Morning, Just a quick couple of questions.

The Clutch on my 2002 mk1 1.9 TDi 110bhp has developed a grating noise when the pedals depressed. I suspect its the release bearing as it only occurs when the pedal is depressed. Gear change is smooth and no slipping so I don't think the clutch is worn. Car has done 83k but mainly motorway mileage. If the box has to come out then I may as well change the clutch so..

First question ..

Is the clutch a traditional flywheel /single plate/pressure plate affair or is it the dreaded DMF?

[i have conflicting info. The brochure from Skoda says single plate but another source says Dual mass Flywheel?]

Second question is ...

How easy is it to do DIY? I have removed boxes before but not on an octy. Can it be done on ramps or does the suspension have to be opened to get the driveshafts off? and anything I would need to look out for?

cheers

JR

The clutch can be single plate and the flywheel a DMF: in fact, nearly all car clutches are single-plate. I'd guess it will be a dual-mass flywheel. No idea how hard it is to change, sorry.

If you want to convert to SMF then this seems a good price but i have no idea regarding the quality

SKODA OCTAVIA BRAND NEW CLUTCH & FLYWHEEL KIT FREE P&P on eBay, also, Skoda, Car Parts, Cars, Parts Vehicles (end time 10-Jul-08 10:49:46 BST)

Perhaps others could advise

From other posts it seems that it is a bit of a struggle though not impossible to get the gearbox out, some say you have to remove one driveshaft flange

Regards

Frank

:finger:Not the easiest clutch to replace!!

Here are the things that the Haynes manual does not tell U ...unless I am blind and cannot see the text on the page....

I "suggest" this method ....NOT ALL STEPS included - just the high points

1) Remove all trim panels that are in the way, plus battery, battery tray, airfilter and hoses.

2) Disconnect the clutch slave cyl. and gearchange cables from the levers.

3) Remove the cable mounting plate and string the slave cyl. and cable assy up out of the way.

4) Drain the Gearbox Oil - WHY - you will have to remove the drivers side driveshaft flange from the gearbox.....when U get to that stage.

5) Disconnect the driveshafts using a spline key (not allen)

Using an allen wrench remove the centre bolt from the driver's side driveshaft and remove the flange from the gearbox!! Also remove the small plate which is locate above this drive coupling bolted on to the bellhousing!

6) Disconnect the tie rods from hybs to allow more elbow room

7) Unclip electrics from shiled on starter

8) Remove (13mm) starter shield / AC pipe brackets)

9) Unbolt starter (18mm I believe) and remove.

10) Loosen all engine to gearbox bolts.

11) Support engine (I used Uni-Strut & Chain) off cyl head bracket

12) Support G/Box secure on trolly jack

13) Remove lower stabiliser bracket

14) Remove gearbox support bracket bolts (18 mm)

15) OPTIONAL - remove the two 13mm bolts which secure the gearchange mechanism to the gearbox and tap the assy with soft mallet to remove vertically from box. MAKE SURE the box is in NEUTRAL or you will do damage! PL:UG the hole with a large rag to keep dirt out. This will give you loads of clearence to menouvre the box out from under the car.

16) SPRAY loads of WD40 on the three bolts that hold the gearbox mounting bracket to the box and remove this bracket. you may have to lower the box slightly to gain access to the bolts.

17) Remove the engine / box bolts and slide the trans away from teh engine. do not use a pry bar between the two as you can bend the engine plate....

18) I found it easiest if the box was rotated CCW as you look at the LH end to get the diff housing up over the x-member and then move it towards the outside of the car before dropping it down.

19) now use a spline key used to remove the clutch pressure plate

20) More than likely U have a DMF and this is held on by large TORX bolts

21) I made a bracket to hold the flywheel from turning to udo the flywheel bolts.

22) Check the pivot point of the clutch release arm ....the plastic "ball" on mine had split in half

23) While the box is out on the floor examine how to re-install the gear selector mechanism to make it easy when the box is back in.

24) When re-installed you can refill the box thro' the gear selector hole before refitting the mechanism.

25) YOU will have to push the drive flange (against a spring) into the box to get the allen bolts started into it's thread

Hope this helpss

Cheers guys.

Will probably give it a go once I've sourced the parts.

Is it necessary to replace the flywheel when doing a DMF or can the friction plate be done on its own if the flywheel looks okay?

engine is an ASV and gearbox is coded EG5

thanks JR

Getting the gearbox out is easy.

Getting it back in can be the challenge especially if doing it on your back.

Looks like SWMBO will be getting her hands dirty as well then

Oh and as Bengie will vouch you dont have to remove the o/s flange to remove/refit the gearbox so no oil loss or drainage required.

When I did my clutch job two weeks ago i could not get the drive shaft flange past the flywheel so i had to remove it. Although extra work it made refitting a doodle.

I had a spare DMF so I fitted this to replace my broken unit. Given the amount of time to do this job I would suggest replacing the the entire unit with a single mass item....this is personal preference.

Thanks Guys,

Couple more questions..

What sort of weight is the gearbox? and do you have to remove the engine mounting bolts [on the cambelt side of the engine] or is there enough play to allow the engine to drop?

The box is heavy enough........you will need someone to work the jack while U lie on the floor and manouvre the box in / out of its location. No need to drop the engine mount on the cam belt side - but don't let the engine drop too far or you can cause damage to pipework etc.

Unless it's been changed, DMF. Get a new SMF with the clutch kit, have the box oil changed at the same time.

Morning, Just a quick couple of questions.

The Clutch on my 2002 mk1 1.9 TDi 110bhp has developed a grating noise when the pedals depressed. I suspect its the release bearing as it only occurs when the pedal is depressed. Gear change is smooth and no slipping so I don't think the clutch is worn. Car has done 83k but mainly motorway mileage. If the box has to come out then I may as well change the clutch so..

First question ..

Is the clutch a traditional flywheel /single plate/pressure plate affair or is it the dreaded DMF?

[i have conflicting info. The brochure from Skoda says single plate but another source says Dual mass Flywheel?]

Second question is ...

How easy is it to do DIY? I have removed boxes before but not on an octy. Can it be done on ramps or does the suspension have to be opened to get the driveshafts off? and anything I would need to look out for?

cheers

JR