Quick question as my cars up in the air atm:

The rear spring support part, are you meant to clamp this to the rear beam if you follow me? or does it just sit on top of the beam?

Quick answer if poss guys cheers

Dave

I know the KW's come with a big washer and bolt that you fix from underneath so that the spring support/perch is solid and won't move.

Edited 15 August, 200916 yr by jaymd

Quick question as my cars up in the air atm:

The rear spring support part, are you meant to clamp this to the rear beam if you follow me? or does it just sit on top of the beam?

Quick answer if poss guys cheers

Dave

Yes mate. You first need to remove the thin flat original spring seating(not easy to first see) that sits on the rear wishbone(mine was a little rusty). Then you get the Weitec bolt and large washer and install from the bottom of the wishbone up into the spring seating / adjuster.

Here is a few pics for you.

Thanks for the replies guys. I went back to it and instantly remembered someone on here mentioning not removing the locating plates when they fitted their's.

Hammered the little ****s off and bolted the gold plate from underneath covered in copper grease.

Backs all on just the fronts to crack on with tommorow, gave the calipers and disc surround thingys a good coat of fresh paint too.

Need to go out in the morning and get some spring clamps, 21mm swan neck and a 22mm swan neck for the new nuts.

Then i'm gonna need to book in at the exhaust place as the pipe is now sitting on the rear cross member :thumbdwn: :thumbdwn:

Dave

Thanks for the replies guys. I went back to it and instantly remembered someone on here mentioning not removing the locating plates when they fitted their's.

Hammered the little ****s off and bolted the gold plate from underneath covered in copper grease.

Backs all on just the fronts to crack on with tommorow, gave the calipers and disc surround thingys a good coat of fresh paint too.

Need to go out in the morning and get some spring clamps, 21mm swan neck and a 22mm swan neck for the new nuts.

Then i'm gonna need to book in at the exhaust place as the pipe is now sitting on the rear cross member :thumbdwn: :thumbdwn:

Dave

Glad you got is sorted.

Tip on the Front, start with the spring platform around 40mm up from bottom of the thread. Should stop you having to adjust it loads when setting up your ride height. Soak the original struts with WD40 around the hub clamp area first to allow it to soak in and help removal.

Should not really need to alter exhaust as that is fixed to the chassis:confused:

Mine was still in the same position when weitecs fitted.

Cheers

Mark.

Glad you got is sorted.

Tip on the Front, start with the spring platform around 40mm up from bottom of the thread. Should stop you having to adjust it loads when setting up your ride height. Soak the original struts with WD40 around the hub clamp area first to allow it to soak in and help removal.

Should not really need to alter exhaust as that is fixed to the chassis:confused:

Mine was still in the same position when weitecs fitted.

Cheers

Mark.

Cheers mate. The exhaust was rattling a little since having it fitted but figured i might as well leave it till its lowered. On rattles when on a hill or with people in the back. Gonna get him to replace the hole back section with new backbox and an oval tip too.

Gotta go halfords for spring clamps before i can get started though :thumbdwn:

it could of been me not removin the std base things lol

is it still pos to fit the rear springs without removing this plate?

I dont remember takin them off but mine have been on for just short of 2 yr now and they are all hunki dori lol. still love them.

billy

it could of been me not removin the std base things lol

is it still pos to fit the rear springs without removing this plate?

I dont remember takin them off but mine have been on for just short of 2 yr now and they are all hunki dori lol. still love them.

billy

you could i guess fit the rear spring seat sat on top but it would be very dangerous imho.

If you remember bolting through with the big gold plate then you must have removed them.

Mine were also stuck and very very disintegrated .

