Octavia II Poor Sounding Stereo Fix

[Reds]

Right, Im off to maplins in Erdington this afternoon.

Also Just to make sure; I should replace the current capacitor with one of these and not keep the one in circuit. yes ?

Let us know how you got on. Like you, I'm not gifted with an electronics degree, so I'd like to know if it really is a job for somebody who has only basic soldering skills.

[Genoa1893]

I would be interested if anyone has tried both and had a comparison of the sounds.

Rather than voltage it's the very physic of the cap which "marks" its sound. Although I didn't (yet) try on my octy tweeters, it's well known in audio this general (so bear with me) rule of thumb: paper in oil > film foil > electrolytics. For a quick look: Capacitor Characteristics You can search for electrolytics (the 0.12 GBP is a non polarized elco). As I value time a lot, no doubt I'll do the swap with film foil HTH

[Jules59]

Let us know how you got on. Like you, I'm not gifted with an electronics degree, so I'd like to know if it really is a job for somebody who has only basic soldering skills.

Thanks to Briskoda and everyone who gave advice.

I have been able to do this mod quite easily. Took about 2 hours to get all 4 tweeters out and install new capacitors (Maplin N34CN). The capacitors I bought had connections that were too short and so have used 2 yellow "jump" wires on each capacitor. I would perhaps have bought another type if I had viewed the tweeters prior to purchase. But the capacitors were only 12p each. I glued each capacitor to the back of each tweeter with a glue gun.

Sound much improved. Used to have treble on -7 but now its on 0. Very pleased.

All the door trim bits came out easily because its warm today and they were not too brittle.

[Reds]

Thanks for the update, glad it was successful. It has been said that they will sound better after they've been 'run-in' for a while, too.

This site is fantastic. I was seriously thinking of changing the HU due to the tinny sound. Now it looks like I'll just be spending a quid on some new caps. Thanks everyone

[chavdarlk]

Or, cheaper (FKP):

1250V 3300pF PolyP N34CN £0.25

Polypropolene Capacitors with Metal Foil > Maplin

NO, NO, NO :nono: 3300 pF = 3.3 nF = 0.0033 µF

Right value is 3.3 µF = 3300 nF = 3300000 pF

[Jules59]

NO, NO, NO :nono: 3300 pF = 3.3 nF = 0.0033 µF

Right value is 3.3 µF = 3300 nF = 3300000 pF

Oh bugger Ive put the wrong ones in. Didnt check - could kick myself - just used the Maplin codes as given.:mad:

Having said that it does sound much better than before even with these 3300pF (0.0033microF) ones.

Should I leave them or put the "correct" ones in ? Will the 3300pF ones damage anything ?

[chavdarlk]

Having said that it does sound much better than before even with these 3300pF (0.0033microF) ones.

Are you sure you are hearing anything but some hissing :eek:

Should I leave them or put the "correct" ones in ? Will the 3300pF ones damage anything ?

You should buy the right value, but current ones would not damage anything.

[Genoa1893]

Oh Jeez,

I'm really sorry for having written too in a hurry... Jules with these caps you're cutting way more music to the tweeters than originally specified, but no other issues.

We might find an use for the caps, anyway, as bypass caps (even if the value isn't the optimum) by wiring them in parallel to the original bipolars (assuming you didn't yet trash them).

Again, sorry...

Edited 21 March, 2009 by Genoa1893

[Genoa1893]

NO, NO, NO :nono: 3300 pF = 3.3 nF = 0.0033 µF

Right value is 3.3 µF = 3300 nF = 3300000 pF

Hello chavdarlk,

thanks for "awakening" me . It happens I often do too many things together and getting old...

Ciao,

[Jules59]

Oh Jeez,

I'm really sorry for having written too in a hurry... Jules with these caps you're cutting way more music to the tweeters than originally specified, but no other issues.

We might find an use for the caps, anyway, as bypass caps (even if the value isn't the optimum) by wiring them in parallel to the original bipolars (assuming you didn't yet trash them).

Again, sorry...

No worries mate. I was in a rush to get it done as I was passing Maplins that day. It didnt even click with me that I was out by 1000x.

