Hello, has anyone fitted or had fitted a towbar to a 2009 Limited Edition Octavia ?

I am in the process of trying to do so. I purchased the genuine Skoda/Westfalia kit Part No ZGB 1Z0 055 204 13 pin electrics which was the kit I was advised was required by dealer.

I have routed the cable to the front under the dash, all pretty straightforward so far. I am now ready to connect the wires but am now wondering if the kit is correct, the installation instructions (instruction 14) say:-

"Unlock the following cables from the 12 pin plug (slot G on the network control unit)"

---however the network control unit on my car seems only to have 3 very large connectors plugging into the bottom of it with numbered A,B or C. It also looks different from the instructions on www.octavia-vrs.com. The network controller on the LE Octavia is a flat almost square box which I think houses a large PCB- had a wee peek inside. The correctly coloured wires can be seen in one of these large plugs and entering the box but I'm not convinced the instructions are correct/referring to what is fitted on my car.

With the LE having the new style dash, maybe they fitted different electrics aswell and a different kit/instructions is required.

Any infromation would be great before I go any further.

Thanks. Bob

Hi Bob, have a look here - http://www.westfalia-automotive.de/index.php?id=10&L=1 cheers - Stuart

Hi Bob, have a look here - http://www.westfalia-automotive.de/index.php?id=10&L=1 cheers - Stuart

Hi Sparky2, I had actually already found that and have also been in contact with Westfalia who have been very helpfull indeed. Not yet wired it up yet but I have the correct instructions now (VW Universal 321 600 391 101 - 014 - 13/10) which gives reference to the BCM (body control module) fitted to the latest Octavia's. Its a fair old bundle of wires crammed into the 3 connectors so it will be fun trying to get the correct ones out.

Tomorrows the day so will let you know how I get on.

Thanks again, Bob

3 connectors, could be the beige connector of the 3,split the connector in 2 and you will see the canbus wires, which are together, remove each wire one by one and replace with the corresponding same coloured wires in the towbar loom........... the other wires( fat red wire and thin black/blue) which branch off further down the towbar loom go into the fusebox( r/h/s of dash) then just the coding..........easy!!!!!!

3 connectors, could be the beige connector of the 3,split the connector in 2 and you will see the canbus wires, which are together, remove each wire one by one and replace with the corresponding same coloured wires in the towbar loom........... the other wires( fat red wire and thin black/blue) which branch off further down the towbar loom go into the fusebox( r/h/s of dash) then just the coding..........easy!!!!!!

Hello fireblade, aye thats exactly as per the instructions I got now. Initially I had the wrong ones for the older BSG equiped module and I knew something was wrong when I got the dash panels off. Dont think its gonna be at all difficult, its just an awkward corner to work in as theres not really alot of movement on the cable looms. looking forward to getting the car back into one piece again !! Good info guys's, thanks alot.

:S Hi Fireblade, I am trying to pick up a switched live out of the door fusebox and a perm live on my Scout, can I pick out any or are there prefered ones for these feeds as I am worred about the can bus feeds within the fusebox ? ps- Bob can I pinch a copy of the wiring loom for connections etc ? cheers - Stuart

:S Hi Fireblade, I am trying to pick up a switched live out of the door fusebox and a perm live on my Scout, can I pick out any or are there prefered ones for these feeds as I am worred about the can bus feeds within the fusebox ? ps- Bob can I pinch a copy of the wiring loom for connections etc ? cheers - Stuart

Well guy's the wiring has all been done today and it really is simple. The orange/green, orange/brown, and black/red are all very easy to get out of the multi plug C at the Body Control Module. The fused wires are easy as there's 3 vacant slots on my car 43,44,45 and a mini adapter loom links between these and the main busbars (permanent lives).

I do however have a query about the black/blue wire, the latest instructions tell me to connect that to terminal 15 in the fuse box after removing the wire already there and connecting that into the new loom (this terminal is described in the owners manual as "Central control unit-interior lights" and is fitted with a 5 amp fuse, it is a permanent live).

The older instructions tell me to connect it to terminal 19, this is described in the owners manual as "Control unit for trailer detection" and it has a switched live (black wire) at fuse box.

So the question is, does it make a difference (switched or permanent live) and does it affect anything. Also what does this wire do ? Pin 8 at the 13pin socket has a black/blue wire to it (supplying reversing lights ?), but does it require the permanent feed to something else aswell. Why would you need a permanent feed to the reversing lights ? More than 1 question there then.

Everything working fine on the car since reconnecting the battery, not yet tested the lights with lighting board. Will report back further finding's later on.

Stuart, I dont have a copy of the wiring diagram for the loom. Have just been following the written instructions -not sure if thats what you are looking for ?

Cheers lad, great info and satisfying to know it is possible to do it yourself, and saving a small fortune in the process.

blue/black wire, definately switched live, when coding make sure the reverse sensors are coded................ cheers.

sparky2, you can get a switched and permanent from the fusebox, with no canbus issues, i get the specific wires that fit into the back of the fusebox and then fit a fuse at the front which makes it look standard................

Edited 16 April, 201016 yr by fireblade

blue/black wire, definately switched live, when coding make sure the reverse sensors are coded................ cheers.

sparky2, you can get a switched and permanent from the fusebox, with no canbus issues, i get the specific wires that fit into the back of the fusebox and then fit a fuse at the front which makes it look standard................

Cheers fireblade, thats exactly what Westfalia told me aswell, I gave them a call this afternoon just to clarify that. They have been very helpfull and happy to give advice aswell. All the lights are working fine on the cycle rack so I'm really chuffed

Dont have the parking sensors on the LE Octavia, so no worries there. Probably just wait until its in for a service to get the recoding done, its only the car fog light that doesn't switch off at the moment when testing the lights and will only be using cycle carrier not trailer/caravan (in the near future at least) so no ESP issues there.

Theres no audible indicator bleep, or indication that a trailer is connected- can I expect that after recoding ?

Was looking forward to getting all the trim back on but I'm thinking now I should fit the split charging/constant plus cable while its all apart as I dont really want to be removing it all again when I decide I need it ! Decisions, decisions.......

Bob

Thanks for all the info lads,Fireblade what wires/terminals do you have for going into the back of the fusebox as I have been looking for some ? with the factory fitted electrics the only indication of a blown bulb is the cars bulb falure light comes on (tried it by taking out some tail bulbs on the caravan) and only with say a 21w bulb. cheers- Stuart