Is there a cure to stop water getting into the rear foot well behind the drivers seat????? and what causes it

It is usually a fault with the door carriers. I had mine repaired by a skoda dealer for £53.00 including parts, labour and VAT.

Alternatively you could do it this way:

Fabia-vrs.com - Re-sealing Fabia Rear Ancillaries Carriers

Some other people say it may be the rear washer pipe, other people may need to clarify this.

Edited 1 September, 200817 yr by yegnold
Added info about rear washer pipe

It is usually a fault with the door carriers. I had mine repaired by a skoda dealer for £53.00 including parts, labour and VAT.

Alternatively you could do it this way:

Fabia-vrs.com - Re-sealing Fabia Rear Ancillaries Carriers

Some other people say it may be the rear washer pipe, other people may need to clarify this.

I was thinking more door seals á la Fabia I... ant the Superb doesn't have a rear wash wipe so it's not that.

Have a look and check that the drain are clear in the rear doors, when I had water ingression in the front they also found some damp in both rear foot well's so they stripped out my rear doors and resealed them and cleared the drains, apperently if they are blocked when it rains hard the doors fill with water and the only way out is through the aluminium inner door skin, under the door card and then into the rear foot well,

If you strip the rear door card off, which is quite easy, a couple of screws at the bottom and two behind the door handle you will see what i mean about the aluminium door card, It surprised me when I saw it as when ever I've ever had to strip a door down before its just been big access holes covered in that clear film! but not the Superb

how easy is it to strip apart a front door as i have water coming in there and think that the inner door seal needs re-sealing ?

If it's a damp passenger floorwell the likely problem is leaking pollen filter housing. Get on this as quick as you can as you shortly will have electrical problems. Plenty of good threads dealing with this. Best of luck getting it sorted

how easy is it to strip apart a front door as i have water coming in there and think that the inner door seal needs re-sealing ?

I beleive its more or less the same, a few screw around the bottom of the door, split and pull off the front of the big pull handle to expose the two 6mm screw that hold the rest of the pull handle to the door, for the drivers door I beleive you have to remove the whole off the window switch plate to expose the 6mm screws, you do this by carefullt prising it up from one end and it will just unclip.

You then just pull the bottom of the card out and inch or two and slowly and carefully push the card upwards, this will unclip from the top where it lips around into the window, its then a case of unclipping the many cables, speaker, door switches, lights and also the door open pull hand steel cable,

Reassembling is this process in reverse but remember when connecting the door opening pull handle after connecting the inner steel cable too also connection the outer sheath to the card, it clips on and is a bit of a poor design as it can fall off as I found out and the handle doesnt work and its a strip down again!

Also all the screws are torx screws so you will need a varied set of torx drivers

if it's a damp passenger floorwell the likely problem is leaking pollen filter housing. Get on this as quick as you can as you shortly will have electrical problems. Plenty of good threads dealing with this. Best of luck getting it sorted

:+1:

:+1:

In the back,

Iv already had the problems with the pollen filter that has been bined and the holes totaly sealed

...when I had water ingression in the front...

This is the bit I was referring to...

so have you totally blocked off the pollen filter hole ? Is that safe to do ?

thanks

so have you totally blocked off the pollen filter hole ? Is that safe to do ?

thanks

I've sealed between the bottom of the pollen filter housing and the bulkhead.

It's well discussed on various threads here, or you can have a look in my project diary (link in sig).

(EDIT: Adjusted my response now I've realised who Chappers' comment was aimed at... )

Edited 2 September, 200817 yr by Bluefox
D'oh!

i have just read your Project Diary Can i just ask, did all that sealant fix the water coming in through the pollen filter problem ?

i have just read your Project Diary Can i just ask, did all that sealant fix the water coming in through the pollen filter problem ?

I've not noticed anything more as yet, although I've not been brave enough to lift the carpets again...

The surface is dry though so that's a good sign.

so have you totally blocked off the pollen filter hole ? Is that safe to do ?

thanks

If you follow chappers guide for removing everything, then keep on going by removing the housing altogether, remove the problematic drain bungs, they are no longer required, find yourself a slater and ask for a strip of flash-band roofing material its has a foil on one side and a bitumen backing, measure the size required and cut with a Stanley knife then the part some will think daft, place the cut out over the holes, leaving the drain ones clear and get a blow torch and with care heat the foil side until the bitumen starts to run from the sides, with a handle of any tool run it around the edges and then once cool test with a jug of water, and bobs your uncle replace everything

Skippy, do you now have no fresh air going thought the heater blower at all?

I have the same problem as well and I am seeking a solution.

Anyone please help.

55 plate 100 bhp Classic

Skippy, do you now have no fresh air going thought the heater blower at all?

No, open the window about half an inch and use recycle or the air con when it starts getting misty