Hi all, i'm new to this forum.No matter what i'm reading it with great pleasure, alot of information and thus i have one question.Recently i've replaced my old dashboard (instrumen panel) with an another one from a facelift Felicia LX (the one with a rev counter).My problem is not that my rev counter doesn't work, it is that, after the change my temp gauge and fuel meter went wrong. They are working but they're showing fault readings.I thought it was something wrong with the new dash gauges so i took my old dashboard fuel and temp meters.... But no result. The Fuel meter still show a difference in about 5-10 littres, it shows me that i've got more fuel.The temp meter goes to 120 degrees. After a month or something like that the temp gauge fixed itself, started to show real numbers, but recently again it went bad. Now i have only a rev counter and speedometar. My question is : Does anyone else have experienced the same problem,and if so how do they fixed it?

I'm open to any ideas for fixing my problem.

Edited 14 February, 201016 yr by Me4o_nyx_e_kyx*

No ideas?

Hi.The thermometer and fuel meter both work via variable resistor values from sensors working in accordance to heat or fluid level.The thermometer "reads" resistor values from ~ 300 Ohms(when hot) to ~4K Ohms(when cold) coming from the thermometer valve placed on the thermostat,and which has two variable resistors-one for the thermometer and the other for the ecu.Somewhere in the forum you may find the exact pin wiring.The fuel meter works the same way only there the resistor value derives from a floater that is part of the fuel pump and installed into the fuel tank.If I were in your shoes first I would compare the value that reaches the ecu from the thermometer valve with that of the thermometer in the instrument panel (that can easily be done with a diagnostic tool->engine coolant temperature).If the two values are the same then your thermometer is probably working ok and the thermometer valve should be checked and compared with a new one.If they are different that means that either the valve sends two different readings to the ecu and the panel instrument,or that the new panel you installed has a thermometer that works with different values of resistors than your previous one.The way to find out again is to compare your valve with a new one.You wrote that you get higher temp reading consequently the valve's output (Ohms) is lower than it should.In this case,while using the digital reading from the diagnostic tool,you could try adding resistors of small value-let's say 100 Ohms-in series one by one to the circuit that leads to your panel meter (in order to "drop" the reading on the instrument) until the digital value that reaches the ecu is the same with the reading of your meter.This way you should be able to calibrate your instrument-in theory at least-easily as the cables for the modification are exposed and with more than enough length.As far as the fuel pump is concerned I can't help you with the wiring because I never needed to deal with its wires so I don't know their route,but if you find them it should work as well.

p.s.

In addition to the diagnostic tool you could use a simple multimeter to measure the two values directly onto the valve by just removing the harness and touching the pins two by two with the probes.If the readings are the same or differ by a few Ohms it means that the valve is ok.Take a measure when cold and a second with hot engine.

If you finally decide to do the resistors addition weld them with lead because otherwise with time corrosion will slightly change the value and thus affect your reading.

The problem was fixed just by cleaning the dashboard "matrix"' with WD-40