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Boost gauge and pod fitted - Octy mk1

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After toying with the idea of fitting a boost gauge to my vRS I decided to take the plunge as I had a spare Racetech gauge lying around. I had cracked the glass on it and knowing it would be difficult getting a replacement; bought some 2mm perspex and cut/shaped the lens using a Dremmel. Next was where to place it. The A-pillar and vent were an option - although I felt it didn't look right on the A-pillar. The vent option was pricey but I could have made my own, then after reading some posts on the subject went for the mk4 Golf cowl route. Placed the order with AwesomeGTi along with a 'no buzz' t-piece. The fitting kit was from Demon Tweeks. This is the pod pre fitted to the car:

podprefit.jpg

This is the underside and as you can see the bulb holder is tight

podprefitbase.jpg

More research on the forum revealed 2 options to get the pipe to the engine bay; one was behind the glovebox, the other by the bonnet release cable. I went for the second choice. I dropped the steering column down and removed the lower dash panel. I fed the pipe and wires down the column.

The pod was a little small to sit comfortably on top of the original cowl but it was a challenge and nothing a few screws couldn't sort!

Next I squeezed a straigthened coat hunger down the release cable. The rod came out very near the inside of the wing and by the side of the fuse box. I attached the pipe and pulled the rod back into the engine bay.

Off came the engine cover. I wanted to run the pipe along the bulk head then down but it was too short even though it's about 6 foot long. A bit of re-routing under the dash and I got very close to connecting it, but I had to sacrifice any play left inside the car. This is from the release cable:

piperoute.jpg

The no buzz t-piece and connections just before I cable tied the joins:

tpiece.jpg

The car was started and there was a reading on the gauge. There was no buzzing or leaks.

Next was to wire the lighting. The light switch was removed and I tapped into the grey/ blue wire on the dimmer (my W8 interior light is already connected here). The pod was earthed on the brown wire behind the light switch.

This left securing the pod down on the cowling. I used 2 small screws at the front and the same at the top towards the end of the pod. Fabric tape was placed at the bottom edge to stop any rubbing and rattles when it sits under the dash binnacle. The edges and gaps were filled with black silicon. This is from the side before I cleaned it up, you can see the fabric tape (just behind the pod) and the wiring taped before it disappears behind the dash:

podside.jpg

And finally the pod lit up:

Copyofpodfitted.jpg

:)

Edited by dragonfly

Well done, I hate the hassle routing wires and tubing with modern cars. My Moggy has five extra gauges. Battery Volts, Rev Counter, Vacuum, Oil Pressure and Water Temperature. Must have taken all of ten minutes to run the cables and tubing :rofl:

  • Author

Yes I was surprised by the lack of access to the engine bay.

  • 2 weeks later...

Why didn't you use some very thin double sided sticky tape to bond it to the column?

  • Author
Why didn't you use some very thin double sided sticky tape to bond it to the column?

The pod was just a fraction too snug and I wouldn't have been happy with just sticking it down. The screws are all covered up.

Edited by dragonfly

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