A mate and I have just been to look at an MX5, which is 19 years old. First impressions are very good although I wouldn't mind your opinions too. its done 152K (definitley miles I have checked as some are K/m). Spec wise it is a bog standard early MX5, with electric windows, no air con or central locking, although has power steering too. History only spans the past few years (past MOT's), so no service book etc. There was one service record from 2 years ago.

Paint work was good, a few minor rust patches, the odd scratch and very small dent - quite impressive for something which is nearly 20 years old. There was a more substaintial scratch which seemed to be covered by a sticker, although this was certainly not structural (just behind passenger door). The engine started fine, slight rattle on startup, no blue smoke, idle was fine, gearbox and clutch felt ok too. I couldn't see any oil leaks, and the oil on the dipstick seemed reasonable for its age and milage. The heater came up to temp as well when we had it running, the oil pressure and temperature guages were ok as well.

It has a new hood, which needs protecting but was in excellent condition. The interior was good considering its age. There was some condensation in the boot, and the underneath of the hood, but it has been standing for a bit so I have been told. The jack, spare wheel and wrench were present. The pop up lights worked well, as did the others.

The brakes were good, the only concern was a wheel bearing needs changing - which we were told about. The chap was very open and honest about all aspects of it.

So I would be grateful for your thoughts. Have I missed anything? The only pitfalls I can see is poor history, wheel bearing needs replacing, very very small amount of mayo on the fuel cap - levels appeared to be fine, and as far as I can tell the head should be alright considering the heater warming up. The electric windows a bit slow. Apart from that it was ok considering its age and mileage.

have a good poke around underneath, everywhere, they can rust, check around where the hood drain holes go through the body, if these have been blocked its rusts inside the rear

you say the engine heated up nicely, but did the cooling fan cut in ? they can overheat if it doesn't work

rear calipers can seize, discs front and rear can corrode badly

timing belt tension spring can break and drop into the belt, safe engine though, so no valves bent if belt fails

make sure you get 2 keys, they can be a pain to program if a key is req'd

I'm running around in a 15 year old one at the moment and it's a great little car. It is a eunos though, so an import which benefits from the 1.8 engine, LSD and some other bits. Starts on the button and handles well for an old car.

The one you've looked out sounds like a reasonable example for the age.

Hi,

I have a 1995 mx5 1.8is and have had for the last 11 years so am probably pretty qualified to comment...

Basically thay are solid cars if looked after but a few pointers...

152K isn't bad and many do go for much longer - the engines are strong as they were basically a Mazda Familia turbo engine without the turbo. They do need regular oil changes though - at least every 6k mls with an engine flush and semi-synthetic (not fully synthetic) to stay in good nick.

Spec wise it sounds like a UK car (A/C was an expensive option on UK cars but generally standard on imports). It will be an early 1.6 so power will be 116bhp with a shorter final drive so similar in performance to the later 1.8 and much better then the later 90bhp 1.6s

The lack of history is a slight concern wrt the oil changes etc.

Does it start easily, run well and tick over steadily when coming to a halt. If not the problems are usually sorted by plugs, leads (they go at 20k mls due to heat) and resettig the base idle.

Paint work is usually good but is thin. The plastic nosecone and rear bumper should be exactly the same colour as the rest of the car as Mazda spent a lot of time sorting the paint match. anythng else points to accident damage.

Check for rust on the lower sills just in front of the rear wheel arches. this is usually the first place to go and they rust from the inside out. mostly, if caught early it's cosmetic and can be cut out and replaced (there are three layers of steel there and the outer layer is non-structural).

The engine rattle on startup is the Hydraulic Lash Adjusters and they all do it after being sat - the Mazda oil filters have a pressure retaining valve in them to help with this but clean oil and a flush normally sorts it.

Gearbox should feel tight and mechanical with an engineered in "snick". The clutch slave cylinders can go but are easy to replace and only a few quid.

More often than not the leak oil at the rear of the head at the camshaft position sensor - a 0p seal but can be awkward to replace and if left too long can lead to the heater hoses disintigrating which can be a pain to replace.

The heater should come up to temp quickly and hover about half way on the scale with the fan kicking in regularly (the underbonnet temps get very high at up to 80degrees C)

Oil pressure should be steady at idle and on the earlier cars was a proper gauge rather than a telltale so should come up quickly, drop as it warms and then move with revs.

