Hi guys,

Was wondering if you could help me out, I have been having problems with the car stalling everynow and again which can sometimes be rectified if I press the accelerator and rev it highly when it starts struggling. I therefore decided to clean the throttle, but now it has developed a new problem. The car still tries to cut out every now and again but the car is now idling at around 1200rpm and it used to be around 800rpm. Also when I tap the accelerator it idles at 2000rpm and if I tap it again, it will go back to 1200rpm. I have tried lubricating the throttle linkage but still no cure. It was also happening during driving, i would ease off the accelerator and it would continue to accelerate or very slowly deccelerate. Can anyone shed some light on these issues??

Regards

Skoda_Dragon

Edited 23 March, 201016 yr by skoda_dragon

no suggestions, though id like to thank you for saving me having to type up exactly the same post

When you cleaned the throttle, maybe you have disturbed something.

It does sound more like a sticky cable though, even though you have lubed it, it may not be unsticking the sticky bit. :wonder: Take the cable off and rev it by hand on the throttle body linkage, see if it stills sticks. That will rule out the cable.

I tried revving it from the linkage and still no cure, is it possible that the ECU has altered it, and if so is there any way to correct it

Is the throttle quadrant resting against the stop when the engine is "idling"?

If not, can you pull it back against the stop manually?

If so, are the return springs all present, unbroken, and still stretched when the quadrant stops moving naturally.

If so, then I'd suspect a frayed Bowden cable inside the sheath. Otherwise, I'd suggest replacing the broken, missing or stretched spring.

When you cleaned the throttle body, did you take it off?

The throttle quadrant was resting against the stop during idling, and I didn't take the throttle off to clean it, just sprayed a bit of cleaner inside and then wiped clean

Just an idea, but my son has just fixed a high idle on his Vitara. It used to rev up to 2500 rpm on start and then rev up and down on it's own for while then would settle for a bit when warm, then high again.

Really simple to fix. It had hardly any water in the rad and the sensor was reading from an air pocket !

wooo ooooo oooooo... << ghostly noises....... you need to reset the leared adaption values for your throttle body using vag-com.. << ghostly voice....

Any idea how much this would cost approximately?

Go to the VAG-COM forum, find someone near you with the kit, and take it from there; maybe 5 beer tokens or less.

Might well be inlet manifold gaskets quite common on the 1.3 mpi spray some wd40 around the gaskets & see if its leaking, I did quite a few back in my workshop days,

Cheers Jason.

Edited 25 March, 201016 yr by Jason@Willis

I thought I would do a quick fault code check today and it resulted in the following codes:

00524 - Knock sensor (faulty)

00522 - Engine coolant temperature sensor

00525 - O2 Sensor voltage low

00537 - Oxygen sensor control

Just wondering if any of these might be contributing to the problem?

Also on a separate note - does anyone know whats happended to Butts of Bawtrys skoda division?

wooo ooooo oooooo... << ghostly noises....... you need to reset the leared adaption values for your throttle body using vag-com.. << ghostly voice....

WTF, ghostly noises, I must have missed something here. :wonder:

Edited 25 March, 201016 yr by myjalopy

I thought I would do a quick fault code check today and it resulted in the following codes:

00524 - Knock sensor (faulty)

00522 - Engine coolant temperature sensor

00525 - O2 Sensor voltage low

00537 - Oxygen sensor control

Just wondering if any of these might be contributing to the problem?

Also on a separate note - does anyone know whats happended to Butts of Bawtrys skoda division?

Well, none will help. Depends on the management strategy of the engine, although I think that the O2 sensor is only used during light cruising (usually is). I know that a faulty knock sensor led to someone with a challenge Fel spending lots of money on it before finding that was the problem (it was gutless until he fixed it).

Butts sold all their stock (or are trying to on eBay), and I believe they've just gone into garage equipment. Certainly they were selling some stuff off at bargain prices a while back.

00525 - O2 Sensor voltage low

00537 - Oxygen sensor control

the code 0525 is normally indicative of a faulty heater element in the lambda probe rather than the actual probe itself being shot, basically because the probe is not warm enough it fails to produce the correct output voltage range.... this in turn throws out the 00537 code because not all the pre-requisites for closed loop running are met

Does anybody know, which colour thermostat temperature is supposed to be on the felicia 1.3MPi? It used to have a blue one on, but then I changed the thermostat over a few months ago with the SPi version, which had a yellow band. I have swapped it back over now so the blue is back on the MPi just to see if there was a difference but still no change. I also checked on Jorily site and apparently the blue and yellow are the same. can someone confirm the difference, if there is any?

I finally went to Shark performance in mansfield to get the throttle valve position reset with vag-com and now she is running as smooth as a babys bottom

She has a little more oomph in her now as well

Although the car is no longer idling high, it still has a problem of losing revs when stationary and sometimes cuts out or struggles quite badly. I can put my foot on the accelerator and after a few seconds it will slowly recover to the point where it will rev up to 5000rpm. Any idea what could be causing this?

I'm planning on doing a compression check soon just to see if i'm losing compression in any of the cylinders. Also wondered if it could be down to a timing issue?