just had a vrs 170cr remapped./

due to the weather i cant tell how good the map is.

what would be the next logical step on the tuning front.

dpf removal.panel air filter,exhaust.

Best route would of been....

DPF Removal,Air Filter and Exhaust AND THEN Remap :'(

Your now going to have to pay for 2 remaps as you will need a new map as soon as you remove the DPF and to take into account the exhaust

I think your next performance improvement should be to sort out the handling. Hence I would look to upgrade the suspension and the anti roll bars. This will let you fully exploit your extra power from your remap and make the car much quicker than another remap. I would then suggest some IAM or track lessons to learn how to drive better as often the weakest link in any cars performance is the driver (always remember the Top Gear episode with the woman racing driver in the transit around the Nuremburg ring and how quick she was- not a particular fast vehicle but with correct driving got some very good times).

the CR engine seems less likely to have DPF probs, why not upgrade the suspension next

which suspension would you recommend.

was looking at some ebach springs or would you go coilovers

Coilovers are generally a little lower, but can also be a harder ride, depends on your roads, Im very content with my Eibach matched shocks and springs setup, strikes just the right balance for me. price wise, there is little difference also.

Get the brakes uprated - I found them to fade quite quickly even on the standard power.

Get the brakes uprated - I found them to fade quite quickly even on the standard power.

Agreed the 312mm Kit is an Excellent upgrade kit for Ibiza,Fabia,Polo but its not so good on the Leon

354mm Cupra/S3/R32 brakes are the way forward

arent they heavier though?

I find the 312mm to be pretty good, although I dont have to do a lot of braking!

They probably are heavier but there worth it, i havent got them on mine as not sure if im keeping it now but if i do keep it i will be fitting them

Driven plenty of cars with them on Mainly Leon Cupra and Leon Cupra R and there brilliant

They probably are heavier but there worth it, i havent got them on mine as not sure if im keeping it now but if i do keep it i will be fitting them

Driven plenty of cars with them on Mainly Leon Cupra and Leon Cupra R and there brilliant

thanks for the advice chaps

After having remapped my Mk2 Octy 1.9 TDI 105 would appreciate some tips as well about the next steps...

Edited 3 January, 201115 yr by ajex

arent they heavier though?

I find the 312mm to be pretty good, although I dont have to do a lot of braking!

Def a bit heavier but as already said, they are well worth it :yes: My only comment would be to also fit the matching rears as this stops a bit of "nose dive".

IIRC other VAG group cars with 235bhp & upwards; have this set up as standard, so seems sensible when you are putting outputs to this level and above, especially when the Octy is heavier anyway?

FWIW, the old rule of thumb, was improve brakes & handling first & to a level to match the intended output.

i think sonme guys on here are confused woth the brakes (might be me reading it wrog though ). both the diesel and petrol octavia vRS have 312mm front discs. as does the GTI, ED30 and leon Fr. The Leon Cupra, Cupra R, Scirrocco R, S3 etc all have 345mm front discs. these are alot better than the 312s which IMO are rubbish.

I did alot of track work, i had uprated fluid, hoses, pads and discs but they were still unsuitable for hard work. uprated pads and fluid make a large improvment over stock though if you are willing to pay for quality.

Handling wise, the vRS responds very well to Anti roll bar upgrades. Your options include Eibach, whiteline, KW, H&R and BSH amongst others. usually around £150 per bar

There is the whiteline anti lift kit which adds castor, usually around £140.

The TT lower control arms allow you front suspension to have adjustable camber, so you can greatly increase front end cornering grip as well as reducing unsprung weight. this is safe for tyre wear as well when you consider this is standard fit on theTTs to make them handle better.

I had coilovers but in all honesty they were excellent in germany and on track, but when i moved back to the UK it was to crashy on the crap roads over here. Ive tried Koni FSDs and eibachs. not a bad combo, and rides very well. The bilstein B12 suspension kit is even better again. expect to pay aropund £600-700 for good suspension upgrade. \for good coilovers like KW expect to increase that from £700-1000.

Also the engine mounts are crap as stock and rock like crazy causing axle tramp/wheel hop etc. Full set of THS mounts is only around £245. this is for the TFSI but id presume the mounts are in the same place on the diesel

If my money was in an octavia vRS again id go the following order with handling

whiteline front and rear adjustable ARBs (set front bar soft, rear bar stiff)

WALK

TT lower control arms

Brake pads/fluid hoses or even an uprated kit if i had the money

THS engine mounts

Suspension

I have a PD170, I started with DPF Delete and remap, fitted a Dieselgeek shortshifter, Brembo 330mm brakes and fitting H&R coilovers and H&R Front & Rear ARB's next week. Think the brakes and suspenstion have to be looked after if you want the car to handle the extra power safely.

