Tdi1.9

Front.....https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OSFW Rear....https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RF4w7uYgc8k Main difference is how the glass is fixed. Front is two clamps held by hex head screws, rear is a plastic peg ,two concentric nylon pieces. The central one can be removed by screwing an M5, I think, bolt into its central hole.

You can also try Passat B5, Golf Mk4. They are all very similar. Is this for the front or rear window?

Oh, and make sure you properly seal the metal plate back to the door panel, otherwise you will soon find very wet carpets.

Youtube will show you the job. Search for Skoda Superb (or Passat B5) door panel removal, or window regulator replacement, and you will find a range of explanations of varying usefulness. Ebay can provide the steel cable regulator mechanism on its own or already assembled to the metal door plate, as well as the electric motor unit.

I've never seen the lenses available on their own, only whole headlight units. New will cost a lot, and second hand ones will likely be no better than your current ones. To properly refurb the lens they need more than just polishing. A fair depth of the surface needs to be removed to get rid of the cloudiness and down to clear plastic. This involves lots of sanding followed by much polishing. A small rotary sanding pad on a drill will be easiest. Search for a 3M headlight restoration kit for about £20. Ebay will find you the kit and youtube will give many videos of the job.

Something like this may help (along with a mirror and torch)

If you've checked the passenger ballast and bulb in the other headlight and proved they are OK, and you've also checked for a 12v dipped beam supply and earth for the dodgy headlight then I'm a bit stumped. Try looking and asking in the B5.5 on www.ukpassats.co.uk and see if someone there has any other suggestions. It's a bit more lively than this section of Briskoda.

You've checked the fuses? On the standard (non HID) headlight superbs there are 4 fuses, LH main and dip and RH main and dip. Check for 12v at the ballast input. Be very careful as the ballast output is a very much higher voltage, google says it's "typically 25,000v" to strike the arc, then settles down to around 100v to maintain the arc. Try swapping bulb/ballast left and right to try to locate the fault.

I've never had one, so I can't say they are no good. It's just that I've seen a lot of owners complain about them...the Bosch VP44 fuel pump, the price of cambelt changes, annual tax, fuel costs are the first points that come to mind. Then maybe auto transmission too. I did a search on this Briskoda forum "superb 2.5 engine problems" and got this....https://search.briskoda.net/#gsc.tab=0&gsc.q=superb 2.5 engine problems&gsc.sort= Try some similar searches "2.5 engine issues" and similar, then you will see the views and experiences of others. You will also find some who say the V6 engine is OK.

From what I've read about them there are a number of potentially engine isssues, particularly the injection pump and expensive servicing, cam belt for example. The 1.9TDi seems to be regarded as a more sensible and reliable option if you avoid ex taxis.

An easy fix is always good news.

Check the coolant level sensor (plugs in to the coolant header tank) is plugged in properly and the wires to it are OK.

I suspect the stricter MOT diesel emissions about three years ago caused many of our cars and similar passats and Audi's to be scrapped. The cost of changing new clutch and dual mass flywheel could also easily cause the scrapping of an 'old' car with low perceived value. I bought my '05 1.9 comfort about 9 years ago. It was hard to find a car that hadn't been taxi'd to death, but I managed one with just over 100,000 miles for £2500 and has now covered 156,000 and is going fine. I did a cam belt kit a couple of weeks ago, together with water pump and auxiliary belts new front brake pads and a service. Because of the low mileage in the last couple of years I left the cam belt change for 5 years rather than the suggested 4. It still seemed in excellent condition. Out of interest, when I bought the car at 8 years old it was of course in need of a cam belt, but despite bills stating a new belt kit in 2009, the belt tensioner I took out in 2013 was dated '05 and must have been the original.

I read a few years ago that the hazard warning switch could also cause intermittent problems.

Indeed they are "solid". Look after it and it will last a very long time. Don't scrap it when it needs a dual mass flywheel and clutch. That's what has removed many from service. The car you replace it with won't be as "solid". How were the emissions in the last MOT? That's the other issue.