I just fitted my Weitec coilovers this week and wanted to state how impressed i am with them for the money, they feel like the kw v2s on my mk2, and i know that they are not as good as a v2 or v3 kit they seem to offer a LOT of the performance/quality without the massive price.

Ok they are not bump/rebound adjustable and they are not stainless so wont last as long perhaps if not looked after but what they do offer is a firm but still comfortable ride with the benefit of height adjustability build by a company who know how to build proper suspension components.

They have made the car feel immediately far more planted and secure on the road, and i no longer get that feeling at motorway speeds or when pushing the car that it lacked stability.

The kit was reasonably easy to fit, i bought all new mounts, bolts etc (except rear bump stops) as i did not want the hassle of reusing the old stuff (at 70000 miles these could do with being replaced anyway!)

I did have a right pain with one of the front sturuts not coming out of the hub (despite having the hub splitter tool), this minor disagreement ended with me my angle grinder and a shock cut in half:rolleyes:!!!

I also ended up buying a 7mm caliper alan key from halfords for £4ish to get the old front struts out, also you need to find a 21mm offset spanner (easier said than done).

It is a diy job if you have all tools and a good jack and are happy taking apart suspension parts however i know some of the suppliers are doing offers on fitting especially as you will still need a full alignment done afterwards!!

It really was worth the £390........

Pics mid job and once suspension fitted (car has been adjusted on the front slightly since then)

some more pics

nice mate

I did mine myself and its a pain at times, that 21mm offset spanner mate I couldnt find one. I used a long socket I have with a bolt shaped top lol put the allan key(had to buy a separate one as that size isnt in norm sets lol) thru the middle and used an adjustable on the socket and a small pipe on the allan key to undo mine.

I am really happy wi mine and they are 2 yr+ old now.

takes 4-5 hr to do then once you done it once it will be easier next lol.

lookin very nice tho mate

billy

cheers Billy,

Yes they were well worth the effort of fitting and technically are not too difficult to do, they are just a pain in places, am going to readjust it all soon anyway when i fit my tt wishbones, r32 rack and r32 front arb. Anyway...now everything has been unseized and lubed;), it makes it nice and easy to take apart when i need.

Hi Luca,

It was great talking to you today.

Here is the pic of the front suspension I promised you. Only the items in the red highlighted box are really relevant as you are not using the other parts.

Note that the item 21 is actually a nut , don't know why they call it a threaded bush? This is the item you missed out. It has a slight lip on the bottom that sits in the rubber top mount to keep it central. This then locks the springs, bearing and top mount altogether to allow you to stick it up into the arch where you will then fit the looped bracket and 22mm nut to hold it in place in the suspension turret.

Hope this helps. Cheers Mark.

Looking good Luca.

I bought new OE top mount nuts (item 17), and didn't use the Weitec nuts. No reason, just because I bought the new OE nuts! I tightened mine with the weight of the car on the struts, so the top cup thing (item 16) didn't spin on the body (when I did it with the car jacked up, they span and kept pulling the rubbers off them).

Still not taken any photos of my cars current stance for you! I will eventually though!

Car looks great Luca!

Damian @ DPM Performance

Hi Mark, you too!

Cheers for the info again, as we said that explains why its about 10mm lower than it should have been so will readjust all next week when i fit some more parts!

Cheers Guys!

Erm

I cant remember that? iirc (was 2 year ago now) I just had the weitec coilover, the new bearing and the rubber top mount, then put it into the leg and put the top cap on and bolted it in position.

or is that not poss?

if I didnt do that would anything of happened but now?

No Billy i wouldnt worry if its not caused you problems by now, you can put it together without the original inner nut (as i did) it just all sits a bit lower and may cause slight knocking on hard bumps (depending on how low the car is) however it should have another nut (inner) as per the diagram attached by mark, so i will be redoing mine, which is no prob as i have a lot more parts to fit in the net few weeks.

I would have thought that inner nut (item 21) is pretty important. I know I fitted mine back on as it was a pain in the butt to fit! Taking it off was easy because you can just pull the old top mounts off over it to get to the nut. But refitting with new top mounts meant I needed to use a spark plug socket and spanner, with an allen key holding the strut. That nut holds the coilover together, fixes the bearing in place and locates the top mount. That top cup thing also gets sandwiched between the inner and top nuts (the top nut also acting as a lock-nut to the inner nut). Without the inner nut the top cup is going to pull down much lower until it contacts the top mount. Which will mean the cup will sit lower than normal, which may limit strut articulation when doing tight turns (if you put the car on full lock and look at the top caps you can see what I'm trying to say!).

I guess you could use a spacer instead of the inner nut if you had to. But the lip on the nut does keep the top mount in order so it sits on the bearing properly after being unloaded. I guess there's a chance that without the nut there, the top mount could get off-centre. But maybe not if you've tightened the top cup right down to the top mount. I'm just thining out loud now! Must stop rambling...........

