leolito

Have a nice continuation of a bri-Skoda journey!!

It can happen ... sometimes I misread him too. Sometimes he misreads himself also 😁 Me to myself ... all the time! 🙃🤪

I have had no problems ... but I never trust their search patterns, for NO dealer/reseller, even those reliable and established ones like Rimmer Bros for my LR. Always double-check! Yes, is a small hassle yes, but it compensates by doing your own purchases and not paying extra % to a third party .... It is a classic that lots of parts are grouped/piled up by approximation, and particularly VAG is a nightmare for parts' codification. So always beware ... and don't trust the photos, unless they exactly reflect the item description and codes! I use this for checking part numbers, so far I have been satisfied: https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/SUP/851

I've not used, but seen Ridex parts and they are average aftermarket. The claim is that is an "autodoc" brand, so is similar in concept to ... for example a supermarket branding its "own" milk or dairy products. Nothing wrong per se but you have no idea of who is behind that ... not for me thanks. The established brands all have similar prices, but after years of experimentation, if I can, I buy genuine. I've started to notice this first years ago with air filters for my RRP38, the genuine item would be noticeable different than even a OEM like Mann or Mahle - thicker and lightly oiled paper elements, more supple rubber edges, and so on. Must make a difference, eh? For Skoda consumables (say for example Skoda-parts) the price difference in minimal, doesn't justify in my opinion to 'save a few quid' on parts that work on equipment which costs substantially more!

I have 10mm Eibach, see how they look on standard DCC setup. And yes, I had to buy the longer bolts, and you should too.

Perhaps is better to clarify .... disengagement and re-engagement of the gearbox is always fast and smooth, no qualms with that. My problem (repeat, mine) is that with almost 40 years of driving, I am used to "engine braking" and I use such in combination with "brakes" depending on the road, speed, conditions, and my desire at the moment. The fact that some dork has decided it's a good idea to de-couple engine from transmission in an invasive, but also random way (since depending how fast you car release the skinny pedal seems to have an effect on coasting activation) and put it in the operational logic of the vehicle without any option of selection, irkes me, and lots. Especially as I have no way to disengage such setting and tailor the vehicle to MY desire, and nevermind the stupid and absurd consumption of brake pads .... No matter what others say, this is the single most stupid feature of this car for me....

I've tried in any possible way to remove it in mine, both using VCDS and OBD11 and it proved an impossible task. Gone in all the menus "predictive sailing" et al. and nothing. I got recently the habit of driving in manual mode, since the logic of the gearbox upshifts and downshift is simply idiotic, so don't bother me much the coasting ... The few times I want to ride in 'auto' i put it on sport, or in the other modes I use the gearbox in sport, and upshift 'manual' when it lingers too much in the gears. I hope someday to make a TCU tune and hope some wizardy is able to make it gone. Since this is a sensitive topic, I remark this is "me", in "my" driving in "my" car. To each their own! 😉

Well good that the problem is solved! I failed to suggest the haldex I thought you had read pages in here and Bap's excellent procedure for checking the pump screen which indeed is a serious f-up as an entire concept, not to mention service/maintenance procedures do not include it ... All good I guess, pity at the tremendous amount of parts and work that was done .... now make sure you rev up a little that thing, life is not under, but upwards of the turbo spin! 😁😅

Not a chance ... 😁 That hat came in and out of the car with her 🙃

Just for laughs, the "horned headrest" can double as an impromptu hat-holder 😄

Sorry I missed this .... the blanket, when properly folded, can fit with the right height, right under the central armrest in the rear seat, which in my car is always in the "down" position. In summer, when not really needed, I put it under the vario floor - it tucks perfectly there.

Sorry I got it wrong then. Check online if there are any locksmith shops in your area which do car keys. Seeing the condition of your fob, it could be a consideration replace it entirely, and is not because of cosmetics: when the area where you press breaks, dirt and moisture/sweat from the skin goes inside and can ruin the electronics, far more expensive that the fob itself. While I have not done it on this car, I've replaced already 2 times in the last years to my father-in-law's Peugeot, he regularly breaks the fob (various problems) as he keeps in his pocket. Usually I buy an "empty" fob only plastic casing and transfer the board inside, as well as the blade (in his is hinged, more tricky because of the #$%#@ spring).

If your metal 'blade' in the key is broken, you should have it remade by any key specialist shop, is only the machining needed. The electronic part of the key is separated from it. I would advise against homemade attempts to "glue" this together, if your lucky you it will break in your pocket and you will lose the metal blade part, if you are unlucky it will snap when the key is in the door lock .. and you can guess how that saga would continue 😁

Great update ... the dipstick in the press had me in stitches 😁

I think you made a great choice in both counts, model and drivetrain. There is only to gain in all fronts, except tight manouvering and obviously fuel consumption when pinned against a TDi. As for the rest ... ❤️