Deleted due to mod doesn't work properly, will update when i find a proper way!

Edited 15 February, 200917 yr by vrsmeansyellow

EDIT: Delete

Edited 15 February, 200917 yr by vrsmeansyellow

Excellent detail in the pictures

Edited 28 January, 200917 yr by WW_VRS
spelling

EDIT: Delete

Edited 15 February, 200917 yr by vrsmeansyellow

Just so you guys know. The relay was making a weird humming noise today when i got in the car, so its been dissconnected.

Don't think it likes being switched off by two feeds. Rather than taking power away from it completely.

I will search out a new way to connect it and update asap.

All too often ,written words in a forum seem to get taken the wrong way ,so this is my take on the above ,offered as a suggestion ,not critism .(Of course the usual onus is on the reader to decide if this would work,and is safe etc)

According to relay in front of me -85& 86 are relay coil,30 & 87 are contacts .

If this is correct then coil could be trying to operate from +12 through relay coil to earth(ground) via door light .

Might be worth looking at using switched live to door to operate relay to ground .

Circuit would then operate --door opened,+12 applied to relay : relay operates ,contacts short out headlamp switch ,operating headlamps .

Think this is what you were trying to achieve .

Edited to add - not a bad idea too to add reverse diode accross relay -gets rid of spikes & surges into electrics as relay drops out and also has nice side effect of making relay slow to release ,resulting in time delay on switch off .

Edited 29 January, 200917 yr by VWD

Nice guide.

But a scotchlock (shudder) is going to last about five mins in a flexible door loom).

Thanks for the comments guys, i don't take them as critisism, and agree about needing a switched live and a ground, was just following the other guide but although it works on his polo, isn't quite right for the fabia's wiring.

It does look great though, and once i fix the wiring it will be up and running

And the scotchlock should be ok in the door, its not getting crushed and moves with the rubber very slightly.

Laters!!

Nice guide.

But a scotchlock (shudder) is going to last about five mins in a flexible door loom).

Quite agree .

Could try using crimps .Find crimp to take the two wires to be spliced (best by trial and error-or stick them in and crimp,then pull gently).Next , strip single a bit extra and double(Again pull test) .Cover whole crimp with slightly larger heatshrink ( insulates ,adds strength and prevents unseen stray wires causing problems) ,add jointing compound/moisturebarrier (or even Araldite ) to the ends and heat ( Commercial jointing kits have resin which flows when heated -so similar).You could try and find jointin kits ,but probably very expensive .

Bingo - you've got a solid electrical joint -bit of a PITAif ever you've got to open it -but chances are you never will need to Stagger all other similar joints and fix together (with tape etc) to give strength in numbers .The main idea is to imobilise the joint area.

And - forget the cheap crimpers( and pliers/cutters etc) - for a decent job get a quality multi crimper tool .