Greetings all.

I've been lurking for several days now, reading through all the useful info - what i can find of it anyway. Not an easy task TBH. And as for the "other" forum

Anyway, having tapped up some of my fellow fiat drivers (over on fiatforum.com) who also operate skodas, i've managed to fill in most of the blanks.

So why am I posting up a new thread? Well, going back a few days....

Saturday just gone, i bought myself a green Skoda Felicia Estate. Having done 55k miles, it was on sale via ebay with a clutch problem (Suspected "thrust bearing" fault). It was doing quite well too, with several bids by saturday, and was due to end monday morning. However, i'd spotted that the garage also had it advertised for £370 in autotrader. Thus, armed with a pocket stuffed with tenners, I took my dad for a drive out to walkden and bought it outright - probably angering a few bidders when the auction got pulled as a result

So far so good, I hear someone there at the back muttering, but what's this got to do with paint codes?

Well, 2 years ago - nearly to the day - the previous (original) owner had sold it on; with 35k on the clock and in "mint - as new" condition (included in the service history was a copy of the advert). In the intervening two years the numpty that has owned it has:

1/Broken the back wiper (Now fixed by yours truly)

2/Broken the drivers door lock

3/Broken the drivers door window trying to get to said lock, and bodged it shut with.....sillicone bathroom sealant

4/Broken the pax side rear light cluster

Additionally the pillock has at sometime driven into a gatepost, buckling the pax side front wing around the drivers headlamp and wrecking the bumper.

To fix this, he has bent it back to shape, and replaced the bumper wih a broken one (off another car) that on inspection has been fixed back together using mechano (i kid you not!) and pop rivets

This has then been painted the correct colour, and fixed on....with silicone bathroom sealant

Despite this, the interior is immacculate, and the body free of rust...and bar the clutch issue, it is mechanically sound.

Given that it looks an absolute mess, i'm in the process of sourcing parts, but need to know the correct paintcode in order to either:

A/ get any new parts sprayed to match

or

B/ source second hand parts in the correct colour.

However, as usual, there is a fly in the ointment. The paint code is "5550"

Looking at halfraud's paint book, this wasn't listed.

Looking at the downloadable paint codes PDF, found elsewhere on this forum, 5550 is not listed.

So, the purpose of this thread is threefold:

1/ Hi, how y'all doing?

2/ What is paint code 5550 called (ie: puke green, pin mould, etc...)

3/ Any advice that i may have forgotten to ask for?

Cheers,

Dan.

Edited 11 August, 201015 yr by Ravenskull

Sounds like my car has an almost-twin! Except the garage had put a new clutch in mine already so it cost me £125 more than yours

Anyway, a bit of Googling around (one of my specialities) suggests it's called 'Petrol' or 'Petrol Green'. You could always give the parts dept. of a Skoda dealer a call to confirm this - I just took the car along as I had no idea what the code was (no original documents, sticker in the boot was worn away...) and they looked it up for me.

I suspect you want more, but for touch-up areas I got a 150ml aerosol set (base coat & lacquer) from my dealer for £9 - as good a deal as I could find anywhere else without a lot of faffing around.

Word of warning on the brackets that hold the ends of the front bumper to the inner wings - the studs are incredibly easy to shear off (one on mine, and the two that weren't already like that in the scrapyard... oops). Brand new one's only about a fiver though.

Car before my Furby was an Astra - with some flakes on the rear bumper . Vauxhall hadn't got a touch up pen but knew the paint code .But ,surprise ,little( panel and paint) shop in town ,knew where to look and mixed me a touch up kit -matched perfectly .Might be an idea if there's one around( little shop that is) - the "recipe" for the colour will/should be available( watching him was like looking at at a witches spell -3 parts x ,and one part z ,then add one part ddd) -added to this -shop is situated across road from Halfrauds ,and has no problems in undercutting them and still managing to do very nicely .

And service - they'd do a great trade in customer service training for the bigger store .

Petrol green would appear to be the correct answer, thanks :yes:

Next query;

Can someone please CORRECTLY translate the optional equipment codes listed for my felicia, or if they are correct, explain the odd ones? All 3 sources i found to translate the 3 character codes give the same answers, and not all of them make sense.

My sources:

http://vag-codes.info/

http://www.jettamkv.co.uk/tools/option-codes-decoder/

http://igorweb.org/equidec/Default.aspx

The translations:

My comments in red

D46 = 4-cyl. turbo dies. eng. 2.0 l/120kW (4V)TDI, BIT common rail Base engine is TP3/TV4/TP5

Wrong! it's a 1.6 petrol (see code below)

GD0 = Check unit, lamp failure

Huh?

G35 = Front shock absorption

And how exactly are shock absorbers optional equipment? Unless it's Engrish for "driver's airbag"?

H11 = Tires 225/50 R17 98H x1 (polymer coating)

Wrong! Fitted tyres were 165/70 on standard R13 steelies

J05 = Suspension range 05

Correct?

K50 = Radio preparation

Correct

M24 = 4-cylinder gasoline engine 1.6 L/75 kW KA jetronic, appendix 15/04 base engine is T2T

Correct - it's a 1.6

Thanks in advance,

Dan.

Interestingly, this list from 2005 doesn't contain the contentious D46, GD0 or H11 codes at all, so I'd imagine certain codes have been phased out as models they referred to ceased production, and have been subsequently re-used for different options on newer models.

I can help on two points, though:

Shocks are 'optional' in that there's a lot of different possible specifications, depending on engine, body style, export market, etc.