I have a CR170 VRS and have sorted the suspension out, as standard the car suffers quite a lot from body roll and excessive understeer, more so than the petrol due to the heavier engine up front so you have to treat it a little different on the handling front to get the best out of it, first of all I would fit the Rear ARB, go for a heavier rear bar than would normally be fitted to a Petrol, I have a 28mm APR Bar set on Softest setting but a 25mm on medium would be similar, and fit the Whiteline Anti Lift Kit ( this makes the car really hold the front inside wheel down on the road in cornering, almost feels like it has an LSD fitted) along with Eibach Pro-Kit Springs and Koni FSD's. The standard suspension on the VRS ( or any sport variant of VAG CARS) suffers from being under damped and oversprung, which essentially means that when the wheels hits a bump the suspension oscillates after the bump, a bit like the effect of dropping a bouncy ball, one large bounce followed by progressively smaller bounces, this makes for a crashy ride over the pot hole strewn landscape they have the audacity to call roads now! the FSD's Really smooth this out fantastically and the bumps you do feel don't go on for 10 meters after the bump, I was amazed at how they have changed the feel of the car and the overall comfort whilst controlling roll in directional changes ( partly due as well to the ARB) .....I considered all options on my new car, 2010 vrs, I have had 2 Mk 1's and 3 different sets of Coilovers, ( B+G imported from the states which incorporate a valve similar to the FSD were the best, followed by KW V2's then the awful FK's which were very bouncy and poorly constructed, the coilovers are too hard for use on our roads, great for lowering the car but the handling will suffer due to no compliance in mid corner bumps......if you do go FSD's make sure that you go with the new 4090 kit specifically designed for the VRS / GTI not the original 4001 kit as it suffered failures as spring rated on the vrs/gti were higher than the dampers were designed for, even though the kit was sold as suitable, it became apparent it was not......hope this helps, my car feels properly 'sorted' on the suspension front with great ( better than standard ) comfort and kart like handling.

I would not bother with airfilters on a diesel nor removing the DPF, as the CR uses a partial DPF and runs very clean accurate fuelling compared to the problematic PD's ( which were never designed to take a DPF).

As Far as brakes go I have found that the 312mm kit is perfectly adequate for fast road use if matched to good brake fluid ( super Dot 4.1) and good brake pads, I used Ferodo DS2500's and never suffered any brake fade whatsoever even driving it very hard, I dare say on track they would suffer but for road use they are perfect adequate

Edited 14 January, 201115 yr by The Skud

Blimey. What next? I was thinking maybe beaded seat covers and one of those leatherette steering wheel covers?

fit the Whiteline Anti Lift Kit ( this makes the car really hold the front inside wheel down on the road in cornering, almost feels like it has an LSD fitted)

Do you know how easy fitting is for the WALK? Or did you have it fitted while the Eibachs & FSDs were going on? Just wondering if it's a DIY job, or something best done with a set of ramps...

Good thread. I'm having my TFSI VRS remapped at some point this year (maybe at JabbaSport). They only offer an eiback F+R ARB kit and previously I had only considered RARB. Is it worth having both front and rear done? I have also noticed the front go a bit light at times, I assume the WALK would help cure this.

I'm not interested in turning the car in to a track weapon (the VRS is the family car), but wondering if a remap and front and rear arb would be the best comprise without spending silly money. Do you need to uprate the front ARB in order to benefit fron the WALK, or can you have the WALK without?

Fitting the WALK is pretty simple, I just did not have the time now the inclination to spend hours fitting the suspension and WALK ( other than the ARB) so I got PSI to fit it all, they only cahrged 1 hours labour to fit the WALK so it wasn't worth the hassle, especially in winter time with the temperatures we have had!! You will however need a four wheel alignment done post fitting with either the suspension, WALK or Front ARB fitting. You can fit the rear ARB in 20 Mins no alignment needed, the front is a bit more involved as the subframe needs dropping to remove / refit and an alignment doing post fitting, you can fit the ARB's front and rear without fitting a WALK( and Vice versa) but it is a VERY worthwhile mod in getting the power down out of the corners

The front going 'light' in cornering is understeer, the Rear ARB and the WALK sort this out, if you want only the rear ARB look at the Autotech bar or the H & R one as they are sold individually. The only combination you should NOT do is fit only a front uprated ARB as your car will understeer more

Whiteline ALK fitting instructions

Edited 14 January, 201115 yr by The Skud

Any thoughts on what I should do after getting my 1.9 TDI remapped from 105 to 135!!!Feel like I need quicker acceleration and may be something special& cheerful!!!Had it remapped from Shark during Xmas..

Edited 21 February, 201115 yr by ajex