Ok, it's not raining, all the kit is here, so I thought I'd start on the install.

Where's the "BD-9" connector please? Does this refer to a connector block, or connector block+location? (The manual is useless, as is Haynes.)

Cheers

Alex

The connectors across the top of the fuse box are grouped and labelled, from L-R:

AA, AB, BA, BB, BC, BD, BE, BF, C

So you want pin 9 of BD (the black one) - if you look very closely, the pin numbers are marked on the top of the connector blocks.

edit: of course, it may not necessarily be black, but it is on mine, anyway

Looking at the spare shell I have to hand for connector C, the pin numbering (as you look at the fusebox) should be:

14 13

12 11

10 9

8 7

6 5

4 3

2 1

Edited 8 January, 201115 yr by RobinSLXi

Aw heck, Alex, you've made me realise what a nincompoop I've been - I thought at the time the reference to a blue wire on AA for the door contact switches was wrong and was related to the diesel preheating system. But look, there it is clearly on my photo of my car! Looks like I was counting the pins backwards - seems it's actually related to the lights-on warning buzzer and might explain why my auto-locking doesn't quite work as expected, as I've wired that into the interior light side of the switches instead.

Oh well, it's sunny here too so I'll pop out and put it right...

edit: OK, that doesn't work either - it doesn't get the 'doors closed' signal at all. The diagrams say AA/4 is connected to the sidelight warning buzzer in R6. Note the absence of anything in R6 in the picture above, so where is my warning buzzer, since I definitely have one? I'll have to have another poke around tomorrow...

And guess what? Having finally put together a selection of M6 hardware to substitute for that pesky latch bolt we discussed, I find my tailgate lock doesn't actually have the arm to attach it to! What a day :'(

Edited 8 January, 201115 yr by RobinSLXi

Thanks Robin, managed to get hooked into BD-9 in the end. I was thrown by the nice connector on the end of the red power cable, looking like it should go into a vacant splace on a block instead of being hooked into the existing one in number 9.

Managed to get the passenger door motor installed (with the driver's one in the footwell), but whilst it works, it's not man enough to move the lock :-(

It started to rain so I locked the truck up and spent some time re-wiring one of the other motors. It seems that there are two types of connector on the motors: one is single-row, the other is two-row. Have re-wired the loom/connector, checked that it works and then it rained and got cold. Kinda stopped play for the day at that point.

You mention auto-lock, is that extra or part of the c/l system?

Also, in reference to Martyns brother's c/l problem - the control unit does make a single click when locking/unlocking, although it's not very loud. (my unit isn't mounted yet, so it was easy to listen to :-) )

Alex

You mention auto-lock, is that extra or part of the c/l system?

It's a function of the remote c/l unit - you can set it so that if it's unlocked remotely, it will lock again if no doors are opened within 1 minute. However the way mine works, the timer only deactivates if the door is opened and closed again within that minute - if you just open a door and leave it for a minute it'll still lock the rest of the car and then signal that it didn't lock properly (since a door was open). Silly thing.

It's a function of the remote c/l unit - you can set it so that if it's unlocked remotely, it will lock again if no doors are opened within 1 minute. However the way mine works, the timer only deactivates if the door is opened and closed again within that minute - if you just open a door and leave it for a minute it'll still lock the rest of the car and then signal that it didn't lock properly (since a door was open). Silly thing.

Oh cool. The Focus has that too, but as the remote locking on that isn't working,.,,,, ;-) (like most of the rest of it)

I'll look at that when I get the remote installed.

edit: OK, that doesn't work either - it doesn't get the 'doors closed' signal at all. The diagrams say AA/4 is connected to the sidelight warning buzzer in R6. Note the absence of anything in R6 in the picture above, so where is my warning buzzer, since I definitely have one? I'll have to have another poke around tomorrow...

And guess what? Having finally put together a selection of M6 hardware to substitute for that pesky latch bolt we discussed, I find my tailgate lock doesn't actually have the arm to attach it to! What a day :'(

The warning buzzer is part of the instrument cluster.

Bummer on the tailgate. :-(

Discovered there are two types of connector on the lock motors: One is a single row, the other a double row. Also the link arms from the motors to the mechanism come in two sizes, guess who fitted the wrong one on the passenger door first time round? :-O

Managed to get the central locking installed. Mounted the control behind the cluster, but as the mounting was absent from the kit, it's located behind that odd curved blank panel on the right, screwed into the plastic. Got the remote wired up, but it's not working :-( Sadly, ran out of light, time and patience. I set the fob up, put the fuse in, get the ignition on I, push fob 3 times (1 second each) and nothing happens. :-S Will check things over tomorrow lunchtime.

Alex

Managed to get the central locking installed. Mounted the control behind the cluster, but as the mounting was absent from the kit, it's located behind that odd curved blank panel on the right, screwed into the plastic. Got the remote wired up, but it's not working :-( Sadly, ran out of light, time and patience. I set the fob up, put the fuse in, get the ignition on I, push fob 3 times (1 second each) and nothing happens. :-S Will check things over tomorrow lunchtime.

What I did was to assume that the translator couldn't tell the difference between I and II.

There are only 3 wires related to power: negative, perma-live and inhibit. Inhibit only engergises on stage II. Nothing is connected on stage I. Not really sure of the purpose of the inhibitor though, given that you can lock the doors by hand, and most people have the remote on the same keyring as the ingition key, which will be hanging out of the barrel when stage II is engaged.

Alex

...given that you can lock the doors by hand...

Or, as I manage at least once a week, by elbow or armpit whilst swiping the car park pass

Oh, and don't blame the translator, blame Skoda - if you look at it the ignition is actually labelled Lock-0-I-II, so the instructions are correct. Now to seek out my copy of said instructions for that secondary output...

Does this also mean I can start taunting you with this?

Does this also mean I can start taunting you with this?

Hmmmm, thank you :p

I need a 2nd key cut as I currently only have 1. Does the VW key have a compatible transponder chip?

Nice wiring job.

Would a 2-button one do the job? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VW-POLO-PASSAT-GOLF-2-BUTTONS-REMOTE-FLIP-KEY-FOB-CASE-/280614570113?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4155ee8881

Edited 10 January, 201115 yr by RainbowFore

Hmmmm, thank you :p

I need a 2nd key cut as I currently only have 1. Does the VW key have a compatible transponder chip?

Nice wiring job.

Would a 2-button one do the job? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VW-POLO-PASSAT-GOLF-2-BUTTONS-REMOTE-FLIP-KEY-FOB-CASE-/280614570113?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4155ee8881

The flip keys only came in with VAG cars which use crypto transponders, so you won't find one with the fixed-code chip needed for a Felicia. The newest ones can't even be reprogrammed to a different car, so it's fine to start with a second-hand original key (as I did) and see who wins between glued-in glass capsule and big screwdriver. Technically only the shell is necessary but as I had the original board too it was handy to rob the SMT LED and one of the switches off it. The 2 and 3 button shells are effectively the same, but the rounded-button type use a different battery to the square-button shells - I can see ways in which that might make some of it a bit easier but might also not work at all.

I was planning to post up details once I've reworked the wiring a bit as it's not entirely satisfactory, but it does all work, and it's all genuine Skoda parts!