ok, well i no for the N75 there is a wire harness that connects to the solenoid. tht harness doesnt seat on the solenoid like im assuming it once did. but the protective wraping arond the actual wires themselves looks all intact still. is there just 2 wires coming from the solenoid in tht protective wrapping?

Yeah I'm not near my car at the moment but looking at pics of an N75 there are two pins in the multiplug socket so there should be two wires connecting it to the rest of the loom

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/N75-valve-standard-version-058-906-283F-Genuine-/260653419641?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM

ok i just looked again and im thnkin the wires are fine, i dnt thnk tht harness that connects to the actual solenoid has a purpose mayb just for a little support. im debating on suckering up and buying a new N75 today ($65 USD) from VW. idk wht else to do. and honestly at this point i feel like i no more about the problem thn anyone else who is gunna look. i feel there just gunna chk wht i already hav and thts not always a bad thng. but, i dnt wanna spend large amounts at another shop since the last one i brought it to was stumped. they repalced my map sensor and were confused cuz the Chk Engine Light would come on while the car was at idle or just after a small low speed trip. they thought it should only come on after high boosts. but agian i asked wht the ticking noise was and a guy there said it was the boost control valve solenoid.

Could always put the N75 on ebay if that doesn't fix it - as new condition - you should get most of your money back.

do u no with the N75 if i blow into any of the ends should air come out of any other side? also would a secondary air hose b a possible culprit for this code?

ok so i got a VAG test doen today and i got the same code 17705 plus another. the other one was 17965 - Charge Pressure Control: Positive Deviation. does that narrow my search at all?

thnx again for all ur help on the heavily posted topic

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17965/P1557/005463

Sounds more and more like it is the N75

If you are getting a smell in the cabin you WILL have a leak somewhere as well as a possible faulty N75 - I still think you may find someone near you on the Vortex so that you can try a know good N75. Having access to other owners and their spares (when the car isn't moving) is a must with these 1.8 turbos

so i put a new n75 and cleared the code. a couple engine starts and about 20 miles the check engine light came on again.....just code 17705 again.... :'(

i do still hav the smell under hard acceleration. karlbar2k u thnk thats a for sure boost leak? i just feel like all the hoses are good. its just hard to tell since i cant look at them whn there is actual boost.

also, does the PCV system hav somethng to do with this code u thnk? under the intake inlet there is the "T" piece. there is a valve tht sits in the top of it and connects to the "S" shaped hose which leads to the suction pump. if tht valve was malfunctioning would it create the smell im experiencing? im asking this cuz i replaced all the PCV system down there except tht valve. its just a small piece of plastic. when i removed it from the old "T" i was a little hard on it. JW if u guys new anythng about this valve and its operation?

thnx again!!!

Edited 27 August, 201015 yr by pete6810

ive read that people say the last resort is getting a remap with the code written out. if u do this does it trick the car to running how it was when the code was present? or does the car run the same and the only difference is tht the check engine light isnt on?

so i put a new n75 and cleared the code. a couple engine starts and about 20 miles the check engine light came on again.....just code 17705 again.... :'(

i do still hav the smell under hard acceleration. karlbar2k u thnk thats a for sure boost leak? i just feel like all the hoses are good. its just hard to tell since i cant look at them whn there is actual boost.

also, does the PCV system hav somethng to do with this code u thnk? under the intake inlet there is the "T" piece. there is a valve tht sits in the top of it and connects to the "S" shaped hose which leads to the suction pump. if tht valve was malfunctioning would it create the smell im experiencing? im asking this cuz i replaced all the PCV system down there except tht valve. its just a small piece of plastic. when i removed it from the old "T" i was a little hard on it. JW if u guys new anythng about this valve and its operation?

thnx again!!!

this is what I am on about. the Pipe from the manifold down to the PCV (the T piece with a valve in it) the valve in the T piece is supposed to be one way FROM the crank case into the inlet manifold so when you take foot off the throttle and you have VACUUM all the crank case gases get sucked into the inlet manifold. When under boost conditions the valve shuts. When the valve gets filled with cr4p it no longer shuts properly (BOOST LEAK) this boost is now leaking through the check valve and as the crank case is generating positive pressure as well it will now flow to the right of the T piece which goes back up to the Turbo Intake Pipe. On mine it is the Y pipe and the one below that are prone to split, you will have to trace where the T piece goes on yours. When one of these pipes is split the crank gases+BOOST LEAK will now be forced out of the split pipe which is at the top of the engine and then through the air intake for the cabin which is why you get the bad smell :D HTH

You need to strip the PCV valve and clean it AND/OR fit an extra check valve into the pipe that you had replaced (see the link in my earlier post) You also need to find the pipe from the T piece to the TIP that is broken as even after fixing the boost leak past the valve you will still have a VAC leak as a split in this pipe will allow unmetered air into the engine

ive read that people say the last resort is getting a remap with the code written out. if u do this does it trick the car to running how it was when the code was present? or does the car run the same and the only difference is tht the check engine light isnt on?

