Does my 2007 skoda scout diesel 2.0 tdi PD have a particulate filter?

Yes it does, the scout and vRS are the only models to feature one.

Yes it does, the scout and vRS are the only models to feature one.

That's funny, my 2.0TDi 4x4 has one and it is Jan 07.

That's funny, my 2.0TDi 4x4 has one and it is Jan 07.

Forgot about the 4x4, yes that has one as well.

As a Scout owner - Am I right in thinking it needs 507 spec long life oil even if on fixed service intervals due to the DPF? Just had the second service and I noticed that the first one, done by the supplying dealer (car was ex-demo with 9K on clock), didn't use long life oil. They'd changed it to fixed service intervals..."we automatically do that to all cars we supply"

Wondered what the potential repurcussions would be if they did use the wrong oil. Have spoken to the garage and they have confirmed they didn't use long life.

Dunno what using non-long life would do, but I can confirm that even if you're on fixed intervals you should use 507 according to the manual. Another interesting point is on the PD160 Ibiza, Seat advised the use of long life oil even on on fixed intervals.

Says in the handbook page 212 that the PDF models need 507.00 spec oil

Says in the handbook page 212 that the PDF models need 507.00 spec oil

On the old Superb & Im guessing the new Octys are the same a small amount of diesel is injected late in the combustion cycle to aid heating of the exhaust to keep the DPF working, I had read that this can wash down the bores into the sump, thats the reason Bio Diesel cant be used as it breaks down the oil shortening engine life. Im only assuming that if a similar idea is used on the PD then it may need a better grade of oil, just an idea.

Best solution is to ditch the dpf & remap the engine

I asked the the service manager at my dealer about long life oil and servicing and he told me there is a sensor in the sump that monitors the condition of the oil and its how the "service due" message is worked out, he said most problems arise from using the wrong oil or the oil not being topped up as needed, he told me to check the oil every 1000 miles.

On the old Superb & Im guessing the new Octys are the same a small amount of diesel is injected late in the combustion cycle to aid heating of the exhaust to keep the DPF working, I had read that this can wash down the bores into the sump, thats the reason Bio Diesel cant be used as it breaks down the oil shortening engine life. Im only assuming that if a similar idea is used on the PD then it may need a better grade of oil, just an idea.

Best solution is to ditch the dpf & remap the engine

What does it cost to get rid of the filter?

What does it cost to get rid of the filter?

I would guess around a grand but its only an educated guess

Edited 5 March, 201016 yr by Stuart_J

You can get it for around £700 all in now or a grand including a full Milltek system, not just the downpipe.

You can get it for around £700 all in now or a grand including a full Milltek system, not just the downpipe.

Custom Code quote £800 and Shark have quoted £499 for remap to remove the DPF but not including the pipe.

I don't know of anyone else who can do it.

Superchips also do a DPF delete remap which is available on Bluefin.

The only kind of problem is that JBS have the market cornered for the Milltek DPF-delete pipe - apparently they are the only ones who can supply the Milltek pipes (according to Milltek and JBS)

One way to get round the problem is to remove the filter element from the pipe/canister which I believe has been done by someone on this forum before.

I have managed to find a couple of newish DPF units (BMN engine code) so I'm going to attempt the modification and install the Bluefin map.

What I did find a bit off putting was that when I spoke to JBS they were VERY derogatory to all other remappers out there and seemed to have a horror story for any that I mentioned!!! JBS apparently are the ONLY company who can successfully and safely remap the PD engine to remove the DPF. I'm sure that may raise a few eyebrows on here - cheeky beggers!!

Any feedback from others that have had it done would be much appreciated

Between the first Custom Code DPF-Off map I had and the 2nd, James said he hired at considerable expense some ECU gear for the Siemens ECU which let him remove the DPF code in a more proper way. I guess everybody else just sets thresholds sky high.

How has yours been behaving?

Any comments/observations?

Yes, it's fast. I can get wheel spin in 4th on my winter tyres.

The map's got a slight glitch on that sometimes presents itself when you've been driving gently for a prolonged period and then boot it, but it's so minor I've never bothered going back about it. The exhaust stinks as there's no DPF or cat, but it's not too bad once it's fully warmed up. MPG increases aren't anything like JBS would have you believe, but it's slightly better than standard. Induction sound is great. Just got to hope for the best on the turbo longevity front. If it ever goes, I'll get it trailered to JBS, get the map and pipe taken off for £50 and then call it in under warranty.

MPG figures are never as stated unfortunately

Why are you worried about your turbo?

I'm looking at the Superchips de-DPF bluefin upgrade for £50 and I'll modify a spare DPF.

Have you heard anything about the Superchips option? it's not much talked about...?

Why are you worried about your turbo?

I'm not *that* much more worried about it than I would be without the remap. It's just I know of several people who've had to have PD170 turbos replaced (and loads of PD140s), so I guess it's best to be prepared, and I acknowledge I am putting slightly more strain on it than standard.

lol, more strain = more fun!

You do however have the benefit of knowing that you won't get stung for a £1200++ DPF replacement bill in the future

You recommend the mod then?

Yes, absolutely so long as you don't mind the fumes - seriously do bear that in mind - it's pretty bad when it's cold. If I'm stuck in stationary traffic immediately after setting out when it's cold, I'll often switch to re-circ. I think we've gotten used to diesels with cats. It's really the only downside though.

Edited 8 March, 201016 yr by wega3k

One way to get round the problem is to remove the filter element from the pipe/canister which I believe has been done by someone on this forum before.

I seem to recall a DIY guide on here somewhere but I don't know where its gone...anyone got a link?

Not sure of the mechanics of the car but do you need to remove the DPF & the cat, cant the cat remain, On our old superb they were 2 seperate parts, not combined ???

Edited 9 March, 201016 yr by Stuart_J

Not sure of the mechanics of the car but do you need to remove the DPF & the cat, cant the cat remain, On our old superb they were 2 seperate parts, not combined ???

On the PD170, the DPF is instead of a cat, not as well as...

I did wonder if that bit just in front of the RARB might be a cat but I just went under the car and had a look and its just a standard 1K0 119 silencer.

Mine has gone as of this morning!!! Now residing in the cellar, Miltek pipe fitted and JBS map installed......I'll give my review when I run out of diesel, I'm enjoying driving too much at the moment!!!