Another 1.4 16v with issues!

[TriggerFish]

I have a 1.4 16v (AUB:() which has been causing me some slight concern.

Firstly, after a good run (40 miles with a 3 hour break, 20 miles each way) on A roads there is mayo around the oil filler cap, has been like this for a few days, was wondering what this is likely to mean. It wasn't doing this a week or two ago with exactly the same journeys.

Also, how long should these stay hot for? Because I can leave it for around 2 hours, drive it for a minute or so, and have the temp gauge point upwards again. I can also come back to it after about 4 hours and feel heat coming off the block. Is this normal, or is it running very hot for some reason?

Thanks for any help,

Joe.

[Big Mikey]

Running hot can be: low coolant levels, faulty thermostat, failed water pump.

Does it overheat or does the needle stay in the mid range? Are you losing coolant? Are there traces of oil in the coolant? Can you see bubbles in the coolant when you rev the engine?

[TriggerFish]

Thanks for replying.

Coolants fine, other two I don't know either way, but the heater works and I guess that would rely on the water pump.

Needle stays in the middle, but cooling fans like to kick in, espeacilly when it's a warmer ambiant temperature. It hasn't lost a noticeable ammount of coolant since I've had it, and the other two I will have to check when it's light out side again.

[kwacka]

I think the mayo may be related to the drop in air temperature, these engines seem to be particularly prone to condensation which emulsifies with the oil. Unless you are losing oil or coolant I wouldn't be too concerned, but for this reason I change my oil every 5k miles. I don't think you have an engine temperature problem either, they have a low water content and an alloy block, that combination equals a quick warm up time, a bonus in this weather! My mate has diesel and it doesn't start to get warm until he's driven about 5 miles, and he knows the thermostat is good.

[cjb]

these engines seem to be particularly prone to condensation which emulsifies with the oil.

That's true. ISTR a number of problems in very cold countries relation to that.

From Honest John (pile of crap that it can be...), about the Polo:

Below minus 8 degrees centigrade, condensation in sumps of 1.0 and 1.4 engines emulsifies and blocks crankcase breather pipe leading to lack of engine lubrication and engine failure.

I suspect it takes a pretty sever case to do that, but it does show a tendency for condensation.

[TriggerFish]

I think the mayo may be related to the drop in air temperature, these engines seem to be particularly prone to condensation which emulsifies with the oil. Unless you are losing oil or coolant I wouldn't be too concerned, but for this reason I change my oil every 5k miles.

Cheers, oil was changed about 200-300 miles ago, but it is losing some via worn piston rings.

I think mine takes about 2-3 miles to warm up in stop start traffic whislt getting out of town, sounds about right? Thats a nice point about the oil, not something I knew, so will bear in mind for future.

[ExAudiSi]

Make sure that the breather is clear as it will be more likely to block in this weather.

[TriggerFish]

Cheers, noticed it looked more clogged than normal when I looked today.

Would using a thicker (lower visosity (sp)?) oil help to reduce the emulsification?

[vRSLen]

Cheers, noticed it looked more clogged than normal when I looked today.

Would using a thicker (lower visosity (sp)?) oil help to reduce the emulsification?

No as that would take longer to warm up.

[Woolfy]

Cheers, noticed it looked more clogged than normal when I looked today.

Would using a thicker (lower visosity (sp)?) oil help to reduce the emulsification?

as vRSLen says, but..

If you have worn rings and you are losing oil into the combustion chambers, a thicker oil will have less tendancy to get past the rings, so may assist in your oil usage, and carboning up of the valves/seats and combustion chambers in the long run.

Remember though, with higher viscosity oil the oil pressure will increase, so if there are any weak spots in the oil ways/gaskets using a higher viscosity oil can cause these to go prematurely compared to using the correct thinner viscosity.

It is all a question of balancing the needs of an older engine I'm afraid, and there is no right solution in relation to changing the viscosity slightly.

[TriggerFish]

Thanks all, least of my worries now - front passenger suspension spring has decided life is more fun when it's in two pieces. Still, should lower oil consumption.