the codes are there for a reason. if you have 17705 you have it for a reason. The codes that people get mapped out are related to removing bits of the system, for example if you remove the Secondary Air Pump then there is a code that can be mapped out. HTH

this is what I am on about. the Pipe from the manifold down to the PCV (the T piece with a valve in it) the valve in the T piece is supposed to be one way FROM the crank case into the inlet manifold so when you take foot off the throttle and you have VACUUM all the crank case gases get sucked into the inlet manifold. When under boost conditions the valve shuts. When the valve gets filled with cr4p it no longer shuts properly (BOOST LEAK) this boost is now leaking through the check valve and as the crank case is generating positive pressure as well it will now flow to the right of the T piece which goes back up to the Turbo Intake Pipe. On mine it is the Y pipe and the one below that are prone to split, you will have to trace where the T piece goes on yours. When one of these pipes is split the crank gases+BOOST LEAK will now be forced out of the split pipe which is at the top of the engine and then through the air intake for the cabin which is why you get the bad smell :D HTH

You need to strip the PCV valve and clean it AND/OR fit an extra check valve into the pipe that you had replaced (see the link in my earlier post) You also need to find the pipe from the T piece to the TIP that is broken as even after fixing the boost leak past the valve you will still have a VAC leak as a split in this pipe will allow unmetered air into the engine

thts really helpful info! so if tht valve is bad there has to b a leak elsewhere? it couldnt just b a bad vavle?

thnx alot karlbar2k

correct. if you have a bad smell then you have a leak on the PCV system (they are similar on most of the 1.8T's so you just need to find where) If the valve is bad or just dirty the boost leak makes the smell worse at high revs as the pipe that is split should be under VAC not boost.

extra valve

Can't find the thread about the Y Pipe as that was on the old servers?

Edited 31 August, 201015 yr by karlbar2k

correct. if you have a bad smell then you have a leak on the PCV system (they are similar on most of the 1.8T's so you just need to find where) If the valve is bad or just dirty the boost leak makes the smell worse at high revs as the pipe that is split should be under VAC not boost.

extra valve

Can't find the thread about the Y Pipe as that was on the old servers?

i read to check tht valve in the PCV system i should disconnect the top hose and turn the car on and let idle. i read there should be vacuum on the valve while its idling. if thre is no vacuum the valve is bad. is this correct?

If teh valve is stuck open you will have VAC at idle. the problem is that under boost the boost will leak past it into the PCV system. Best way to check the valve is to remove it and blow against it, the simplest thing to do is to add an extra check valve into the line so that the boost doesn't even get to the valve like I did in the link above

by looking at ur pic it looks that u deleted the "T" and the valve and added that other one. whr would the 2nd valve b or is the one u bought and put in act as 2?

the check valve is added into the line that goes down to the T, all I did was cut out a piece of the pipe and added in the check valve with some clamps. This means that the boost from the inlet manifold can no longer get to the OEM check valve so if it was leaking its no longer an issue. You will still need to find the split in the other bits of pipework though.

ok tht makes sense. im about to go take out tht valve and look it over. il try blowin into it

It will be really full of oily **** !! you should not be able to blow from the inlet manifold side into the T If you can then valve is open, an OEM replacement can be bought or you can use an extra valve in line instead.

well i pulled it out and i couldnt blow thru it frm inlet side to the "T" side. it blew fine the other way. whn the car was idling thr wasnt any vacuum tho thru the inlet side. i popped the hose off the top and turned the car on, put my finger on it and no suction.

Karlbark2k do you have the P/N handy for the S-shaped hose and what size metal check valve did you buy for yours from ebay?

I'm replacing the small vac hose between the t-piece and the inlet manifold on mine as it's split, and I was thinking I might replace the S-hose as well and fit the check valve in case my PCV valve is knackered too.

referring to the valve again, should the spring hav alot of resistence whn u push in the one side? also, is there anyway to tell if that temperature sensor is faulty? or if it was would it just thro a code?

thnx

Edited 1 September, 201015 yr by pete6810

The temp sensor issue shows as either a fault code (think its "17704: error in mapped cooling system") or the temp gauge will give odd readings, like telling you it's in the red when the engine is stone cold

Edited 1 September, 201015 yr by chicken_eyebrow

alright, i thnk mine is working fine thn cuz i just get the code 17705. i seriously cannot find the reasoning behind this code! ive checked so many places haha. as i mentioned i chkd tht PCV valve and i thnk it was working fine. it wasnt stuck but i was a little surprised how easily the spring compresses. figured it would have some tension on it. i cant blow thru the top side of the valve which connects to the "s" hose. but i can blow thru the other bigger black side of the valve towards the "s" hose. is tht working properly thn?

thnx

Edited 1 September, 201015 yr by pete6810