Out of interest. The top 'cup' I keep mentioning, or 'limit stop' as noted in Bowders diagram. I saw some carbon fibre versions of these the other day, looked s****y. Anyone using anything other than standard ones? Only advantage of different ones is maybe to have chunkier/softer rubber around the edges, so they don't knock as loudly when the strut drops suddenly. Dunno, but carbon ones did look very nice!

lol, no you are not rambling it made sense.

I have tightened it right down so there is no movement, but you are right, things are a bit lower and as i am quite low on the front now i have noticed a slight knocking on big bumps.

I will refit with the nuts as you guys have done in the next couple of weeks.

I havent seen any other 'top cups', where did you see them?

mmmm

does that bolt come on the weitecs or do you reuse the one off the std stuff?

If you dont put it on, wont the spring come off?

mmmm

does that bolt come on the weitecs or do you reuse the one off the std stuff?

If you dont put it on, wont the spring come off?

Billy , no that inner nut(not bolt) does not come with the Weitecs(only the 22mm external nut). You re use the original one. I purchased new as with all the nuts and bolts I change. Don't need to just I prefer to do this.

If you don't put it on it makes the job harder to install as the springs will all be loose and not under tension, so when you re install up the wheel arch and through the supension turret you won't know if you have centralised the bearing and rubber mounting, so when you fit the top cup and 22mm nut it could cause turning problems and increase wear on the bearing. A siezed bearing will eventually snap the coil spring as folks have seen before.

And without repeating too much of Bodges nicely worded points, the rest is what he said:thumbup:

Mark

cheers for that mate,

sounds like ill need to strip it at some point and get new topmounts and bearings again.

do you recon its doable without taking the hub off the bottom?

billy

billy, depends....when you did you coilovers did you put new topmounts/bearings on?

if not its def worth doing yours at some point when you put the nut on.

Mark really knows his stuff and i think it is a good idea to refit this as he suggests, i will be doing it shortly.

I doubt you can do it without taking the strut out the hub, infact it would be an absolute nightmare and would be a lot quicker just taking the strut out the hub.

Seeing as there are so many of us doing bits on our cars at the mo, i think we should all club together and find some garage that we can hire their space/ramps for the day to make this nice and easy to do. Any thoughts....?

do you recon its doable without taking the hub off the bottom?

billy

You possibly could with a lot of swearing and cut knuckles.

I guess if you removed external nut and top hat then unbolted the drop links off the suspension and managed to lever down on the wishbone, you could possibly get your hand up the side of the struts and fit the inner nut over the rubber mount. Then you are going to have a problem getting a spanner or socket over that nut whilst somehow holding the strut in place with the allen key, and then no real space to tighten it.

With all that aggro it is probably quicker removing the strut from the hub

lol yea.

sounds a good idea lol.

I did uses new mounts n bushes mate, but will need more new ones when i put the bolt on, its been 2 years and over 25k miles and it all feels fine, mmmm

billy

lol yea.

sounds a good idea lol.

I did uses new mounts n bushes mate, but will need more new ones when i put the bolt on, its been 2 years and over 25k miles and it all feels fine, mmmm

billy

Hey Billy go to bed mate....

Are you sure you left off the inner nut. Seem to recall you fitted as per standard suspension in your thread.

ok dad lol

due to tehm still bein fine and there being nothing out of the ordinary, I prob did but thiss tread has got me thinkin. Ill have a look when I go up home as I still have my std shocks n springs, so if it is still on there then I missed itlol

kk I off to bed now.

ok,

I have just been out to the car and the thread of the shocks is up to the lip of the cup?

I can wiggle the cup a few degrees and it feels like its on rubber so I think I didnt put the nut on. doh

think ill go up home sooner rather than later, this might be an excuse to get another set lol... If only I had the money

billy

You could quickly check to be sure, without even jacking up the car.

Just remove the top nut, then slide off the top hat and have a look down the hole for the inner nut. As long as you have the offset spanner and correct allen key, it'll only take 2mins to check.

If you had some insanely long spark plug socket, you could even fit the inner nut like this! But that's pretty unlikely!

Anyway, good excuse to fit some fancy poly top mounts (they lower 10mm I think). £50 for a pair: Venom Motorsport Performance Car Parts - EBC Brakes, Black Diamond Brakes, FK Suspension, Eibach Suspension, Weitec Suspension, Supersport Suspension

You could quickly check to be sure, without even jacking up the car.

Just remove the top nut, then slide off the top hat and have a look down the hole for the inner nut. As long as you have the offset spanner and correct allen key, it'll only take 2mins to check.

If you had some insanely long spark plug socket, you could even fit the inner nut like this! But that's pretty unlikely!

Box Spanner?

If you had some insanely long spark plug socket, you could even fit the inner nut like this! But that's pretty unlikely!

It just so happens I do and a long reach allen key which you are welcome to borrow if you need to Billy.