New hoods are pretty cheap and can be fitted by a good DIYer. If fiutted right they will not leak. older cars often need the doors adjusting by brute force to stop some leaks but it's easy to do when you know how with no tools needed.

The interiors are solid except for the gloveboxes which can be flimsy at the hinges.

Condensation in the boot is pretty common if left stood and same goes for the inside.

The pop up lights should come up together and go down together and should line up well with the bonnet - again easy to adjust but many owners don;t and they get leant on at service time.

Brakes should be but not as highly servoed as modern acrs - they stop well though and shouldn't pull. Sticking calipers are about £120 to replace and hot wheels after a run are the giveaway.

Was it a front or rear wheel bearing and does the car have ABS - it impacts significanlty on price and cost.

The slow electric windows probably need the rails greasing - they dry up and will snap the cables if your not careful.

So it generqally sounds OK but I would be slightly wary about the mayo on the cap but drop me a line if you want any more info.

Oh - and on 150k mls it should be on it's third set of dampers - they generally last about 60k mls - budget £450 ish plus fitting for something decent like Koni's

Edited 8 December, 200916 yr by skomaz

It would make a good little summer runabout, but thats it. A VRS is much quicker. The older 1.6 MX5's go for about £1000 to £1200 these days. Think of it being your Winter project.

Edited 8 December, 200916 yr by Soot1e

Thank you everyone for your comprehensive replies - that has been very useful.

Just go with what Mark says - blimey, what a comprehensive reply! :yes:

How much was this going for? My instinct would be to keep looking if it's a project/fun car between the two of you. As winter is upon us there should be decent buys to be had

As said, the lack of history would worry me - much better to find a car with a folder full of paperwork - they are out there, even for examples of this age.

Steve

Steve is right about cars being available out there with a folder full of paperwork - check out the OC website for a start as most on there will have been looked after but you may end up payng a few quid more.

A couple of other things to check as well when you do look are (it was alte last night)

Box sections under the car about 12" in - these are anti-drum rails and are not structual. They stop the floor resonating but can get clobbered on speedbumps with the car being low and can start underbody rust.

Same applies for the catalyst but replacements are about £120.

Listen for a sloshing noise in the sills - this is a sure sign of sill drain hooles being blocked - an opened out paper clip in the right place will sort it and give you a face full of water.

Check the hood drain holes for being blocked. If you feel below the carpet behind the seat belt towers you'll feel a small cup - this is where the hood drains to (inside the car - hence some of the condensation issues) - if there is water there then the hood drains are blocked and will need rodding out with a piece of mains flex otherwise the inside will get damp and put water iside the sills.

Also does the car track straight and feel stable? - take the car on a normal country road with a standard camber ( ie with a high point along the centreline). Try crossing over the centreline as if overtaking - if the car shimmies a bit then the chances are the alignment needs sorting. They are full adjustable front and rear via eccentric bolts on the wishbones but you need someone with a four wheel laser kit to do it properly.

Also check what tyres it's on and what the wear is like. They work best with 14" or 15" wheels - anything else will ruin the handling but these sizes can be difficult to get good tyres for and they are tyre sensitive and can be tail happy.On a UK car some rust on the rear suspension is to be expected but usually it's nothing major.

Finally if the boot has water in the well then it could be either the hood not fitted properly, the rear lights needing re-sealed or the erial drain tube disconnected.

Otherwise... GET ONE AND ENJOY!

We have a mk2 1.8 and love it , used it lots in the summer , i regularly , rod the drain holes.

The history is amazing , its all done from the supplying dealer , and the no. plates tax disc holder and key fob are original as well.

i regularly rod the drain holes.

I didn't think you were a homosexual, Pete?

I didn't think you were a homosexual, Pete?

Didnt say what i rodded em with did i

Thanks for all of the replies on this. My sister appreciated the help, and today has picked it up! It seems to be pretty good for the price she paid for it. Obviously a few jobs to do. I followed her back home after she got it, and there was no smoke (blue or otherwise) from the rear.

I think she will start by doing a regular service (plugs, leads, oil, oil filter, fuel filter), and look at the points mentioned. One or two other jobs to sort too. I expect I will be helping her with working on it, as I was very tempted to get one (although at the moment being a stingy git with my cash! :| )