i was just driving and the sub and anp just went off, i've checked all the connections and they seem ok. then when pulling out the stereo to check the remote cable and stuff the whole stereo stopped working. I took out the bridge set of wires and plugged the iso straight into the stereo and its works but its really trippy, like u have to press buttons in a weird order to get it on.

any ideas whats going on cause im right confused!!!

help would be most appreciated!!

much love

Timothy xxx

Grounding issues maybe ..............

Thats at a guess btw

XXX

Whats with the kisses this ain't a birthday card :P

have you checked the fuse?

it won't be the fuse sms as its getting power

mate its broke try and get someone who knows to look at it as you could do more damage than good poking around

im thinking the thermal fuse not blade fuse tripping.

right, well a quick update, i went to halfords and baught a new bridge thingy which makes the cable longer and switches over 2 of the wires. anywho i thought this might fix my problem but it doesn;t like working with this bridge bit.

could it be a fuse cause thats the only thing i can think of, however power gets to the stereo without the bridge bit if i connect the iso directly...

****ing hell y does this happen to me, and this means my sub and amp aint working either!

any more ideas, might take it to a garrage later (y)....

and the kisses... well its to show my appreciation,

xxxx

No kisses for me thanks, but have you tried your head unit in another car.

If the head unit is shafted then it won't be putting the 12v down the line to tell the amp to turn on and as such the amp will not have power so you won't get an amp or a sub.

Also why are you using a bridge wire and what purpose does it serve?

In the car the leads are not quite ISO as the red/yellow (perm/switched lives) are swapped and the blue wire is connected to the diagnostics not the powered aerial.

So make sure the blue is not connected and the other two are swapped over in your bridge cabling or somewhere else or just do it on the HU wiring loom and loose the bridge.

Also, get a multimeter and see if you are getting hte amp turn on signal at the amp end. If you are and the HU is ok then next step is to check any fusing running to the amp and test that elsewhere.

Perhaps wire it with a set of crock clips to a spare battery and see if feeding it a signal works.

If you have the sub too loud and your wiring can't cope with the load you will eventually knacker the amp as it goes can't pull enough juice to run and will damage the transistors and other components.

Eg something is knackered so it will be a trip to a car stereo place if you can't work it out for them to diagnose it and then you can get your bits repaired/replaced.

It's worth paying them to find the cause as if the wiring isn't up to it all you will do is toast a new amp after a short while.

well i've had the sub and amp 3 years now... just put it in my cskoda recently. The bridge wiring is what im talking about, its that iso addaptor where the red and yellow wire swap places.

i didnt want to cut the Remote cable on my in car wireing so i did it on the addaptor. but it was working, i dont know whats happened. its annoying me like crazy, im just leaving it 4 now without the amp and sub cause its working just not when i have the addaptor on...

have you opened up the amp to see if there is any burnt or popped capacitors or anything? its just something cheezmonkai just said that made me remember when i had an amp that packed up.

well i've had the sub and amp 3 years now... just put it in my cskoda recently. The bridge wiring is what im talking about, its that iso addaptor where the red and yellow wire swap places.

i didnt want to cut the Remote cable on my in car wireing so i did it on the addaptor. but it was working, i dont know whats happened. its annoying me like crazy, im just leaving it 4 now without the amp and sub cause its working just not when i have the addaptor on...

So everything works just fine except the amp when it's all connected together, or when the amp if plugged in the head unit goes funny too?

You have checked that the connections on the amp signal wire are properly crimped or soldered?

How thick is the power wire to your amp, how powerful is the amp and what is the RMS power rating for your sub cone?

have you tried another amp?

Very obvious thought that I've just had, but what wire on the cars wiring loom do you think is the amp sub wire. I don't think it exists on the cars ISO lead, so if the bridge wire is connecting this, that could be causing you some issues.

If you look at the two 8 pin ISO connectors the wire to the amp usually isn't in this, but is a flying lead from the head units own loom to a bullet connector.

have you tried wiring the amp straight from the battery (with a inline fuse) and the preout being the rear speakers?

All fixed, i, again took the car to bits checked all the fuses. and turned one fuse the other way up on the radio bit of the fuse box and there we have it a fix of my problem! dunno what went on there, stupid thing, all working now, sub and all is working

all good.

Possibly a loose wire somewhere maybe.

All fixed, i, again took the car to bits checked all the fuses. and turned one fuse the other way up on the radio bit of the fuse box and there we have it a fix of my problem! dunno what went on there, stupid thing, all working now, sub and all is working

all good.

it won't be the fuse sms as its getting power

thank you thank you, mines a pint:thumbup: