I have noticed recently, (and its happening pretty much all the time now) whenever I decide to give the car some stick, the revs get to around 3500 and then the turbo cuts out making the car very slow and heavy. The MPG takes a right old dive too...

It's easy enough cured, I can just turn the ignition on and off again and it works, but sometimes does it again the next time I give it some beans.

Any ideas anyone? Its really beginning to wind me up, as I am saving for a remap and don't want to have to spend cash on a turbo...

Also, if it is the turbo, is it easy to uprgade the turbo to a meatier one?

(My car is a 2001 110hp TDi)

Thanks

This sounds like the old sticky turbo problem. Crap builds up and jams the vanes in the turbo causing overboost and the car goes into limp mode.

You can get it stripped down and cleaned out.

Do a search and all shall be revealed...

If your coming over next Thursday I'll run a code check and see if you have any faults logged!

Sticky turbo problem almost certainly.

Re upgrade the one off a the 130 or 150 engines will fit with a bit of hose adapting. I have a fabia 130 one on our 110 Octy. Didnt make a huge amount of difference but it was the right price :D

A strip & clean would probably be the answer. As Trundlenut said a search on the forum will throw up a few threads, its a very common problem. Dont go the dealer route as they will only say a new turbo & thats :eek:kin expensive

Give it a lot of welly! When I first got my 110 TDI, it used to do it all the time, but it had only done 4000 miles in the previous year.

I do close on 20,000 a year, mainly on motorways, and hardly ever encounter it now.

Maybe we should have a sticky turbo sticky thread...

This does come up rather frequently.

Give it a lot of welly! When I first got my 110 TDI, it used to do it all the time, but it had only done 4000 miles in the previous year.

I do close on 20,000 a year, mainly on motorways, and hardly ever encounter it now.

agreed, get those swing vanes moving! rag the old girl for a bit and see if it opens up.

swing vane VG sucks, sliding nozzle VG is clearly the way........ but then i am a bit biased!

It won't blow out. It's not sat in the exhaust path, the parts that seize. It's behind the vanes on the control ring and the cast machined surface it runs in rust takes hold and carbon builds up. Sometimes we see them with just carbon issues, but sometimes little carbon but heavily rusted. One thing is for sure, when all that is in there - no permanant fix unless it's rebuilt or a new turbo is fitted.

There are some checks such as a N75 output test and requested vs actual boost to ensure it's not the control system. Even just a vacuum gauge on the actuator vacuum pipe at idle is a start, before you condem the VNT. Having said that, it's nearly always the VNT needing rebuilding, which only a few people do but is a lot cheaper than a rebuilt turbo.

Greg.

agreed, get those swing vanes moving! rag the old girl for a bit and see if it opens up.

swing vane VG sucks, sliding nozzle VG is clearly the way........ but then i am a bit biased!

What's the difference between the Garrett VNT system and Borg Warner (KKK) VTG system then?

The 110bhp engine has the Garrett GT1749V, and some of the the 130bhp engines use the Borg Warner KKK BV39. As far as I can see they are both swing vane systems, so where is the difference in reliablity?

Basically, get a proper British designed turbo on there! Holset HX20 should do... www.cummins.com/turbos - Holset HX20-25-27. (Just joking by the way, it won't fit!)

Check out the Holset VGT system though.

If popular opinion on here is anything to go by, the KKKs are made of papier mache and sticky-back plastic, but mine's been OK these last 68,000 miles...

If popular opinion on here is anything to go by, the KKKs are made of papier mache and sticky-back plastic, but mine's been OK these last 68,000 miles...

Replaced mine with a KKK from a fabia, cars remapped & its taking all the abuse I can throw at it. Out if interest do both get sticky with time or are the KKK's better for this ??

If your abusing it then it will probably keep on working fine, odd as that sounds.

I think problems start to occur when you potter about at low revs the whole time and never get the vanes moving. Seems very common with taxi's which makes sense.

Greg obviously has some hands on experience with this though, so it's probably best to ask him what he thinks about the reliability differences.

If your abusing it then it will probably keep on working fine, odd as that sounds.

I think problems start to occur when you potter about at low revs the whole time and never get the vanes moving. Seems very common with taxi's which makes sense.

Greg obviously has some hands on experience with this though, so it's probably best to ask him what he thinks about the reliability differences.

