First of all, I have to say thank you all for this excellent thread. It really gives some good information about Octy's speaker system and how to improve it.

Now to the point.

Did the Penguin's capacitor mod today. I really do have to say that I'm very very impressed about the sound now. It really works.

My tweeters originally had 6.8uF/35v capacitor working as crossover filter. I replaced them with 3.3uF/100v capacitor like Penguin suggested.

First of all, I have to say thank you all for this excellent thread. It really gives some good information about Octy's speaker system and how to improve it.

Now to the point.

Did the Penguin's capacitor mod today. I really do have to say that I'm very very impressed about the sound now. It really works.

My tweeters originally had 6.8uF/35v capacitor working as crossover filter. I replaced them with 3.3uF/100v capacitor like Penguin suggested.

Hi downtime,

Sure because you send only freq above 12000 Hz to the tweeter so the sqeaky sound is gone.

If you place a decent tweeter like A16NS V you can use a higer capacitor because that tweeter can handle freq above 5000 Hz. I guess the stock tweeter just isn't good:(

The only problem with this mod is that you get a gap in your freq range as the woofer can never catch up to this freq.

Hi downtime,

Sure because you send only freq above 12000 Hz to the tweeter so the sqeaky sound is gone.

If you place a decent tweeter like A16NS V you can use a higer capacitor because that tweeter can handle freq above 5000 Hz. I guess the stock tweeter just isn't good:(

The only problem with this mod is that you get a gap in your freq range as the woofer can never catch up to this freq.

I know this but it's something that doesn't bother me. The gap isn't perceivable so it isn't there

I have to say that the stock tweeter sounds good enough now. How easily the human ear can be deceived

I know this but it's something that doesn't bother me. The gap isn't perceivable so it isn't there

I have to say that the stock tweeter sounds good enough now. How easily the human ear can be deceived

You're a 100 % correct

Penguin had a very good idea there, maybe we should ask to make a sticky out of his mod, I guess with the little work a lot of people would be tempted to try it

Penguin had a very good idea there, maybe we should ask to make a sticky out of his mod, I guess with the little work a lot of people would be tempted to try it

I agree. This thread definetly should be stickied.

I agree. This thread definetly should be stickied.

I just send a PM to Tom_vRS , lets see what happens

I just send a PM to Tom_vRS , lets see what happens

I've added this thread to the Hints and Tips thread that is stickied

Hi bogey555,

thanks for the wealth of info! It seems I'll have to read for a while. What do you mean when you say to pay attention to the correct version of Hertz HSK-163?

In some country's they sell it with the HT 20 tweeter or with different midrange or woofer.

Be sure you get the version I mentioned in one of the previous posts as otherwise you could end up dissapointed.

R/

Hi folk's

I think Penguin's cap mod works well because the stock woofer does a pretty good job of the HF. I discovered this when I tried the system with the tweeters disconnected.

It's probably the best solution for people sticking with the stock speakers and if you can sound deaden the doors as well, even better!

Cheers,

RDX

In some country's they sell it with the HT 20 tweeter or with different midrange or woofer.

Be sure you get the version I mentioned in one of the previous posts as otherwise you could end up dissapointed.

R/

Thank you,

I'm not yet completely sold on the Hertz it, even if Hertz - despite the german name - is an italian brand and, yes, the kit comprehend the HT25.

The penguin mod sounds like the first feasible quick and dirty step, given that my car is a company car. I was just fancying a step 2 involving the midranged-cup-holder but in this case, I'd need a quick crossover solution and I should necessarily dismantle the door panel.

Thanks for all info

I just had to write some more experiences after this cap mod, so please bear with me a little bit

I've been listening to different kinds of music after the mod and I'm more and more pleased how especially good classic rock sounds now. You really can hear the different instruments.

The stereo imaging is LOT better than before.

I was driving to work this morning and started to listen this "nack-nack-nack" noise from the passenger side. First I thought there's something loose until I realised it's part of the song that was playing. It was drummers sticks banging against each other I haven't heard that before even though I've been listening that record several times already.

So long story short. Do this mod, you won't regret it.

I just had to write some more experiences after this cap mod, so please bear with me a little bit

I've been listening to different kinds of music after the mod and I'm more and more pleased how especially good classic rock sounds now. You really can hear the different instruments.

The stereo imaging is LOT better than before.

I was driving to work this morning and started to listen this "nack-nack-nack" noise from the passenger side. First I thought there's something loose until I realised it's part of the song that was playing. It was drummers sticks banging against each other I haven't heard that before even though I've been listening that record several times already.

So long story short. Do this mod, you won't regret it.

Cheers Downtime: glad somebody tried actually doing the mod.

