As per title...

With ASR turned off, under hard acceleration the front wheels hop and skip like mad at the moment. Will the front coilies help to stop this awful habit?

Can't wait til they are fitted! I'm still using it with only the rear setup fitted due to time.

also, I was reading another thread about xenon auto levelling. will the fact the rear is lowered and the front not, mess up the beam? I assumed it would be the equivilent to having something heavy in the boot?

why would you have the rear lowerd and the front not??

this is something that you should deffo not do the car will be well and truly un balanced and must drive like a pig!!!

anyway have you had the dogbone mount replaced with an uprated item??

p.s just read again are you being serious the car wil be l a mare to drive and that will make it unbalanced and dangerous imo the auto level will be cocked up so really the car shouldnt be driven imo

if your going to fit suspension do it all at once the car shouldnt be driven like that,...!!!!!!!!!

IS THIS A JOKE????

It's not a joke no, but it's not going to stay like it! Don't panic, i'm refraining from driving as much as possible. For as you say, i'm sure it does handle awfully at the moment, but i've not pushed it to test it. Why would I?! I certainly don't expect any ride improvment from the current, mismatched setup!

I fitted the rears last weekend. Did them at the same time as a service but ran out of time to fit the fronts as I had trouble with getting the old shocks out. Will have another bash at it this weekend coming. Perhaps I should have stated that.

Anyway now that's cleared up...

Back to the original question. No i've not replaced the dogbone mount. Had heard this is a good place to start with wheel hop issue, and it may be a future mod. But just wanted to know for the time being, if the firmer suspension will help or whether it will be much the same?

Edit: re-reading the post, and thinking more on the subject of auto levelling. I cannot think of any reason why it will now work any different to if I had something heavy in the boot. There is less of a gap between the rear axle and the body... The same scenario as if the boot was loaded. On reflection i'm not so sure the xenons will be effected. But if anyone knows otherwise i'm willing to accept if i'm wrong.

Not that it matters hugely as it should only be like it for a few more days, and i've made it through this week so far only having to do one journey! It's more of a "what if" scenario than anything else.

Edited 18 November, 200916 yr by Jcb.

I don't know If the suspension will cure It??

The powerflex (or similar) dogmount Is a cheap thing to buy & replace so why not do It when you change the front suspension? It was the first mod I did & probably the best one.

Also with the dogmount mod fitted, It reduces the engine movement under acceleration & also allows better & noticable power transfer to the wheels & totally stops wheel hop:thumbup:

Wow, sounds like a winner! Are the mounts universal to all engines? Or am I on the look out for one suited to a diesel do you know?

Thanks.

Wow, sounds like a winner! Are the mounts universal to all engines? Or am I on the look out for one suited to a diesel do you know?

Thanks.

You will need one specified for a diesel engine (lower Durometer value), otherwise your teeth will fall out!

They seem to vary from 70 - 90 from what I've seen. The Duro scale runs from 0 - 100, and is basically hardness.

I recently replaced my knackered dogbone mount with another standard one and even that cut down on wheelhop by a lot.

I dont think the front coilies will do anything mate as i think that the wheel hope is caused by engine movement too, this is why the Dogbone bush is the best option.

Replacing the std with new std will sort it out for a while but due to the std being rubber it will degrade faster and is generally softer than the Polyurathane bushes.(Have I spelt that right?)

I personally cant see the problem in having the rears done and not the front so long as the rears are wound up so the back isnt too low, that gives the damper more movement and if you have weitecs like mine they are fairly simmilar in feel to std so so long as you just drive calmly and not fast and boot it every were then the car will be fine to use.

cant se it being too dangerous obviousely depends on the driver.

you will need to match it up tho as I cant see insurance pauying out should something happen.

Yeah, it's not really being driven til it's been done so no worries there. What sort of money are you looking at for a decent aftermarket dogbone mount?

Yeah, it's not really being driven til it's been done so no worries there. What sort of money are you looking at for a decent aftermarket dogbone mount?

Not that much, Awesome do them and will give you discount

Awesome > Neuspeed 1.8T Engine Torque Damper Bushing

And this is the powerflex one that is also good value.

Powerflex

Item number 8 in the upper pic. Part number PFF85-420.

The powerflex one has been used on a number of folks cars on this site with good results. Some of the other makes can make for a vibrating ride and they are very strong bushes. Not tried the neuspeed ones. All the bushes need to bed in for a few hundred miles till the vibration dies down. But well worth the mod. Makes wheel hop much reduced.

Many thanks for the links. Quite a cheap modification! Is it fairly easy to carry out? Major equipment needed? I may well contact awesome to see if they can reccomend some slightly softer ones, that still improve over OEM, but don't create an abundance of vibration from the tractor engine.

A mechanic recommended the R32 Dog bone mount - has anyone tried this? Thanks.