im looking to find in wich port wich vacuum hose goes into, the reason for this is im thinking that the vacuum advance in my felicia is set wrong, some engines use 0 vacuum @ idle for the vacuum timing advance system, some use full vacuum @ idle and im not sure wich is the correcto one for my felicia GLX (carburator model)

if you can send a pic of where the vacuum line for the timing advancer goes to in the carb i'll be more than happy

Thanks

You know the problem here; Euro spec Fellies, and most if not all Euro spec Favorits, have fuel injection!

I'd guess your carb is a Jikov, so I'd expect the Estelle to work the same. DaveRapid?

i am sure its not use full vacuum.

a few months ago i've cleaned my carburator, after that i ve problem at idle.. its stalling and knocking but everything is fine while around 3000rpm.

then i checked ignition timing with strobe gun.

omg:eek: its idleing over 20 degrees of advance far away from marks on the block

and when revving engine its not falling down till 3000rpm..

i am sure its idling 10 - 12 degrees with vacuume advance hose connected to distributor.

and while revving advance is increasing rapidly.

check this picture one hose is for high load conditions its controlling second throttle butterfly.

and other one goes for vacuume advance for distributor.

probably you will find problem at there..

What Ahmed says all makes perfect sense, as long as my memory of the Jikov being a vacumn secondary compound is correct.

I've never actually seen a Felicia with a carb, but I'm fairly sure that they had the same carb as the UK spec Mk1 Favorit. It's a Jikov copy of the Pierburg 2E, a carb that was used on various VW's and Vauxhall's in the late 80's.

It's very important to check that the rubber carb to inlet manifold mounting isn't split and leaking air...this will cause all kinds off odd running issues.

Make sure the carb's earth connection is good as it's rubber mounted. If it isn't, the idle solenoid won't work.

TBH I'm unsure which vacuum connection is the correct one for the distributor vacuum advance unit, it's been ages since I worked on an old Favorit! I would suggest asking "Surprising Skod" if he wouldn't mind taking a pic of his vacuum pipes and where they go...he has a Mk1 Favorit, [used to be my mums!].

These carbs are not in any way related to the Jikov carb used in the rear engined cars.

jup, thats the carb, and those are the vacuum ports that are in the back the first one, on the side of the idle screw is a iwer vacuum, @ idle is give no vacuum, and is not a lineal increase wile accelerating, that one is conected to the ignition advance, the other one while rapid aceleration it gives out a high vacuum and then drops to normal, that is conected to two diaframs in sequence, i belive this is what you are talking about heavy load, and im guessing due to my simtoms that this is where the problems lies, is not working, guess my resolve will be to clean the hole carb, take it apart and check all the seals and make a ground strap for it to make sure is in propper order..

my mechanic sujested taking the engine apart to check the valve chain, dint think that would ber a good idea (it would definetly not be a cheap one) but the chain does rattle a bit (you can hear it) but not that much and definetly not as much as to give me valve timing problems

point blank porblem is with heavy loads (going up a hill, overpassing a car in the highway etc..) is definetly not working... do you thing carb cleaner on the ports might help ?

In the general case, as Dave says.

In Tonny's case specifically, unless the timing chain is VERY NOISY, I'd suspect the carburation rather than a valve timing issue, not least because the noise comes from the slack side of the chain whipping, and the timing from the tight side.

In the general case, as Dave says.

In Tonny's case specifically, unless the timing chain is VERY NOISY, I'd suspect the carburation rather than a valve timing issue, not least because the noise comes from the slack side of the chain whipping, and the timing from the tight side.

mechanic said timing in the chan is of by one tooth, but i dont know what would be the tell sings (how to spot) of that, im going to recheck valve clearance since last week wen i did it the engine was slightly warm (maybe it needs to be stone cold) buts i realy dont think thats it.

if i set the timing with the vacuum i get a beutyfull idle with full vacuum and a very serene drive, but if i put the smallest ammount of load like passing or going up a hill (it realy doent matter how big the hill is) i get pre-detonation sound, thats why i though it was the vacuum going to the dizzy to adjust the timing, in a lot of car, the timing is adjusted for load conditions via that vacuum hose, in fact if i put the vacuum hose to the plenum (full vacuum @ idle, vacuum drop while load and/or fast acceleration) i can set the ignition time to full vacuum and get a good responce in acceleration / load, though my car feel weak and scrawny, carb engines have more torque than fuel injected (though less fuel eficiency)

another question, does the car run a slighty lean mix @ idle or slighty rich ? i can get soft idle with both so i realy dont know wich is the application for the feli/combi-favorit/forman with carbs

remember that the reason im trying to fix this is because the car is not giving me propper fuel economy after setting checking all the things in my "fuel economy checklist"

I can't do the sums to tell you how far the swing in the valve timing would be, but I can tell you how to find it if the chain is a tooth off on one of the drive sprockets. Anyone fancy counting teeth on them for us?

