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Edited 11 March, 201115 yr by xa0sx

Hello,

7) You'll see how they are fitted when you receive your new Skoda badges.

1) Peel back carpet in boot each side to expose rear of light cluster. Remove little front panel's surround to expose fixing screws/bolts, for front fog-lights.

4) Usually it the rear of the front facia that rattles, but over the cause of time other rattles sometimes emerge. Stone trapped in tyre tread a favourite to cause a tick sound.

5) The 312mm brake caliper I read seems to be the way forward, owners preference which brand.

Other members will no doubt have more/better knowledge than me.

Good luck.

Hello again mate,

I'll try and help best I can.

1. Headlights and front fogs are a bumper off job I'm afraid.

Fogs are fixed from above on the vRS so you can't access them

with the bumper on the car.

Rears are held in place by 4 nuts (10mm if I remember correctly.)

Three of them are easy enough to undo but the bottom one nearest

to the centre of the car is a fiddly one though. Particularly on the driver side

if you are right handed I found...

2. I am one of the anti splitter brigade I'm afraid but if you must there is a lot of info

on here and I'm sure that I've seen a picture guide. I think it is largely held in place

by short self tapping screws, but there will be some trimming of the splitter necessary

until it's sitting how you're happy with it. I'd imagine this job is also easier with the bumper off.

Handy really if you're taking the lights out

3. I think Lamin X offer pre cut pieces for certain popular cars. I bought an 8x12 piece

in Gunsmoke for part tinting my rear lights. and a 4x12 piece in yellow for my fogs.

Measure what you want to cover carefully before ordering as it's too expensive to

get it wrong. They don't give a bit of spare for luck either. Exact size paid for no extra.

Also you need an overlap to pull on to stretch it over curves (like fogs) so give yourself a margin.

It does stretch but not loads. Take your time to apply lamin x carefully and you can get some

cracking results

4. There are some common rattles, glovebox lid, seatbelts hitting trim, creaky seats but I'm

inclined to agree with the above post. It sounds like a stone in a rear tyre. But could be a

broken bit of trim clip inside one of the rear doorcards? They are quite brittle and you may

have a bit of one rattling around back there somewhere. Especially if the previous owner DIY fixed

the old leaky doors.

5. Boggo ones will do mate, I had a go in a Furb with these and I found the difference incredible

over mine. I'd say 100% better than standard if you need to stop quickly emergency style.

No need for anything fancy unless you go stage 2+ Besides, you can upgrade the pads and discs

any time once you've got the calipers and carriers etc on. Boggo = cheaper too

6. Can't help you there mate, haven't done it and wouldn't do it... I'd say just buy better standard

sized bulbs. Philips Xtreme or Nightbreakers etc. Sorry but I'm old and boring

7.The aftermarket badges aon yours re probably self adhesive or applied with double sided

foam tape. Hopefully they weren't glued on. Run a bit of fishing line or similar

behind it to try and cut through the adhesive. or you could use a credit card type card

and try and lever it off with that. A hairdryer may ease things a bit with some carefully

applied heat. Behind each badge there are two holes. The prongs

on the new OEM badges will go here. They'll be self adhesive too, the prongs

are for positioning more than anything else. Although in the front you can melt them

over from the rear of the grille section for added support if you wish. I used a soldering

iron to melt the prongs flat when I replaced the other halfs badge when the old one blistered.

8. Don't all radios do this if they are near a mobile recieving/transmitting? Maybe check

the aerial input on the rear of the head unit... It may be loose or have come out a little

and is making the radio more susceptible to interference?? That would be my first port of call.

HTH

Garry