesel issues and get similar economy, albeit at slightly higher road tax. Small price to pay.

I would only suspect a battery if it was struggling to turn over. This is probably more associated with intake temperature being incorrectly read. Not sure if that engine has a separate inlet manifold temp sensor, so more likely to be the MAP (Mass Air Pressure) sensor ( I don't think the diesel uses a MAF - Mass Air Flow).

If you do it online you will immediately receive into your account and/or by email the updated documents. You will have no problems taxing online in respect of insurance, and you can check MoT status at any time. On getting back from my test it was showing on the DVLA's site and third party sites like Vehicles more.

Sound is a pretty good word to describe the 'N' in NVH.

Wouldn't have thought the spacers were threaded? Isn't it just longer bolts through some 10mm plate?

The 'E' looks like it means it's an exchange priced part, that is you need to send them your old one and then you get a part-refund on the price of the replacement. The onlyones I've seen like that with a quick look are more expensive even factoring in the return refund.

I found you could get calipers for not much more than the cost of a service kit, that saved the time and mess of a rebuild. Just a thought.

Gleaming engine! 😎

Check under the scuttle panel cover on that side to make sure the drain holes/slots are clear of debris and coagulated dust. Check also the air inlet to the cabin heater as that can pass water into the cabin past the seal, which might explain the condensation you found. Note, if you go poking under the carpet and insulation there may be more damp than you expect. While you are on, peel back the wheel arch liner at the back of that front wheel an make sure it is clear of leaves etc. I think what you may be hearing when trying to start, or at least turn the ignition on, is relays chugging, so it may just be a simple fix at this point.

That's certainly not a stock MK2 sat-nav system. Aftermarket or later model?

'Most' I suppose depends on the individual places and their equipment/software for diagnostics. A VAG specialist shouldn't have an issue. For others they might use an Autel or similar computer and that would depend on the licences and modules they have paid for as to whether it works on VAG cars and/or of a particular age.