jinxgj

Not strictly today, but over the weekend I fitted an OEM removable towbar and a reversing camera......a good weekends work.

My FL Superb doesnt have the option for 24h clock.....it seems to be a bit of a lottery.

After another attempt today...all done and working on MY2020 model with a 2Q0 A5 camera fitted. Traffic Jam Assist next....wish me luck! Gaz

Half way there then Have VCDS (unless this is insufficient) need board.....

I seem to recall @SashaGrace has something to do this and linked it in another thread - but can i find that thread again.....i really should write things down more often.

Hi everyone, Does anyone use a battery maintainer/charger, battery support unit or jump starter (as an added battery) when coding? If you do - do you have any recommendations? I think the support unit is the gold standard (but at gold standard prices) and i was wondering if another option would suffice for the odd driveway coding session to prevent the car battery dropping as a result? Thanks all Gaz

bump

Tried to code lane assist on my 2020 Superb to no avail. Get an error about uninitialized module, so I assume I need a dealer code to initialize it. Oh well....never mind

What is required for the ACC calibration exactly?

Is this a dealer only job or a vcds intervention? thanks Gaz

Hello all, Anyone had any luck retrofitting a reversing camera to a 2020 Superb? Skoda say they dont have one for retrofit (factory only). Any advice/part numbers/ links to sellers greatly appreciated. Thanks Gaz

Ooopps...sorry.... Will ask in there. Thanks Gaz

Hello again everyone. I am back again after a 3 year hiatus with BMW (540i and X4M). Glad to be here and back in a Skoda again and look forward to helping out where i can. Cheers Gaz

Hello all, i am having trouble finding a reversing camera that will be suitable for a 2020 (Build date November IIRC) Superb III. Any recommendations? Thanks Gaz

+1 for Coopers A few years ago they manifestly failed to fix a fault on my then 320d. In the end I had to tell them what was wrong (providing diagrams of the broken part and telling them what was reqd to fix it)....which they did...but failed to connect the new part correctly. My final words to the sevice manager were " you clearly think that the people who come here for maintenance issues are as stupid as the people that work here" I never went back. Used the independent in Green Hammerton thereafter. Unless things have changed in the interim? I hope so.

Ignore the 80k. A new Kodiaq VRS with £2614 deposit is £631 over 3 years. X4M £566 over 4 years with £0 deposit, actually advertised at £581, but I got it for £566 (some loyalty discount bunkum....but saved me £15 a month so I will take it!!) Gfmv on skoda £19943 Gfmv on BMW £38712 So unless you need 7 seats and cant afford the extra insurance (in my case the difference in insurance costs between the two is £22)...then why not....you only live once 😄

Less for more....sounds about right. Lizards!

After much soul searching and mulling options I decided to not pursue the Skoda option any more. I ordered a BMW X4M at the weekend which I will get in a couple of weeks. Worth the extra per month in my opinion....although I am sure many will disagree. I wish all of you luck with your new Skodas when you eventually get them. Gaz

For those of you considering other options, I think the new Touareg is still on 0% APR with a 15% deposit. Might be worth a look for some of you - better engine than you get in any Kodiaq IMO

I would like the ability to program my radio to switch channels at pre determined times when the car is turned on. I keep forgetting to put Radio 4 on at 9pm on a sunday for Money Box 🙄

I'd agree if it was a big engine...its only a 4 cyl. You are right though that the VW/Audi lords and masters wont allow anything with any real oomph from the 6 cylinder line up in a Skoda. Such a shame really.

I would buy one tomorrow if they put the 272ps tsi engine in it....preferably vrs green!! 🤩

We should start a sweepstake

To do a seal change in an air con system (or any other component that breaks into the sealed system the process is this: Connect the gas rig and remove the current gas (this is not vented but cleaned through a filter on the rig and added to the store of gas connected to it). This takes quite a while to do properly, at least an hour or 2 depending on the amount of gas you have left in the system. Then you break into the system and change whatever components need changing....this allows atmospheric air into the system, and with it water vapour. Water vapour is the easiest way to kill an AC system, so you have to get it out. Next you do a pressure test to the operating pressure of the system, with nitrogen. The system needs to hold this pressure continuously with no drop whatsoever, we did this for at least 4 hours, and more often than not overnight. Once confirmed that the system has no pressure leaks you do the next bit. Now you vac the system down to the a full vacuum. This does 2 things. It lowers the pressure (obvs) which lowers the boiling point of any water that may have condensed out of the air you let in when you opened the system, turning it back into a vapour thus allowing the vac pump to remove it from the system. You can actually see this happening as the vacuum degrades as the water boils off. Once the vacuum stops degrading due to boil off and a steady vacuum is recorded on the guage you isolate the pump from the system, leaving the gauges attached to see if the vacuum degrades again. If it does this is because there is a vacuum leak in the system and they are a bugger to find believe me!! So the 2nd thing it does it a vacuum leak test. The system needs to be left like this for at least 4 hours (but once again we used to leave it overnight). Once all is ok, no water left, no pressure or vac leak, you can then fill the system using the gas rig which adds the prescribed weight of gas and injects the correct amount of lubricating fluid into the system. Then you are good to go....test the cooling temp and rate, and if all good, system serviceable. It is interesting to note, that a 're-gas' is not really that, you are paying for a top up of gas to the correct weight (assuming the system is not completely empty). A re gas does not break into the system but still should have a pressure and vac test. So...in order for any servicing on an AC system to be done properly, the car needs to be with the dealer for at least 2 days, which it never is. So they dont do it properly in any case. Nor do they do it properly when they build the car, or they would have rows of them on pressure and vac tests. My point is this. If it ain't broke, dont mess about with it where AC is concerned as the time limits that are imposed by the economics of the maintenance means you are only introducing more chance for problems to occur. Simply using the system is enough to keep the components and seals lubricated, and until degraded performance is noticed no intervention is necessary. No doubt someone will come on here telling me my timings are all wrong and you can do it in a couple of hours. To them I say this: The systems I worked on where flight critical systems in state of the art military aircraft so the procedures simply had to be done properly. Granted, the weight of gas in a car is several hundred grammes, and the volume in the aircraft I worked on was 2 systems with 12Kg of gas in each - so you can save some time in gas removal and filling, but the vac and pressure tests timings remain. They dont do it properly, leave it alone until you absolutely have to do something to it, and then I would question how they can do it so quickly!!