hey, my octavia vrs pd tdi cut out on me on monday night. it was driving fine then all of a sudden a light came on in the dash and it said engine fault on the screen and take to workshop. the battery light came on and the engine died. when i tried to restart it just turns over but wont start. a local mechanic plugged it in to his computer and he said there is an electrical fault with the injectors. he quoted me a price of 700euro plus vat!!

has anyone heard of any problems like this before? does anyone know anything about injectors i.e how many is there?

i have no idea and was just going to try get it to a skoda garage. would an independant mechanic in a small garage be able for the job? he didnt seem to sure about what the fault really was.

There are 4 injectors on your engine that also double up as high pressure fuel pumps and are buried inside the cylinder head along with the injector wiring loom. There is a round plastic plug on the right hand side of the engine block that connects the injector loom to the ECU, it might be worth checking the condition of that plug and the cabling for a start seeing as all 4 injectors have stopped working.

It would be helpful to get a more accurate description of the fault code from the engine otherwise its tricky to narow down the cause. This can be done with the Skoda dealer's VAS computer or someone with the VCDS software. There are a godo number of us here that use it.

thanks for the reply. is it possible that all four injectors stopped working? is this a common fault on skodas?

i also have a bluefin remap on the car since last july. is there any chance this wouldve had something to it??

Its highly unlkely that all 4 injectors have failed at the same time. Its most likely something that is common to all 4 injectors like the ECU, wiring or a connector. The 'unit injectors' as they are known are very reliable on their own.

The pump part of the unit injector is purely mechanical and driven by one of the camshafts, the electrical connection from the ECU tells them when to open and for how long, the injector part is Piezo-electric.

You need more information about the fault code(s) your car is giving out otherwise its a bit of a wild (and expensive) goose chase. Check the plug on the side of the block, its fairly easy to do and free if you DIY. It could be as trivial as a chafed or loose wire in the engine bay.

Are you able to unistall the bluefin map and revert to the original map via the handheld unit? Doing this will remove one variable from the equation.