I was taking some pics around the car today and took some underneath. There seems to be rust already around the track rod end joints. There seems to be some in another pic around the bottom of the front offside shock absorber.

I took delivery of this 'new' car on 16/09/09 so I wasn't expecting this. It looks like it may have been assembled using rusty parts, as the nut on the rusty thread isn't rusting (although that does have some plating on it).

Anyone else here with 'new' rusty parts?

Same on my front shocks. There is a lip towards the bottom (sorry, no photo) and the top is rusty.

Id have said its perfectly normal personally, certain grades of ferrous metals can rust up in less than an hour, just think of it as natural threadlock :P

I'm not worried in the slightest. A bit of a coincidence that I had the wheels off yesterday and noticed it.

Id have said its perfectly normal personally, certain grades of ferrous metals can rust up in less than an hour, just think of it as natural threadlock :P

Just look at is as higher labour costs as the garage won't be able to unscrew the nut. Yes some metals can rust in less than an hour, you only have to look at brake discs a few minutes after washing them, but the bolts used on the suspension/steering etc should have an anticorrosion treatment. :(

Must remember to check mine tomorrow.

Rust is a bit of serious term to be fair. Just a bit of light surface corrosion in my book

Steve

It may be light now but it's still quite new and once it's started it will no doubt get worse.

Get underneath the car on the weekend with a wire brush, give them a quick going over and slap a bit of grease on them - jobs a good'un

Enter Waxoyl stage left...

Only go out in the dry and get one of these

Air Chamber - 5.2m x 2.2m x 1.8m AirCh-MedWide

It may be light now but it's still quite new and once it's started it will no doubt get worse.

For cast iron maybe, but not necessarily for carbon steel. My toolbox is full of 'rusty' carbon steel tools inherited from my grandad, and the top-tube of my old cromoly steel Rocky Mountain has a pair of scratches down to the metal that are more patina-ed than rusty...

It may be light now but it's still quite new and once it's started it will no doubt get worse.

No doubt? You sound very confident - how do you work that one out? :rubchin:

No doubt? You sound very confident - how do you work that one out? :rubchin:

Maybe he knows Skoda source their fasteners off the 'bay. Call Watchdog! :holmes:

Speak to poor old Browny about his dodgy wishbones!!!

Seriously, like so much in life, its nothing a liberal application of grease won't resolve :eek:

No doubt? You sound very confident - how do you work that one out?

Unlike some metals like aluminium steel continues to rust whilst there are suitable conditions to enable the corrosion process to take place such as water, particularly salt water. This corrosion will eventually consume the steel object (aluminium forms a skin of aluminium oxide which protects the metal).

See : Rust - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

to quote from the above article :

When in contact with water and oxygen, or other strong oxidants and/or acids, iron will rust. If salt is present as, for example, in salt water, it tends to rust more quickly, as a result of the electro-chemical reactions. Iron metal is relatively unaffected by pure water or by dry oxygen. As with other metals, a tightly adhering oxide coating, a passivation layer, protects the bulk iron from further oxidation. Thus, the conversion of the passivating iron oxide layer to rust results from the combined action of two agents, usually oxygen and water. Other degrading solutions are sulfur dioxide in water and carbon dioxide in water. Under these corrosive conditions, iron(III) species are formed. Unlike iron(II) oxides, iron(III) oxides are not passivating because these materials do not adhere to the bulk metal. As these iron(III) compounds form and flake off from the surface, fresh iron is exposed, and the corrosion process continues until all of the iron(0) is either consumed or all of the oxygen, water, carbon dioxide, or sulfur dioxide in the system are removed or consumed.

See also thhis picture of a rusted bolt on the above link :

However I'm not saying that the bolt will necessarily corrode completely during the lifetime of the car but the exposed threads will continue to rust unless protected even the unexposed threads may corrode too, and the rust expands which means it difficult or impossible to get the bolt off.

I've got a steel gate (commonly called wrought iron but actually steel) which has hinges bolted on. The bolt got so rusty that the nut would not unscrew and I eventually sheared it off with very little force.

