I would imagine the vacuum and breather pipes will be minor air losses, yours looks like it's losing quite a bit of pressure.

that is not a good news ... :eek: ... I was hoping I will find a leak not faulty turbo:thumbdwn:

It's the fact that the N75 duty cycle numbers don't rise enough to hit the requested pressure. I'm sure you have seen other logs where the duty cycle will rise to around 95 before dropping when boost pressure is met.

Requested boost on yours is not met, so maybe it's the map as duty cycle should be higher than it is to try to get the pressure up.

Edited 29 June, 200917 yr by martziniuk

It's the fact that the N75 duty cycle numbers don't rise enough to hit the requested pressure. I'm sure you have seen other logs where the duty cycle will rise to around 95 before dropping when boost pressure is met.

Requested boost on yours is not met, so maybe it's the map as duty cycle should be higher than it is to try to get the pressure up.

Yep, I have realized this a long time ago, even when I changed N75 for brand new from AUDI it was still 87,5%. I have seen other logs and nobody have exactly same duty cycle, someone mentioned that it could be set by re-map like this.

Maybe it is a clue but I have no idea how to solve it …?

I believe peak duty cycle is set by the mapper most seem to be around 95. You could do to try find out who did the map.

I believe peak duty cycle is set by the mapper most seem to be around 95. You could do to try find out who did the map.

I bought a car like it is now, have no idea who did a map :(.

even at 87.5% it should still get to the required if there are no leaks. A good way to test for leaks is third gear up a hill at a speed that the engine will be running at least 3000rpm. As long as the revs dont go running away like when logging to the red line you should get the pressure and then be able to see the difference. When you did your pressure test did you isolate any noise on the turbo to pancake pipe? the socket join on the back of the engine is a real PITA and can still leak even with a revised pipe, and it doesnt always leak when using a presure test either..

When you did your pressure test did you isolate any noise on the turbo to pancake pipe? the socket join on the back of the engine is a real PITA and can still leak even with a revised pipe, and it doesnt always leak when using a presure test either..

I have done another leak test today but I was only able to go up to 15 psi - compressor couldn't pump more ...:( however I couldn't see any leaks, hoses were "full of air" - anyway I am peaking about 15 psi - could it have any connection that I could only pump 15 psi?

Could you show me on that attached picture where is pancake pipe please?

Edited 1 July, 200916 yr by sabikeuk

I have done today another test, I have unplugged hose which goes from N75 to actuator and connected pump to it, set 1psi on pump and started pump. In half sec pump stopped and actuator rod moved immediately. However when I looked to pump there was 27 psi :? .....when I unplugged pump rod moved back.

Does it mean that actuator hold 27psi and it works properly?

Anyway I have decided to test again my DV. I pushed the piston of the valve upwards against the spring (it moved without restriction). Then with the piston pushed fully up, with the spring compressed, I placed my finger over the top nipple to form a

seal. see photo 1

Then I released the piston, keeping my finger in place but piston moved about 5 mm down - see photo 2

After I removed my finger from the nipple, at which point the piston travelled another 2 mm back and made noise (shoot).

Here is re-assembled DV - I don't know what type is it - it was on the car when I bought it.

I have tested it maybe 10 times with same result. Dost it working properly or is it faulty?

I have heard strange voice from engine "again" - yes again, I heard it before...it happened in higher revs about 5500 rpm under acceleration or if I released gas as well...it is like "whhhooooo" but very deep voice......it is like if I have leaky exhaust but I don't ....

Looking at your logs it looks like it's loosing the boost around 5500rpm, so the same as when the noise comes in. So looks like it's a boost leak at peak boost.....possibly

You really need to try a standard DV to rule this out or get a compressor to get enough air up to do a proper boost leak test.

Hi guys,I just have found out that position of nut on the rod actuator is different on my TT and the other TT with same engine……Another TT has nut from end of rod to outside of the nut 16 mm however I have only 10 mm!!!

Could it cause a problem????

Not sure to be honest, do some searching on other forums and see what pops up.

Not sure to be honest, do some searching on other forums and see what pops up.

I have moved these 2 nuts on actuator rod (it took me 1 hours to move them 6mm!!!:eek:) but it worth ....now I have boost from 2000 rpm, car pushing like never before and I am very happy so far ....

I hope it solve the problem....

Thanks anyway to all of you (especially martziniuk) who tried to help me!!!

Daniel

Congrats to you for hopefully fixing the problem, is that noise noise still present?

Congrats to you for hopefully fixing the problem, is that noise noise still present?

Actually yes .... I haven't got a clue what it could be, anyway now I just want to enjoy my car ....and maybe I will try to solve it later....