dose de-finning the airbox give more power as in drilled holes on the bottom and what ever else you have to do

drilling holes just gives noise

it allows better airflow inside, a lot of effort for not much gain i think,

better to get a good panel filter

Edited 2 August, 201015 yr by sweedish

it allows better airflow inside, a lot of effort for not much gain i think,

better to get a good panel filter

thanks

Not to mention £65 if you break the airbox whilst cutting out the plastic support ridges

Fabricating a better air-scoop would be a much better way to spend some time

Or buy one off another member that's already been de-finned

Or buy one off another member that's already been de-finned

Now it just so happens I have a De-finned airbox with brand new green panel filter......

I looked at using a bigger snorkel from an R32 but the brains of the LPG system are mounted where it needed to run, so I definned the airbox and tried using some 2.5" extending aluminium ducting but there was nowhere I could get it attached to the airbox (too much other stuff around it and that stuff is not very flexible) I ended up using some flexible cable conduit that comes with the glands for connecting to sheet metal/plastic/wood etc it is 1" diameter and I managed to get four lengths attached into the very bottom of the airbox, the pipes then follow a variety of paths(it is bendy ) to get to the same area as the original cold air feed. Effectively what I have done is increase the surface area of the inlet ducting to the airbox (I know a nice straight path would be better but 4x1" increase in available air floe has got to be better than none:D), haven't done any logs but i don't get a sudden loss of power at between 6-6.5k revs like I used to (possibly from TIP collapse?) the car does now rev past 6.5k so hoping that it might be a little better now when I get around to fitting the new TIP

I looked at using a bigger snorkel from an R32 but the brains of the LPG system are mounted where it needed to run, so I definned the airbox and tried using some 2.5" extending aluminium ducting but there was nowhere I could get it attached to the airbox (too much other stuff around it and that stuff is not very flexible) I ended up using some flexible cable conduit that comes with the glands for connecting to sheet metal/plastic/wood etc it is 1" diameter and I managed to get four lengths attached into the very bottom of the airbox, the pipes then follow a variety of paths(it is bendy ) to get to the same area as the original cold air feed. Effectively what I have done is increase the surface area of the inlet ducting to the airbox (I know a nice straight path would be better but 4x1" increase in available air floe has got to be better than none:D), haven't done any logs but i don't get a sudden loss of power at between 6-6.5k revs like I used to (possibly from TIP collapse?) the car does now rev past 6.5k so hoping that it might be a little better now when I get around to fitting the new TIP

I kind of did a similar route on my de-finned airbox when it was fitted. I had some very flexible tubing that has wire rings in it(kind of like hoover extension tubing) Because it was flexible i was able to insert it in the inlet end of the airbox(after removing the plastic intake duct on the inner wing) then route the tubing down the side past the battery and down into the front bumper section. Then it just fitted nicely into the front bumper aperture behind the grill.

As the Airbox was definned and a few drilled holes placed underneath the airbox with a green panel filter it worked very well. It has been off and on the car like a prostitutes knickers going up and down, trying to make choice between CAI and Airbox.. I have now settled for the ABD CAI for my state of tune.(mapped to the CAI).

Some folks say the standard airbox gives more torque than a CAI, but i found this not to be the case on my motor.

I prefer to FAF but will have to remove it to fit the TIP when I get a day off.

definned mine, not hard to do at all, and its free to do!

definned mine, not hard to do at all, and its free to do!

Is there a guide anywhere?

i used a dremel and would'nt recommend it as all the melted fins/plastic sticks in the bottom of the airbox making twice the work

hence why its still in a corner in my garage

Just looked at these:

http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=87356.10

]http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2772457

Can we just get the snorkel or do we need the lower part of the box too?