Turn the engine to get a number 1 cylinder valve, either valve, fully open. Now open the distributor cap and check the relationship between the rotor arm and the contacts on the cap. The centre of the rotor arm should line up with one of the contacts for zero advance, or be out of line by the number of degrees advance you're running. You should be able to read this off the timing scale next to the crankshaft pulley. If it's significantly different, then your mechanic is right about the valve timing being out.

Back in the day, my mates and I always used to set engines up slightly lean on a hot idle for best economy, but you want to run slightly rich for best power.

I can't do the sums to tell you how far the swing in the valve timing would be, but I can tell you how to find it if the chain is a tooth off on one of the drive sprockets. Anyone fancy counting teeth on them for us?

Turn the engine to get a number 1 cylinder valve, either valve, fully open. Now open the distributor cap and check the relationship between the rotor arm and the contacts on the cap. The centre of the rotor arm should line up with one of the contacts for zero advance, or be out of line by the number of degrees advance you're running. You should be able to read this off the timing scale next to the crankshaft pulley. If it's significantly different, then your mechanic is right about the valve timing being out.

Back in the day, my mates and I always used to set engines up slightly lean on a hot idle for best economy, but you want to run slightly rich for best power.

That's a greAta trick to check for valve timing, i'll do that as soon as posible cus i think i can have an affect on power output and economy

update, after i loged out i rechecked valve clearance, stone cold, afte wich i reset the vacuum hose to the original position, i knew that the problem was on the load adjustment so i checked the vacuum and hose conections, guess what...

the vacuum hose for advance goes into a port that is lable B (the top one) on the vacuum adjuster on the carb, there is another hose that goes out ond A (bottom one) and goes to a vacuum sensor on the right side of the carb (if your looking at the carb from the front of the engines) theses two hoses where not in theyr right place, so the vacuum adjustment for load was discapasitated and the vacuum sensor not reading vacuum presure.

i put them together and now i dont hear knowcking at acceleration or load, and i have the most beautyfull idle with full vacuum

to finish of i accelerated the car to 2000rpm and set the ignition time to get the best vacuum there, then de accelerated while adjusting idle mix and idle speed until i got a smooth and very low idle (500rpm or less) then increase the idle to 800rpm...

will test ride this week, check fuel consumtion and but dino the cars performance, after i'll read the spark plugs and make final adjustments to ignition time and fuel mix, everything looks promising right now and afterwards i'll clean the carb and vacuum ports buy/install new strong vacuum hoses and flush engine (change oil and water with cleaner to fix obstructions)

still looking to buy the Thermostat

Thanks to the guy that sent the picture and the explanations, it help me fix the problem and saved me about $3,000 pesos in repairs (about 250 dollars)

did the readings on the spark plugs, nice and dry, grayish color, only thin i did is set the gap for 0.88mm since it read it needed more (was before at 0.80mm NGK plugs) and enriched the mix a bit to have the tan color instead of gray... the car's fuel economy is higher and feels great....

thanks a mill for the help with the vacuum

No problems; the plugs sound like they're a nice healthy colour too.

If you still use leaded fuel, the inside of the exhaust tailpipe should be a pale grey colour too. That's a lead compound though, so it only applies to leaded fuel.

No problems; the plugs sound like they're a nice healthy colour too.

If you still use leaded fuel, the inside of the exhaust tailpipe should be a pale grey colour too. That's a lead compound though, so it only applies to leaded fuel.

no, whe dont use leaded fuel here in the Dominican Republic, what whe do use is 3000(regular) and 8000(high octane) fuel, some with aditives, the thing is whe get our petrolium from agentina wich has a lower grade petrolium and thats where the gray color comes from, or the aditives i recomendo XP³ if you have it where you are

Trust me; a white or grey coating inside an exhaust tailpipe (not on the plug noses) shows the use of Tetra-Ethyl Lead as an octane booster; any chemist, and most mechanics my sort of age, will confirm this.

Trust me; a white or grey coating inside an exhaust tailpipe (not on the plug noses) shows the use of Tetra-Ethyl Lead as an octane booster; any chemist, and most mechanics my sort of age, will confirm this.

im not to judge, but i guess ive been fooled by the gas company (and they sell the dam thing so expensive 130 pesos for a galon