robek85

Hello. As an owner of 4x4 1.8t i can confirm haldex units are the same with this generation across entire vag range and some other brands also. So golf mkIV, audi tt, audi a3/s3, leon, octavia mk1. For basic service of fluids any off manuals will do. For couplings look at etka or similar. If you have any other question fell free to post them. Rob

Hello, Yes it can be done via remmaping. I think original limits are 1200rpm and 3,75km/h. So when over these values and you press brakes -> cuts throttle. Plus two more pedal maps. You can raise limits and youre good.

Welcome to the club 😃

Can you check your water temperature reading via vag-com? Also your intake temps are way too high if you ask me. From what i know above 50 celsius computer pulls back timing and boost.

Hello. I own exact same car. Tuned to about 220hp. Looks like you're overboosting - do you have a standard downpipe? MAF reading looks to low for a tuned car. So after new plugs and coils you still get a big bang from the front?

Hello. There is a standard option. I have changed them 2 years ago. Let me see if i can find some parts numbers...

Try finding a local garage. I believe most mechanics should be able to measure if a hub is bent. https://www.google.com/search?rls=com.microsoft%3Asl-SI%3AIE-SearchBox&biw=1670&bih=930&ei=1Pn0XInvNbaGwPAP5vGe2Ag&q=kriva+glavčina+kotača+kako+izmjeriti&oq=kriva+glavčina+kotača+kako+izmjeriti&gs_l=psy-ab.3...3428.3428..3953...0.0..0.95.95.1......0....1..gws-wiz.......0i71.8tOK_b7Pkss

Hmm sounds a bit like my story. Have changed two sets of complete brakes in less than 15k km. Vibrations kept coming back after about 3-4k km. At the end had to replace front hub + new bearing (both sides) to get rid of vibration at higher speeds. Had them measured (with dial gauge) before ordering new set, actually had only been warped slightly (few micros..). And of course a new set of front brakes... After that no more vibrations (about 25k km now..) Have to mention i do like to keep my suspenion tidy, everything aligned properly.

If you find spare time come abroad. Have a vag com to address some of the concernes you have.

I have a 2002 octavia 1.8T which has same type engine as one you mentioned. 1. idle should be lower when warm (cca 800rpm) - on cold start (even on not completely cold start) until secondary air pump runs to help warm up catalizator quicker 1200 rpm is normal (usualy for 30-90 second) then goes to 800 rpm 2. throttle body - cleaning, recalibrating -> vag com when coil pack is dead or bad you get knocking and warning light for sure - ussualy when on boost - and running on 3 cylinders 3. overheating? - default needle should show top position 90 degres -> factury programed to show 90 although temp is between 75 and 105 degres(check on vag com) - > can be unlocked to show real temperature without factory compensation how much does the temp rise while stationary? as far im aware some bubbling is normal when water is push back to expansion reservoir - it does operate under some pressure. when pump fails youre definitely going to overheat 4. you might get some strange noise when you start engine (only for a sec or so) - before hydraulic spanner does its work other noise is charcoal canister - clicking noise when removing petrol fumes 5. most probably old battery - maybe also bad starter you might not know these cars have a DMF (dual mass flywheel). mine octy is sitting on 315k km at the moment it has a custom map 211hp an 330nm from 220k on - works like a charm now. i do spoil her with new oil every 10k plus all regular service. always wait till oil gets warm then make a good use of calvary and let it cool down afterwards. At this milage some parts of suspension should have probably been swapped. if all is good you should have a pretty good feel of the car on sterring wheel. chech for air con, abs, door locking - unlocking, rust

That'a alot of timing pull. 1 degre should be about 3hp with these engines. Do you have any other data. Temperature, boost?

They are linked together and use the same oil.

Hey there. I drive same car as you and I have the exact same 'problem' as you described. I have to do full steering when leaving home and car wants to stop on pavement. If i undo sterring a little its ok. If you discover anything let us know.

Hey there. You are right about exhaust. Front brakes are 288mm (280mm without 4x4) also upgradable to 312 with cariers. Rear brakes are 238mm (232 without 4x4). Fuel tank is practical separated in half so it has two fuel pumps one is for leveling fuel the other for engine supply. If you need more info look for MK4 R32 or Audi S3 and Audi TT from that age + Seat Leon 4X4.