I think we'd need the lower part of the box as the snorkel bit is wider where it fits to the box (and the hole in the box is wider too). If anyone gets part prices from VW can you post them up here?

you can mod the standard box to fit the bigger snorkel but as it runs to the front of the car insead of into the wheel arch void I couldn't do it on mine

Id like to see a before and after on a RR as Im sceptical it will do ANYTHING at all

tutorial..pah, lid off, snap fins out with pliers. file off any jagged bits. job done, even if it makes piff all difference its free to do and takes 10mins

personally I cant see it doing anything. the hole into the box is not big enough anyway. also the fins are there to stop dirt, its all part of the filtration system is it not? Bit like the Old 4-3 APC we used to have with the cyclone engine things, there was 3 levels of filtration on it, first was these things that spun the air and basically forced the larger bits of crap out . I think the fins do sim, by just trapping the muc?

Really all you need to do is allow more air in to the box in the first place?

adding in extra pipe/larger snorkel/drilling holes will help at the higher rpms as it will decrease the vacuum thereby stopping tip collapse. I know lots of people don't believe that the tips collapse ayway but mine is definately reving higher without suffering the sudden power loss. I took at mine with the stanley knife and sandpaper after I first did the extra pipes I had a really loud whoosh and dump noise, thought I'd fecked it (did not fit with the whole sleeper concept at all ) but I had not put the tip pipe back on properly

Edited 4 August, 201015 yr by karlbar2k

How much is it to replace the whole lot with a K&N or similar? Can't be that much, surely?

adding in extra pipe/larger snorkel/drilling holes will help at the higher rpms as it will decrease the vacuum thereby stopping tip collapse. I know lots of people don't believe that the tips collapse ayway but mine is definately reving higher without suffering the sudden power loss. I took at mine with the stanley knife and sandpaper after I first did the extra pipes I had a really loud whoosh and dump noise, thought I'd fecked it (did not fit with the whole sleeper concept at all ) but I had not put the tip pipe back on properly

thats why I have not gone for the Autobahnn 888 / samco / forge TIP. I managed to find a cheap Neuspeed copy lol. and it is perfect. and only need to change one pipe over rather than all the ones on the black pipe too. I can see ho it would collaps at high rpm tho and really it needs a larget pipe into the box.

what I dont get tho is why does the car feel stronger with the std box and filter than it does with a CAI kit? there is no restriction wiht the CAI and its cool air going in? so why when you restrict it a tad does it feel stronger?

mmm

How much is it to replace the whole lot with a K&N or similar? Can't be that much, surely?

Buy a cheap cold air intake kit off ebay for £45, throw away the rubbish cone filter and replace it with a decent K&N filter, whole lot costs less than £100.

Or the most expensive option is something like a Carbonio or (even more expensive as it has a carbon box surrounding the filter) the BMC CDA ,you're looking at somewhere between £200 and £300 for those.

I've not fitted a CAI to my VRS but experience with K&N CAIs on previous cars the car seemed to be more torquey with just an uprated panel filter in the standard air box so that's the way I'm going with the VRS. Plus the 225bhp BAM engines use the same airbox and filter setup as standard so if you've got a stage 1 AUQ engine you're going to be putting out less than that anyway.

Re. the TIP collapse thing - here's a vid of it happening on a remapped TT http://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/media/intake.mpg I would imagine you'd have to be running fairly high boost for that to happen though.

Edited 4 August, 201015 yr by chicken_eyebrow

silicone tip..sorted

Buy a cheap cold air intake kit off ebay for £45, throw away the rubbish cone filter and replace it with a decent K&N filter, whole lot costs less than £100.

Or the most expensive option is something like a Carbonio or (even more expensive as it has a carbon box surrounding the filter) the BMC CDA ,you're looking at somewhere between £200 and £300 for those.

I've not fitted a CAI to my VRS but experience with K&N CAIs on previous cars the car seemed to be more torquey with just an uprated panel filter in the standard air box so that's the way I'm going with the VRS. Plus the 225bhp BAM engines use the same airbox and filter setup as standard so if you've got a stage 1 AUQ engine you're going to be putting out less than that anyway.

Re. the TIP collapse thing - here's a vid of it happening on a remapped TT http://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/media/intake.mpg I would imagine you'd have to be running fairly high boost for that to happen though.

thats my argument, if a 225 motor uses the same box then a remapped vRS is fine on it, mine is nice now Ive put the std box and filter back on, missin the noise now tho. but I get much better MPG out of it and it feels more torque than before.