That engine code description is actually wrong as well. The Felicia 1.6 has 55kW and a Magneti-Marelli 1AV ECU. 75kW with a Bosch KA-Jetronic ECU means a different engine, possibly the later 8v 1.6.

Since i'm too lazy to start a new thread, i'll just tag this on the end....

.....Drivers window now fixed, and silicon sealant removed.

.....Drivers door lock rebuilt, and i can now unlock the drivers door from the outside.

Puzzlingly though, i cannot lock the door from the outside, as the key won't turn to the lock position.

.....Front bumper removed to inspect/remove silicone sealant.

Discovered that bumper is not only shot, but studs holding it to the wings had corroded away/sheared off in times past and had been replaced by setting sellf tapping screws through bumper into wing.

Discovered that bumper reinforcing bar is also damaged and will require replacing. Sourcing a second hand one seems to be as easy as turning lead into gold.

.....Upon initial inspection I noticed that the spare tyre was in excellent, almost unused, condition.

Upon removal yesterday, i realised that judging by the datecode it is one of the original tyres, (but not the original spare - the spare -black- wheel rim is on the OSF). The reason it is in such pristine condition is that it has been diven over some kind of bladed object, and there is a slice down to the steel braid running 90 degrees across the tyre. The amount of dust on it leads me to believe that it has been like this for quite some time. Shows how vigilant the MOT testers are these days

Edited 19 August, 201015 yr by Ravenskull

Since we were on the subject of optional extras earlier on in the thread, i thought i'd post this useful link up.

Wonder if any of them are still available (in particular, the plastic wheel arch liners....)

http://www.skoda-auto.by/media/price/Felicia_Favorit.pdf

There was a motor factor selling a few pattern arch liners on eBay recently - can't seem to find them now though.

. Shows how vigilant the MOT testers are these days

Not really - know you've got a duff spare - AFAIK, simply remove spare before going on .And though place I go is quite strict( year before last got size 12 MOT in rear end ,so frightened of loosing ticket) -they don't take spare out -just do a quick check in situ .

I have a front end for a '99/00 felicia estate - mine was driven into a van, the only damage being the bumper, reinforcement bar and a pierced rad - I bought the replacements parts for well over £100 but by the time it was ready to go into the garage, the engine had been nicked so the whole thing was scrapped! Just bought a new one, but the front end is fine, just the rear arches that are rusty so i don't have much use for this big pile of parts!! Any use to you? I can't remember the exact cost fot hem now, perhaps the knowledgeable members of this forum could suggest a sensible price?

My new skoda is green too, was in halfords yesterday trying to find which and couldn't - so thanks for this thread! I think this colour is pretty gross and would much prefer black!!!???

%$*^!!!

Just went out and bought a new (to me) bumper & bar via ebay, otherwise that would have been perfect.

Also having aquired a new wing (from someone who's car - an L&K felly - had been torched half way through him rebuilding it ), i removed the old buckled wing and attempted to fit the new one......only to find that it was the wrong part - for the 'old' felicia, rather than the new (reinforced body) felicia - and the blasted thing doesn't fit. Arrgghh!

Anyone know of anywhere that has the correct part in stock, and reasonably priced? MOT/Tax due next week, and need to get it sorted....and i kinda destroyed the old wing whilst removing it

Jorily appears to have a 2week lead time going by the website - whats the difference between his turkish, slovakian and czech made wings anyway?.

%$*^!!!

Just went out and bought a new (to me) bumper & bar via ebay, otherwise that would have been perfect.

Also having aquired a new wing (from someone who's car - an L&K felly - had been torched half way through him rebuilding it ), i removed the old buckled wing and attempted to fit the new one......only to find that it was the wrong part - for the 'old' felicia, rather than the new (reinforced body) felicia - and the blasted thing doesn't fit. Arrgghh!

Anyone know of anywhere that has the correct part in stock, and reasonably priced? MOT/Tax due next week, and need to get it sorted....and i kinda destroyed the old wing whilst removing it

Jorily appears to have a 2week lead time going by the website - whats the difference between his turkish, slovakian and czech made wings anyway?.

I *think* I've got a wing too, this was a couple of years ago, I'm going to have a look tomorrow and will let you know...

Word of warning on the brackets that hold the ends of the front bumper to the inner wings - the studs are incredibly easy to shear off (one on mine, and the two that weren't already like that in the scrapyard... oops). Brand new one's only about a fiver though.

New (ish) bumper has now arrived.

where can you get new (ie, not sheared off ) brackets/studs? Are they a readily available part from motor factors, or is it dealer only?

Cheers Solly, much obliged

Dan.

Edited 23 August, 201015 yr by Ravenskull

The outer (bumper-end) stud is part of the bracket - £4.07+VAT from a dealer according to my invoice from the other week. I'm not sure if it's studs or bolts at the other end - I'm putting off fitting it until I can get the pressure washer under there and actually see what's under the muck

Have to say, i'm sorely tempted to remove the bracket & then just drill out the old stud. Then just use ordinary bolt instead

Thanks to Solly, car now looks more like it should. All that stands now between it and the MOT, is getting the clutch sorted - hopefully on tuesday.

@ RobinSLXi: Bracket is held on by 2x 10mm nuts. Cannot tell for certain if studs or bolts, due to being obscured by underseal, however i can't see any bolt heads in the engine bay.

Just FYI, This weekend i tried to drill out the studs on the brackets that i snapped while removing the bumper. Turns out to be rather easy, using only a standard DIY drill and several HSS bits - starting small and working up. Then have a choice of using a tap to put a thread in the old stud-head, or using a bolt through the new hole (i did both). Much cheaper than buying new brackets....