For cast iron maybe, but not necessarily for carbon steel. My toolbox is full of 'rusty' carbon steel tools inherited from my grandad, and the top-tube of my old cromoly steel Rocky Mountain has a pair of scratches down to the metal that are more patina-ed than rusty...

Chromolly steel contains chromium which will help to provide some protection in a similar manner to, but not as good as, stainless steel, especially if it is not often wet.

Seriously' date=' like so much in life, its nothing a liberal application of grease won't resolve [/quote']

I would not advise putting a lubricant on the exposed threads of screws that are being used on critical components like the suspension (unless there are locking devices on them) as there is a remote chance that they could work loose.

I've found that this anti-rust treatment by Loktite is quite effective at converting the existing rust into a coating that prevents or retards further corrosion. Loctite Rust Remedy - 90ml Bottle 88781006: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

Edited 6 October, 200916 yr by jzc008

i now feel very enlightened about rust!

I've got a steel gate (comonly called wrought iron but actually steel) which has hinges bolted on. The bolt got so rusty that the nut would not unscrew and I eventually sheared it off with very little force.

I've had that problem with rusty threads before. If there's room you can get a die on, to recut the thread but not always possible.

I've found that this anti-rust treatment by Loktite is quite effective at converting the existing rust into a coating that prevents or retards further corrosion. Loctite Rust Remedy - 90ml Bottle 88781006: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

I have some similar stuff which turns rust to magnetite. I think this joint is a 'cone' interference fit which needs a wedge to break (or 2 heavy hammers) even when the nut is off. There seems to be rust on the u/s of the steering arm similar to some underneath a nut at the top joint. It almost seems like paint or other rustproofing has been deliberately left off there, unless it's being damaged by the nut-drivers used in the factory assembly.

I took delivery of this 'new' car on 16/09/09 so I wasn't expecting this.

Anyone else here with 'new' rusty parts?

A new car may be older than you think.

If one picks an unusual colour and adds factory options the manufacturer has to build the car specially and it is then really a new car. Otherwise it might be a couple of months old.

Check page 1 of the Service Schedule book that came with your car. The "Documentation for date of Delivery" section has a dealer stamp and date.

This could be the date the car first came to Skoda UK and may be different from the date of first reg.

Mine is an ex-company car registered in Jan 2008 but stamped four months earlier in Sept 2007. Quite possibly dealers leave off putting the date in the book for retail customers until the car is sold and registered but standard spec cars may be hanging around the delivery chain for months before being sold.

You could try using some stuff called ACF-50, you can use it on both cars & motorcycles, just keep it away from natural rubber (latex) it will eat/rot it.

A new car may be older than you think.

I wondered about that. I know when markets tank, many cars can be sitting in the open for months. Some were even on flooded land.

Check page 1 of the Service Schedule book that came with your car. The "Documentation for date of Delivery" section has a dealer stamp and date.

14/09/09 on that page. I wonder when it was actually manufactured. Presumably some of the 'Vehicle Data' grid has this somewhere?

You could try using some stuff called ACF-50, you can use it on both cars & motorcycles, just keep it away from natural rubber (latex) it will eat/rot it.

Some interesting stuff on Jenolite, Jenoseel and phosphoric acid from farm supplies:-

Jenolite - where has it all gone? - TR Register Forum

14/09/09 on that page. I wonder when it was actually manufactured. Presumably some of the 'Vehicle Data' grid has this somewhere?

VRStu has a file : Octavia 1Z VIN Number Overview.pdf

http://briskoda.net/general-technical-guides/octavia-1z-vin-number-overview/78258/

I know this is only up to 2008 but if you were to send him a message he might have an update?

As regards the age of the car I understand that the Icarus has a 1.4TSI engine which we've had to wait typically 3-4 months for so I would presume it really is a new car and not one that has been waiting in a field to be sold.

Still, I wouldnt let it concern you, I work in the steelworks, spent first few years on rolling mills and things dont half get rusted up in there due to been covered in warm cooling water, its suprising how much rust can actually acumulate on a fastner before its beyond point of removal, then its time for the gas axe