I'm sure there are lots of other ways to improve the sound system by throwing money & time at it. I just wanted a quick, cheap, non-drastic way of improving the irritating sound I was getting & for me (& obviously you) this does just that. I don't feel the need any more to "change the HU or replace the speakers" etc.

I haven't addressed the rear spkrs yet but for some reason they sound duller to start with & I ain't been motivated to find out why ....yet.

I haven't addressed the rear spkrs yet but for some reason they sound duller to start with & I ain't been motivated to find out why ....yet.

I did all the four tweeters and I have to say that the sound is more full now. The balance between front and rear is more complete and you really can hear the sound field surrounding you.

I first did only the fronts to hear if there's a difference. At that point it was obvious that the rears need work too. The sound field was very much duller as you couldn't hear the rears at all.

Now the rears complement the fronts perfectly.

I did all the four tweeters and I have to say that the sound is more full now. The balance between front and rear is more complete and you really can hear the sound field surrounding you.

I first did only the fronts to hear if there's a difference. At that point it was obvious that the rears need work too. The sound field was very much duller as you couldn't hear the rears at all.

Now the rears complement the fronts perfectly.

Yep ...have to agree Downtime, have just done the rear tweeters (changed X-over cap for 3.3uF ) and it does improve the rear speakers noticeably(as listened to from the rear seats). I wasn't sure if it was making much difference to the sound in the front - but on doing various checks (with Fader & rear caps replaced/not replaced etc.) it seems it is noticeable even from the front seats (fronts already modified) - so worth doing all speakers(tweeters)!

Penguin,

I still have to give you feedback as I'm still evaluating different options. Meanwhile, I must say that after 5-6 month of daily use even the stock setup is sounding better (wonders of breakin... )

Fitted 3.3uf 100v capacitors to all 4 tweeters (Octavia Vrs TDI CR DSG ), what a difference, spot on.

Previous sound very harsh with voices distorted to the point where people were hard to recognise. After mod fitted you have a smooth balanced sound that is true to the peoples voices.

Capacitors are available at Maplins for 12 pence each, complete mod costs 48 pence; difference unbelievable!

Thanks Penguin

I know practically nothing about audio electronics. But I can solder things.

But I do know the tweeters in my Octy 2 VRS PD TDI (07-08 model) are very shrill.

So what excatly do I need to say to the chap in Maplins to get the correct capacitors to do all 4 tweeters with Penguins mod ?

Will "can I have 4 of those 3.3 micro farad 100 volt capacitors please " do , or is more info required ?

Very poor phone camera Pic of LH door tweeter & mod. (SWMBO gone out with real camera!)

[ATTACH]24539[/ATTACH]

Penguin

I can only view the top section of this pic. Any chance of sending it again or PM-ing me with it.

Thanks for a great mod.

I know practically nothing about audio electronics. But I can solder things.

But I do know the tweeters in my Octy 2 VRS PD TDI (07-08 model) are very shrill.

So what excatly do I need to say to the chap in Maplins to get the correct capacitors to do all 4 tweeters with Penguins mod ?

Will "can I have 4 of those 3.3 micro farad 100 volt capacitors please " do , or is more info required ?

There are hundreds + capacitors in Maplins, (ceramic, mylar etc etc) . What do I need to get ?

Its like me asking for a bolt knowing the length but not the thread, shank, head type, width, material , hardness etc etc.

Anyone help ?

If you look for (industrial) best go for MKP , the more Volts, the better.

HTH

Again:

"Audio grade" Audio Grade 33uF

KR81C £5.22 In Stock

as on: Audio-Grade Polypropylene Axial Capacitors > Maplin

Or, cheaper (FKP):

1250V 3300pF PolyP N34CN £0.25

Polypropolene Capacitors with Metal Foil > Maplin

Or, cheaper (FKP):

1250V 3300pF PolyP N34CN £0.25

Polypropolene Capacitors with Metal Foil > Maplin

Right, Im off to maplins in Erdington this afternoon.

Also Just to make sure; I should replace the current capacitor with one of these and not keep the one in circuit. yes ?

Yes, exactly! Desolder the elco cap and place this film cap.

It will sound better. Remember to take some time as for caps,too, there is a break-in period

The code for the capacitors that I used are - NP 3.3 uF 100v Part No. JA77J £0.12 each. The capacitors are small enough to be stuck to the rear of the tweeters with double sided tape.

I didn't want to go over the top with higher voltage capacitors, whilst they were more expensive, it was the much larger size that put me off as it would have made them harder to fit into the available spaces. Also I thought that the audio grade capacitors were more geared towards a studio/home environment.

I would be interested if anyone has tried both and had a comparison of the sounds.