Its an easy mod anyway - I'll change to the correct capacitors when I get to pass Maplins again.

[WipeOut]

NO, NO, NO :nono: 3300 pF = 3.3 nF = 0.0033 µF

Right value is 3.3 µF = 3300 nF = 3300000 pF

Hi,

HELP. I have my door in pieces. Could some one please confirm if Maplin NP 3.3uF 100V JA77J is the correct one?

Also any tips on undoing the door lock?

Thanks WipeOut

[moronica]

"The code for the capacitors that I used are - NP 3.3 uF 100v Part No. JA77J £0.12 each"

As posted on the 20/03/09 these are the correct capacitors, best regards

[moronica]

I didn't undo the door lock release wire, I left them attached, basic process below -

1. Used a few old credit cards (with insulation tape applied to their edges not to mark the trim) to remove trim.

2. Remove bolt holding each handle

3. Unclip plastic handle starting from the top, either by pushing clips gently from outside in with finger or bent hook type tool or help with small screwdriver from inside. I LEFT THE DOOR RELEASE CABLES CONNECTED AND DONE THE WORK IN SITU, USING A CLOTH THE COVER TRIM WHILE WORKING ON THE TWEETER NOT TO MARK TRIM.

4. Cut away wire from existing capacitor and insulate, left old capacitors in situ.

5. Cut some insulation sleeving to cover exposed wires of new capacitor, leaving enough exposed wire to join to tags.

6. Connect between the two tags on the same side. Solder and stick to back of tweeter, glue or sticky both sides.

7. Test before re-fixing trim and handle assembly

8. When re-installing handle assembly, clip bottom in first and then rest of clips (I made a simple tool out of 12mm wide alloy bent in a u shape to push door card outwards whilst pushing handle assembly to get clips to reseat in correct position),

9. Re-fix with bolt, before re-installing outer trim.

10. Sit back and enjoy results

[Penguin]

Hi folkes - sorry I didn't see the questions & post some replies but not looked on here for a few days - however Chavdarlk & Genoa doing a grand job. Hope you all get the same results I had as it transformed the sound from the standard kit in my Octy to very acceptable....... from harsh & irritating!

Nice picture of the cap installation jules...however as Chavdarlk pointed out - doubt the 3300pf would have produced anything audible from the tweeters! (just shows how horrible they sound with the originals in to actually make it sound better !)

I 'm surprised Skoda hasn't fitted lower values as standard. The original (6.8uf) installed on these tweets sounded offensive to my ears:eek:

All I'm looking for now is a similar mod to reduce the tyre noise on some types of road surface in my Octy. Elegance 16" alloys with ER300 Bridgestones on (originals)

Edited 22 March, 2009 by Penguin

[Genoa1893]

"The code for the capacitors that I used are - NP 3.3 uF 100v Part No. JA77J £0.12 each"

As posted on the 20/03/09 these are the correct capacitors, best regards

Friends, after having enough asked for your pardon for previous dumb dimensioning error,

I'll keep saying that I would really avoid considering that crap (JA77 "SAMWHA") as "the correct capacitors", considering the time you'd spend to do the work is the same as if you would use a decent cap.

Ahhh, finally I said it !

P.S.: It would be worth even worth checking if maplin RG63Twould physically fit (eventually paralleled with a smaller .3uF).

Edited 23 March, 2009 by Genoa1893

[WipeOut]

"The code for the capacitors that I used are - NP 3.3 uF 100v Part No. JA77J £0.12 each"

As posted on the 20/03/09 these are the correct capacitors, best regards

Thanks Moronica that's what I ordered.

[WipeOut]

Hi Everyone,

Thanks to everybody for the posts. I did the job (capacitor change NP 3.3 uF 100v Part No. JA77J) on Sunday morning. I'm not a mechanic and have little experience with electronics. Once I had figured out the first door lock and speaker fix (took about an hour), the next few took 10 minutes each. Once you know how, it's an easy fix. I completely removed the lock latch and so that I could do the soldering in my workshop.

The Skoda is my wife's car. My car has a Bose system. My previous two cars were Volvo's with there Dolby Surround system which are fantastic. I wasn't expect Hifi quality in the Skoda, but the system was so bad, I was close to taking it to a specialist to get it changed (new header and speakers) which would be around £1000 of work!!!!