I tend to drive our diesel very hard, it often sees 100+ on the speedo & I tend not to put cheap fuel in it yet ours started to play up at about 110,000 miles so Im guessing its an age thing. The car did have about 2 months off the road after a prang just before it started playing up so this might have contributed, not being used might have encouraged it to gum up

Bodge is about right. However I have had then in from 70k to 170k and look after one car at 220k which hasn't been touched and runs bad (lots of smoke/soot - owner doesn't want to shell out for recon injectors) and it's still on the original turbo just fine.

The way you drive as Bodge says can have an effect, but to a certain extent it's just 'one of those things' and once repaired should do at least a similar miliage again before it goes wrong again.

I can't give a reason why some are so rusted and some so sooted up, other than to say that maybe the sooty ones are the hard driven ones which are down the motorway every day, so the turbo doesn't get left sitting damp regularly, and the rusted ones seem to more often be the lower miliage ones which maybe potter round town in the rain then get parked for a week outside and allow more overall chance for rust to build up.

IMHO by the way, the turbo's are excellent. Never had a bad core yet and so far always been able to rebuild the VNT, how these turbos perform and spool is just fantastic. GREAT to drive compared to the TD's of old! Although the VNT issue isn't ideal, once in 100,000 miles to fix it seems worth the drivability. I have no experience with dual scroll or other VN systems to know if they work as well but without the long term carboning up issue. Given how long it takes for the problem to occur (eg once in your lifetime of ownership of the vehicle, if you are unlucky) I don't think I'd be put off using a VNT even on a project car where I could have any turbo. Other than maybe for a series twin turbo setup and even then maybe VNT on the small one would be good...

I have only EVER seen a Garret VNT on a VW - not to say there are not others, but I have only seen VNT of the likes of the GT1749V. One of the guys who works in the dealerships and sees more throughput than I do can probably say what non-Garret VN type turbos may also be used on the newer stuff.

Regards, Greg.

If your abusing it then it will probably keep on working fine, odd as that sounds.

I think problems start to occur when you potter about at low revs the whole time and never get the vanes moving. Seems very common with taxi's which makes sense.

Greg obviously has some hands on experience with this though, so it's probably best to ask him what he thinks about the reliability differences.

My has regular exercise so always spooling to keep the **** out

Hi there, yes definately VNT nozzle ring sticking, common problem. i am in the turbo business so know this well.

AET Turbos can offer a full repair service for very reasonable money

check them out on the web or give them a ring.

Hi there, not much difference between them, they all work using the same principle. a nozzle ring inside the turbine housing that is controlled by the wastegate actuator.

one is no better than the other!

Hi there, yes definately VNT nozzle ring sticking, common problem. i am in the turbo business so know this well.

AET Turbos can offer a full repair service for very reasonable money

check them out on the web or give them a ring.

Do you work for AET then?

yes correct

I have noticed recently, (and its happening pretty much all the time now) whenever I decide to give the car some stick, the revs get to around 3500 and then the turbo cuts out making the car very slow and heavy. The MPG takes a right old dive too...

It's easy enough cured, I can just turn the ignition on and off again and it works, but sometimes does it again the next time I give it some beans.

Any ideas anyone? Its really beginning to wind me up, as I am saving for a remap and don't want to have to spend cash on a turbo...

Also, if it is the turbo, is it easy to uprgade the turbo to a meatier one?

(My car is a 2001 110hp TDi)

Thanks

I know how you feel I have a similar car with same fault my problem is convincing the dealer to repair it under warranty. they can,t decide if it is the tubo or the mass air valve I think they called it. It seems the second hand skoda car warranty dose not cover intermitant faults or faults they can,t see.

Regards clive Bemment_m

Ahh OK, I work for Cummins Turbo Technologies (Holset) over in Huddersfield. So not too far away from you guys.

I used to live near a guy in Huddersfield with a black subaru impreza all stickered up with AET Turbo graphics, guessing it's one of your cars? Sounded awesome!

Just out of interest, do you get many people wanting Holset turbos on their road cars?! I've seen a few guys in the US with HX35's on 1.8T's.

Ah yes, i live in Huddersfield also! the Subaru is AET'S demo car

dont really get any interest for Holset units going on cars, too big really for most applications unless you have something special!

mainly running KO4 hybrids/IHI or GT28/30's on 1.8t's