Dave

lol

I am confused, I didnt take anything off other than the spring, and a rubber thing that went into the spring,

The base lifters are bolted on tho, mine might of been that bad that they wernt there? mmm

well she is fine so it must be ok,

Can anyone confirm tho that the LCR ones that are 1020kg are stiffer on the rear too? or are they the same as the octy? also are the dampers slightly diff from the octy ones as in softer or harder?

billy

lol

I am confused, I didnt take anything off other than the spring, and a rubber thing that went into the spring,

The base lifters are bolted on tho, mine might of been that bad that they wernt there? mmm

well she is fine so it must be ok,

Can anyone confirm tho that the LCR ones that are 1020kg are stiffer on the rear too? or are they the same as the octy? also are the dampers slightly diff from the octy ones as in softer or harder?

billy

They are stiffer at the front as they are designed for the heavier 225 bhp engine weight but fit perfectly

lol

I am confused, I didnt take anything off other than the spring, and a rubber thing that went into the spring,

The base lifters are bolted on tho, mine might of been that bad that they wernt there? mmm

well she is fine so it must be ok

You can't get the new spring platforms on without removing the old spring plate first, so your fine mate. Trust me, I tried! The old plates can stick to the springs, so that's probably what happened to you. The first spring I removed took the plate with it, and I didn't notice, that's why the second one surprised me so much!

I can imagine Bandit is hard at it now! I'm sat on the sofa rubbing down some wheels with a cup of tea, ahhh it's a hard life!

lol

I am confused, I didnt take anything off other than the spring, and a rubber thing that went into the spring,

The base lifters are bolted on tho, mine might of been that bad that they wernt there? mmm

well she is fine so it must be ok,

Can anyone confirm tho that the LCR ones that are 1020kg are stiffer on the rear too? or are they the same as the octy? also are the dampers slightly diff from the octy ones as in softer or harder?

billy

Definatley can't leave the old spring platforms on as Bodge states cause I nearly missed them out to. It would not surprise me that some folks cars may not have these if suspension has been changed in the past as they get rusty.

Can confirm the LCR weitecs are 1020kg front and back. I think the dampers are the same just the spring rating is different.

Still loving mine.

Just want a 25mm RARB now as the whiteline is not stiff enough for me. Mind you I don't have the adjustable one so maybe could get that one next.

Rather than starting a new thread just to show my car's stance, I'll just add it here for those who care to see. I think I remember Clive wanting to see it. On a perfectly flat workshop floor with half a tank of fuel, the rim to arch gaps are all the same around the car.

And no, the house isn't mine!

Bodge, did you come up against any particular headaches on the front?

Do the droplinks provide any issues when installing? I'm aware of needing the hub splitter, a deep spanner and odd sized allen key up top that's fine, other than that from your OP it looks very straight forward.

Thanks.

Bodge, did you come up against any particular headaches on the front?

Do the droplinks provide any issues when installing? I'm aware of needing the hub splitter, a deep spanner and odd sized allen key up top that's fine, other than that from your OP it looks very straight forward.

Thanks.

Only tricky bits I can think of were cleaning out the rust in the bottom of the strut mount hole on the hub carrier, as the Weitecs seem to go a few mm deeper than the standard struts, and kept jamming on the rust when I pushed them down. Took me a while to figure out why they were getting jammed before they were seated right down!

Droplinks are very easy, you just remove the nut and swing to one side. As long as you get all the tools together before you start doing it, then it should be easy. Some deep offset spanners and big allen keys are needed for the top, and hub splitter for the bottom. You'll also need some spring compressors.

While you're at it get some new bearings, top mounts, inner and outer nuts for the top end of the strut. And get some new nuts and bolts for the bottom end of the strut. Makes life less stressful not having to worry about saving nuts and bolts!

Hope that helps mate

It was me that wanted to see your car, cheers bodge!

Personally i would buy new inner front strut nuts from the dealer rather than taking your own front shocks apart, if you are using new bearings and top mounts then basically all you do is take the old stuff off and fit the new stuff without having to compress your old springs. Also its def a good idea to replace all new nuts and bolts throughout.

Its not a hard job to do, its just a pain at times and having a decent jack, set of axle stands will def help too.

Bodge, did you come up against any particular headaches on the front?

Do the droplinks provide any issues when installing? I'm aware of needing the hub splitter, a deep spanner and odd sized allen key up top that's fine, other than that from your OP it looks very straight forward.

Thanks.

As members stated very easy job. Get yourself that hub splitter tool from around £10. makes removing the old strut a doddle and stop lots of cut knuckles and swearing. You can only buy it from VW and Skoda will not sell it to you.

few pics of mine fitted. Front is a little lower now:D

wow that is low lol, have you got a no for the tool mate or is it in the usfull no sticky?

I am thinkin of takin mine apart at the front and givin them a damn good clean up n re waxin them for winter.