the rear brakes on my vrs are sticking, after managing to get the wheel off (it was very very very fused), I discovered that a tap on the calliper freed up the brakes. It was not possible to turn the disc by hand previous, but after a tap span fairly freely.

However, upon applying the handbrake and releasing, it sticks again. The same applies to the footbrake.

I mentioned this in a previous post (about the removal of said fused wheel);

As for the calliper, it could be seized, or it could just be that the pads are seized in the carrier. You can't really tell until you get the wheel and calliper off.

This leads me to believe its the pads seized in the carrier as I am under the assumption that the handbrake and footbrake do not share a mechanism. Therefore ruling out the possibility of a seized caliper. Am I correct to think this?

If this is the case what parts am I looking at replacing to replace this carrier?

Cheers,

Mark

If you think it's the pads sticking in the carrier, then I don't think you'd need new carriers to sort it.

Buy some new pad retaining springs, which are the thin pressed metal things that sit between the pads and the carrier (according to Skoda you're supposed to change these every time you change the pads but nobody ever does). These can get really dirty and clogged with brake dust. Or just clean your old ones. Think they were about £7 for four when I bought them.

I had a problem with one rear caliper sticking, due to a duff handbrake mechanism. Replaced the caliper with a new one in the end. Good as gold now.

the rear brakes on my vrs are sticking, after managing to get the wheel off (it was very very very fused), I discovered that a tap on the calliper freed up the brakes. It was not possible to turn the disc by hand previous, but after a tap span fairly freely.

However, upon applying the handbrake and releasing, it sticks again. The same applies to the footbrake.

I mentioned this in a previous post (about the removal of said fused wheel);

This leads me to believe its the pads seized in the carrier as I am under the assumption that the handbrake and footbrake do not share a mechanism. Therefore ruling out the possibility of a seized caliper. Am I correct to think this?

If this is the case what parts am I looking at replacing to replace this carrier?

Cheers,

Mark

It ll almost definately be the pads seized, you need to remove the pads, remove the metal spring shim then clean the pad carrier with some rough wet and dry, if you can get the spring shims seperately then do and clean up the old pad mating suface with said wet and dry, however i think they are only available when bought with genuine pads. assemble the pads again and make sure they move freely in the carrier before re fitting the caliper, remember you need the windback tool to put the piston back into the caliper,use lots of pastilube or copperslip when putting the pads back in. hth

You can get the new retaining springs separately. I did! From these guys: Brake Parts for Cars

You also obviously only want to grease the surface of the retainers and the 'ears' of the pads. The pads should have sticky backs so avoid getting grease near them.

Might be worth pulling out the guide pins too, and re-packing them with fresh grease, and refitting with new boots. You don't need any tools for that, just your hands, so it's easy! Just a 'while you're there' job.

Do you have the part numbers for the retaining springs/ spring shims and the boots at all? just to save any possible mix up when I order the bits. Will replace it all at once and probably do pads and discs too as quite worn.

Thanks for your help

Mark

Do you have the part numbers for the retaining springs/ spring shims and the boots at all? just to save any possible mix up when I order the bits. Will replace it all at once and probably do pads and discs too as quite worn.

Thanks for your help

Mark

The retainer springs should be available from a good motor factors when you get the other parts.The boots (gaitors) normaly only come with replacement calipers or guide pin kits.

It may look like the pad is sticking but could well be just the guide pins.With a single piston caliper the piston pushes one pad against the disc then pulls the caliper over so the second pad makes contact.When you release the brake the caliper should move back but if the guide pins are sticking it can't.

Probably 70% of calipers replaced due to brake imbalance at MOT time,just needed the pins cleaning up.

This is why Lockheed refused for years to produce single piston calipers,they wouldn't record the number of duty cycles considered as the norm.Dual piston calipers will keep working till the seals give out.

A good grease to use on pins and pad backing plate edges is Molyslip Copaslip.The stuff you get for £5 a bucket is worse that useless,you may asewll use HPM with some gold paint mixed in.:rotz: