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Which dump valve ???


Yaro

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Could you please advise me which dump valve to go for, based on you experienced. I have been thinking of Forger split R for my vRS.

What do you think? Do you have a better one in mind?

Many thanks

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Only drawback with the split R is you need to set it up carefully, especially if the car is running higher boost than usual (remapped) otherwise it tends to leak out of the atmospheric part.

But with the split-R you get the whoosh sound without needing to buy a cold air intake like you would with a fully recirc valve (e.g. Forge 007)

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Hi

Once it is done , it is set up until you replace something

Fit when cold , turn the valve all the way to the left

Then turn the engine on

As it gets warm it will make a nise , turn to the right until the noise has gone and the engine is up to temp

Give 2 more clicks , it is all set up

Forge Motorsport | Alloy Fabrication

There is the link , it may help

Sarah

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You need to have it set to either fully recirculating or half recirculating and half atmospheric, if it is all the way atmospheric it will leak boost and throw a fault code.

And as Sarah said you need to adjust the tightness of the spring by turning the top, it should be ok as it comes out of the box if you're putting it on a standard car but if you have a remap with more boost then you need to tighten the spring otherwise it will leak boost and throw a fault code (again), it's a trial and error process to find out how much you need to tighten it, too little and it leaks boost, too much and it doesn't release quick enough and the turbo gets stalled (turbo lag)

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So it I changed any part under the hood I have to set it up again? From the instructions above the set up sounds easy. Is there any valve that does not require a set up but is equally good?

Cheers

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So it I changed any part under the hood I have to set it up again? From the instructions above the set up sounds easy. Is there any valve that does not require a set up but is equally good?

Cheers

Yeah, the Forge 007P(a).

Trust me i've tried the 007P, the Split-R and the 007P(a) on my re-mapped vRS and the latter one works the best. :thumbup:

Edited by N 5 0 VRS
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Ok. How can I recognise a difference between the Forge 007P(a) and Forge007P. N 5 0 VRS says the 007P(a) is the best... and this is the one I would like to go for. The earlier picture shows 007P.

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We have the 007P DV on special offer as of Monday at £69.50 inclusive of VAT delivered :)

This is part of the 12 deals of Christmas

So may be worth checking that one out?

Sarah

Theres your winner I reckon.

You won't find it cheaper than that I don't think :thumbup::thumbup:

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Ok. How can I recognise a difference between the Forge 007P(a) and Forge007P. N 5 0 VRS says the 007P(a) is the best... and this is the one I would like to go for. The earlier picture shows 007P.

Hi Yaro, i have provided a link below to where i got my Forge 007P(a) from.

You can clearly see the difference between the 007P and the 007P(a) in the pictures.

IMHO it is worth spending the extra bit of money to eliminate the engine cover from rubbing on the vacuum hose.

Very easy fit as it's a direct replacement for the OEM one. You will just need to source some jubilee clips from some where as the original ones are non re-usable.

Also just to note it may be worth getting good quality jubilee clips that do not cut into the hose when fitted!

Full fitting instructions should be provided with the diverter valve or just go on the Forge website for a step by step guide.

I went for the anadosed Black DV as i prefer the standard-ish look on my car even if it is under the bonnet! :)

http://www.jkm.org.uk/performance/divertervalves.htm

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