PaulWalls

I really appreciate all of your help and your time. I am patiently awaiting for my month check to buy that new metalic flange that I hope will make the whole difference, and if not, I won't blame you, I will keep on trying. A special thanks to ADURER.

It should be read "THROTTLE PLATE SCREW" instead of "mixture adjusting screw", this is where the mechanic set his piece of wire.

Yes, Adurer yes, in fact the problem might be what you just posted, There is a big vacuum leak somewhere, that ugly rubber flange that joints the carburetor and the intake manifold, I heard, the original flange is metalic, not this ugly one that I have right now, that could be part -or the whole problem! I love this forum! By the way, thanks for the information about PIERBURG 2E3, I have like 10 different manuals! some in English and some in German. Now is cristal clear for me I have to buy a new original metalic flange ASAP! Thanks again! (I have put my wife in stand-by position). I really want to get over this problem.

Yes, In fact I live at 2,850 meters over sea level, that's very high! And the former owner of this car surely lived at the same altitude, by judging at the car's number plate that belongs to where I reside.</p>

I have already changed the air filter not with the original part but with something that just fit in there instead. But I think it shouldn't affect that much, should it? When the mechanic rebuilt the engine and we mounted the carburetor back, he couldn't regulate the idle rpm, the fuel mixture adjusting screw had no effect on the carburetor and the engine just went off if I didn't keep my foot on the gas pedal. The mechanic performed an "adaptation" of some kind using a piece of wire, and since that, I have been running that way, but it is driving me mad, because 1) the engine is extremely weak and 2) it is consuming too much fuel. I wish I could take some photos so you can have a more realistic look and we can surely find a solution. I am quite convinced you are more capable and honest than many bloody mechanics! I would rather expend my money on spare parts. (-by the way- are very cheap).

Hi skoda fans I have problems with my carburetor it is sucking too much gas and it is affecting my economy even though gas is very cheap in my country (1 US galon = 1.49 USD or 2.55 liters per dollar!). I removed the carb and cleaned it, then I noticed that the second stage didn't work, it was stuck, I proceeded to repair it, when I mounted the carb again, it wasn't any improvement. Every night I think to rebuild it, but I am afraid to seriously damage it, I will try to take photos and post them on this forum. Thanks in advance for your valuable comments.

I will iniciate a new post. I am thinking to provide more information about my carburetor with photos.

Adurer thank you very much for your support. Creating a video and uploading on youtube is not possible at the time. Thanks anyway.

I am glad you guys have the same car as mine. I've got many many questions. Breakes are just the tip of the iceberg. The next issue we must talk about is why my car is so weak. I have performed a engine rebuild 3 months ago with the hope it will get better, but it is still the same, I have cleaned the carburetor, I have checked the electric system. The spark-plugs are always covered with carbon, I have to clean them regularly. Additionally, this little monster is sucking too much fuel and for being a 1.3 liters engine, it so so dissapointed, it is sucking my wallet out and I don't like that! But I still don't want to give up, I still think is a good car, my wife is really mad at me, blaming me all the time for such a bad purchase, she wants to sell it ASAP.

Ok I think I got it. I have to use the screwdriver as a lever and try to move it up (not the spring) but the tip of a mechanism that will release the pressure of the shoes. OK I am not an expert mechanic but I love to learn.

Thank you very much for your support. I would try to "paraphrase you" so I can understand the procedure in my own words: You suggest to use a screwdriver (like in the first photo) to attempt to release one of the ends of the springs that support the shoes, by doing so, the pressure of the shoes against the drum will be loosened and I will be able to remove it. Is it correct? I am sorry but since I am not a English native speaker, it takes some time for me to understand. Thanks anyway.

Thanks Gallego.

Bill thanks for the advice. I will work on that at the weekend. Good that you mention the rubber mallet otherwise I was thinking to use a heavy sledge hammer (ouch!). How about the large bolts solution? Do you think it would be clever to give it a try?

Hi Skoda fans I want to remove the rear break drums of my old Felicia 1.3. I have watched a couple of videos on youtube. They advice to hammer the drum until it is released. I am afraid to break something or damage the drums. Someone suggested to use M8 (8mm x 40 mm) bolts but my drums don't have holes for such a diameter. They only have four 12 mm holes to support the tyres. However I am thinking to use 12mm x 70mm bolts and introduce them into the same holes where the tyre-bolts are attached and provoke sufficient presure to realease the drums. I just have to be careful not to break any internal parts. It is difficult to see through them. Will it work? Has someone tried this? Thanks!

Hi, I would appreciate any help on how to remove the brake drums of a Felicia 1.3 GLX. I have seen some videos on youtube where you must hammer the drums but I am afraid to brake something. How about using 12 x 70 mm bolts to release the drums? Thanks.