just a quick one to find out what valves you guys are running with the ECU Evo remap, and what sort of difference you notice between the different versions? Mine is standard (not sure what version but everything else on the car was standard) but delivery seems to surge a bit.

I ran the J valve on mine for quite a while, it felt a bit quicker but vag-com logs said it was the same boost so who knows. I would still have the J valve but it went into limp mode when it overboosted on the RR and ever since kept over boosting.

Ok I don't have the same map I have Revo stage 1 but I ran the H initially then tried the F to see if it cured the stutter I was getting and it felt down on power so I reverted to the H.

Stutter was unrelated to the N75 in the end and is now gone.

H for me all the way now.

Ian

What is an N75, and what does it do?

operates the wastegate. H and J read the ecu a little slower so they hold better boost for marginally longer.

Ian

Cool...

just a quick one to find out what valves you guys are running with the ECU Evo remap, and what sort of difference you notice between the different versions? Mine is standard (not sure what version but everything else on the car was standard) but delivery seems to surge a bit.

standard for me.didnt fancy going into limp mode

Haven't gone into limp mode yet even with the cold temps

ive got a H. holds boost better definatly

cured the surging to a point but there is still a small amount. was running 007p dv but now i have a forge split r on it i can here it dumping fractionally so next is the n249 bypass

should have that done over the weekend so will keep you posted

Hi karlbar2k

I also was thinking about an ECU Evo remap what are you findings would you recommend them.Have you noticed a great improvement in performance over standard Also how long did it take via the postal service.

Hi karlbar2k

I also was thinking about an ECU Evo remap what are you findings would you recommend them.Have you noticed a great improvement in performance over standard Also how long did it take via the postal service.

bit of a long reply but here goes:

I didnt use the postal service as I need my car daily, so I spoke to Chris and arranged to drop the ecu over on a Friday night and picked it up Saterday Morning (John@DNA had gone home otherwise they could have done it on the Friday) they really are a freindly bunch. when I refitted it to the car I didnt do a throttle body reset (apparentley needed if the ECU has been disconnected) and also when I started the car I left it warming on the drive while I did something else. My car runs LPG so when I first drove it I thought it was mental..... I figured I had wrongly run it on LPG which had not had a chance to go through the adaptation as I had not run it on petrol, and that there was no way that it was supposed to be pulling like it did. I can gladly confirm that after 2 weeks of tinkering and fixing all the little things that needed doing (turbo to pancake pipe, duff coilpack, retourqued the plugs etc) the car is insanely fast compared to what I was used to. (more economical on normal driving as well, but that could also be down to the turbo pipe?)

the pickup in 2nd from a rolling start (like rolling into traffic lights) is shocking. 4x4 helps as well as no wheel spin, my favourite stretch of road at the moment is a twisty uphill after a tight left hand turn under a railway- so coast around the corner in 2nd and floor it and even in the wet its :D:D:D:D (really need to get the bigger discs fitted SOON!!!) road runs out a lot quicker now :eek:

I spent ages on these forums before deciding to go ahead with the remap, the advice from all the guys on here helped me decide (cheers Martin:thumbup:). if you intend to make lots of changes then hold off and get a custom map done after all the other bits, but if you only want to make a few changes then a remap for £99 or £140 as they are at the moment is a no brainer as one of the things to do.

the only downside to remapping is the extra boost/strain will highlight any problems or weaknesses that are present. So make sure you have the funds available to fix the bits that are likely to need changing. (see the list above, plus N75J to limit the surging)

Right then. what can I change next? toasty warm Cupra Leather anyone?

the only downside to remapping is the extra boost/strain will highlight any problems or weaknesses that are present. So make sure you have the funds available to fix the bits that are likely to need changing. (see the list above, plus N75J to limit the surging)

Right then. what can I change next? toasty warm Cupra Leather anyone?

I have been quite lucky in that the only thing it highlighted was that my plugs needed torquing up to the correct value

I have been quite lucky in that the only thing it highlighted was that my plugs needed torquing up to the correct value

I know, Ive only ever done most jobs by hand till I got a torque wrench 2 years ago. when I changed the plugs for the LPG I used the tourqe wrench set to 30Nm and it just felt too much, but then you have issues and realise that you need to do them to that for a reason. I know some people have had the coil packs popping off due to pressure leaking round plugs. Very easy thing to overlook when fault finding as well.

I know some people have had the coil packs popping off due to pressure leaking round plugs. Very easy thing to overlook when fault finding as well.

Yes that was what made me realise the plugs needed tightening. 1 coil pack wasn't sitting right and an inspection revealed neither was the one that you can't see

ive got a H. holds boost better definatly

cured the surging to a point but there is still a small amount. was running 007p dv but now i have a forge split r on it i can here it dumping fractionally so next is the n249 bypass

should have that done over the weekend so will keep you posted

well i did the n249 bypass and its better but not 100% hesitation is fractional to what it was. next is new boost pressure pipes and a new tip.

Forgive my ignorance guys but what is an n75?

N75 = Wastegate Frequency Valve. As I understand it the N75 opens or closes the wastegate in response to instructions from the ECU. Various N75's respond slower to the ECU instructions holding the wastegate closed for longer and therefore holding stronger boost for longer.

HTH

Ian