im after a throttle body for my fun truck , will a second hand one do the job or is it best get a new one ? dose it have to be from a felicia or will a vw one be the same ? little help please

cheers ric

The throttle body for the 1.6 AEE engine is common across quite a few 1.0-1.6l engines found in VWs and SEATs - anything with the same part number (should be 030133064D) is identical, regardless of whether it's from a Polo/Golf/Caddy/Ibiza/Cordoba/etc. Some vehicles with the same AEE engine (e.g. early Octavias) used revision F of the same part number (along with later models of engines that used the rev. D part), so one of those may also work. In theory, I'd hazard a guess that any 40mm Marelli throttle body would work, but don't take my word on that.

You could probably get 4 or 5 second-hand ones for the price of a new one, but unfortunately I don't really know which would be the better option.

cheers mate , ill be going to have a little look for one tomorrow

I'd hazard a guess that any 40mm Marelli throttle body would work, but don't take my word on that.

the aee engines have a VDO throttle body fitted and not a magneti-marelli one you mention..

i'd go for a second hand one tbh, maybe about £30-50 at a breakers yard... a new one from the skoda dealer is about £350 and they will want your old one back in exchange.. you can get non-genuine ones from most of the usual suspects like gsf or ecp or any local motor factor for about £130 but i wouldn't recommend it, go for a second hand genuine unit

the aee engines have a VDO throttle body fitted and not a magneti-marelli one you mention..

Oops, there I go again. I'm sure I read that somewhere recently whilst digging around for info on the 1AV ECU, and never thought to confirm it.

On the subject, I thought mine was on it's way out as I'd been getting symptoms (idle speed sticking high and a couple of times bouncing between ~1500 and ~2500rpm), but having had the battery disconnected overnight whilst I was pulling the interior apart last weekend, it's reset itself and the transformation is amazing - all this week it's been smoother and better behaved than it ever was, even when starting from cold in the wet or the recent sub-zero temperatures.

iv got myself a throttle body , i havn't got a vagcom can i disconect the battery and fingers crossed it will reset its self ?

cheers ric

iv got myself a throttle body , i havn't got a vagcom can i disconect the battery and fingers crossed it will reset its self ?

cheers ric

Should do - I'm not sure how long you need to leave it to be sure (mine was off for around 24 hours). Afterwards it seemed to do an alignment run every time it was switched on but otherwise it works fine.

what is the course of it to fail ? the throttle body i mean . my engine is burning oil but not to bad of a rate would this course it to fail

cheers ric

I shouldn't think burning oil through the usual places (piston rings, valve stem seals) would make much difference, but if yours is anything like mine was when I got it and chucking oil up the crankcase breather (due to a clogged-up oil separator) then it can make a right mess in the throttle body.

I believe the most common points of failure are mechanical wear to the throttle position sensor or failure of the idle/full throttle switches or actuator motor, but Tom's the man who'd know more details.

there is a stepper motor inside commonly reffered to as the v60 motor, the throttle plate has a spring loaded lever which the stepper acts against, this opens the throttle a tiny amount to maintain an idle speed... the motor only tuns one direction, the ecu pulses the motor roughly 100 times a second (100hz) and the width of each pulse denoted how far open the throttle plate is at idle... one of the most common faults is the windings in he motor burning out causing the motor to go open circuit, there will however still be a base amount of throttle opening but the idling speed will be very low, maybe approx 500rpm..

ok, the stepper motor only operates when the throttle pedal is fully released, there is a pair of contacts which form a switch, these contacts are only closed when the throttle is closed which tells he ecu to operate the idling speed v60 motor.. it's also fairly common for the idle contacts to get corroded/dirty or even break off completely. this normally manifests itself with the idling speed rising and falling from around 1000rpm to 1500rpm of it's own accord, this is because the ecu doesn't 'know' the the engine is idling for sure so it kind of makes up it's own v60 stepper motor output, i can only pressume this is a failsafe system to 'get you home' in the event of the idling switch busting..

in addition to this there is a variable resistor track which acts as a throttle position sensor which the ecu uses for various functions, often this 'track' can get worn out through normal use.. it's difficult to explain but imagine you are driving at 40mph in top gear a lot, the 'track' will be most worn at this point for whatever throttle opening it happens to be....

it all sounds very complicated but if you crack open the black plastic cover on the side of the scrap throttle body and have a look it's more obvious.. the engine burning oil is probably irrelevant in this case but it does have other associated issues which may cause failiure of other items such as the map sensor or spark plugs being caked up with dirty oil

cheers for that , ill have a little look inside it see what was giving me the problems , i did have the plugs out the other day to see if they were caked up but they seemed fine to be honest ,, but thats a thread for an other day cheers for all the help from a happy little fun trucker ....