I've tried the fix, and although I wouldn't say it has turned rag in to silk, and I wouldn't expect it to, it is certainly an improvement, and good enough for me to live with. So the fix gets a thumbs up from. The sound is now adequate for a stock system. I can now run my equalisation at neutral, no bass or treble adjustment, where as previously I had the treble turn down.

Thanks again everyone.

[skippy41]

Every now and then I get a loud popping sound from my stream, and the sound is like someone under water could this be the amp thats causing this

[Jules59]

Just soldered the "correct" capacitors in. Im getting quite good at getting the trim and handles off and on .

Definitely an improvment.

[Genoa1893]

Jules,

where did you apply Noise Killer? Where did you buy it?

TIA

[magic62]

Want to thank all you guys for this thread. Ordered my caps beginning of the week and they are already lying around. Just that I am not at home yet :(.

Will do the tweek this weekend and am already looking forward to the result.

Dont like the original sound of the tweeters (or better screemers) either and hope to get a better balanced sound.

[brad1.8T]

The pimply youth at my local electronics place (www.jaycar.com.au) sold me some 3.3uF 100v "Greencaps" and it seems to have taken too much out of the highs of the system. I'm not sure that i like it at all.

I listen to a lot of Audio Books so lots of spoken word/higher tones.

Is this the wrong type of capacitor or is there something wrong with the specification?

Also, if the original capacitor was 6.5uF 32v, what is the reason for going to 100v (esp in a 12v system).

edit: How do you measure capacitance with a multimeter?

[Jules59]

Jules,

where did you apply Noise Killer? Where did you buy it?

TIA

I bought the kit for the estate from here.

Noisekiller UK - Sound Proofing Cars

I placed the various pads under front & rear carpets, bonnet, boot floor and spare wheel bay and rear side panels & wheel arches. I never got round to placing the specific pads inside the doors. I was waiting for another reason to take the door cards off.

[Genoa1893]

The pimply youth at my local electronics place (www.jaycar.com.au) sold me some 3.3uF 100v "Greencaps" and it seems to have taken too much out of the highs of the system. I'm not sure that i like it at all.

Strange thing, indeed lowering the capacity of this cap raises the frequency above which signal goes to the tweeter but does not limit the highs, unless some bad connection is done. Of course you have to wire the cap in series to the tweeter, like e.g. depicted in:

Passive Crossover Slopes

I listen to a lot of Audio Books so lots of spoken word/higher tones.

Is this the wrong type of capacitor or is there something wrong with the specification?

IMHO, the cap is fine. Way better than non polarised elco. Perhaps it needs some time to burn in.

Also, if the original capacitor was 6.5uF 32v, what is the reason for going to 100v (esp in a 12v system).

Shortly, better quality is needed for higher specs. So a cap rated for 100v(ac) is typically better than a 50v(ac) rated one.

The 12v given by battery are dc, the signals flowing to the speakers are ac. Music, signal, is variation.

edit: How do you measure capacitance with a multimeter?

With the capacity feature :D:D, of course!

Or you can suppose the C value, with some calculation. But, non to break the cap, you must have a sinusoidal voltage generator with Vmax below Vrating:rolleyes:

HTH

[brad1.8T]

Strange thing, indeed lowering the capacity of this cap raises the frequency above which signal goes to the tweeter but does not limit the highs, unless some bad connection is done. Of course you have to wire the cap in series to the tweeter, like e.g. depicted in:

Passive Crossover Slopes

thanks for all the info. I get a feeling i just don't know the jargon enough. I was listening to something else today & it sounded better so maybe the recording I've been listening to since Sunday has just been poor quality.

Connection is fine & circutry is good too.

IMHO, the cap is fine. Way better than non polarised elco. Perhaps it needs some time to burn in.

The greencaps are polarised? wasn't marked as such.:confused:

With the capacity feature :D:D, of course!

Or you can suppose the C value, with some calculation. But, non to break the cap, you must have a sinusoidal voltage generator with Vmax below Vrating:rolleyes:

HTH

I don't think my $10 MM does that:O

Thanks mate.