Worro chaps & chappettes,

Just put me order on a furby today, and have decided (already :P) that i'd want to upgrade the stock ICE...

LOOOOADS of questions i got bouncin round my head...i've read the Guide on how to run power cables from the engine bay so that kinda covers that one...BUT....

BREATHE IN!

Head Unit

I'm considering a fairly high power HU (BlauP Bremen, Pioneer 8600, Alpine 9835R) so have been informed a beefier power feed may be required. Is this nonsense?

Also, i've read about a live/switched feed anomoly (sp -massive word :P) can anyone explain more about this? Its the BlauP converter lead thing a good solution?

The Front Speakers

anyone got any words to the wise on upgrading the front speakers...can components be installed easily? (ie is there a space for tweeters & x-overs?)

Do these adaptors actually help? (Car Audio Direct - Link)

The Rear Speakers

STUPID QUESTION ALERT

I'm assuming there is rear speakers. Are these easier to upgrade than the rears? I know the fronts are the important ones to fiddle with but may aswell as consider total system options.

The Boot

Active sub or custom enclosure....i've been considering an Alpine SWD-2000

does anyone have any experience of these...would a simple box, sub & amp setup be better?

AND BREATHE OUT

Thanks for all who got this far on reading, i eagerly await any replys

MPM

Right here we go.

Headunit...

Im running a Pioneer 77-MP unit and the standard power feed is just fine, however some Alpine units to advise you run a perm 12v feed from the battery. If I was going to do this i'd be temped to run the 4awg cable into the car for your amp and up front fit a distribution block so you can take off power feeds for the stereo.

As for the switching of the ignition and perm 12v feeds most looms will have this facility to swap anyhow. ISO connectors on the car so you prolly wont need another loom, but it is advisable to get an aerial amp. 9approx (12 from Halfords, wire it into an aerial wire or amp remote feed).

Front Speakers....

Comps are the best upgrade up front, can go to 16.5 cms but keep the mounting depth below 65mm (approx) as there is a window channel right behind it, make the speaker adapters with MDF much better than plastic ones.

Rear Speakers.... Leave alone.

Sub...

Really up to you and what your needs are with boot space, ive got a single 12" JL Audio sub powered by a Genesis Profile four amp, this set up produces all the bass i'd ever need and then some.

And welcome to Briskoda btw

Good idea on the dizzy block to feed power wire!

So, with comps up front, where would u advise mounting the tweeters? Jammed in Corners of the dash?

Nice boot install you got there, although i think that's a bit space rich for my liking...

Also, very nice tailpipe setup you've got there....what is it? (i'm not too fond of the oval thing)

Ta,

MPM

Tweeters id say mount in the std place if you can. Take off the trim for them and get creative with a knife and a hot glue gun

Exhaust look here..

http://www.briskoda.net/reviews/showproduct.php/product/345

For the sub/amp in rear, smaller is better, unless you never want to use your boot

Ok, so i've done some lookin....and levelled it down to the following -

HU - Pioneer 8600

Front Comps

Sub

Whaddya fink....compatability issues?

MPM

Whats the mounting depth of the comps?

dunno, i had a good google session and haven't come up with anything...there is a bit of gumpf on the Alpine website that says....

..."Custom-Fit Adapters/Spacers"

The SPS-171A comes with a custom-fit adaptor/spacer that allows upsizing/downsizing of both screw hole patterns and cut-out diameter for easy factory speaker replacement in a wide range of vehicles. It also comes with a new spacer for Honda cars. The SPS-571A facilitates speaker replacement with a 6″ x 8″ (15cm x 20cm) adapter.....

I assume that means they've taken shallow mounts into consideration?...

MPM

Sounds like the adapter is for diameter not depth.

hmmm, any recommendations for comps that fit around the

The other thing with comps is that you'll need to make sure the box can fit behind the door card (like you see on my original thread where I describe how to remove the door card).

If the crossover box doesn't fit between the door card and the silver steel plate, then it'll have to be behind the glove box. And if it's behind the glove box, you might as well fit the tweeter on the dash, in the corner and build some fibreglass kicks like I did because cabling will be a big issue.

I didn't have the courage to try and feed thicker / extra cables through the OEM door conduits because of the plastic connectors at the main body end giving me a real headache.

Most excellent thread on how to strip the door down!

I've decided to be sensible, ordered the HU & the alpine active sub, will see how that sounds and will upgrade door speakers if i feel SQ is a tad naff up front...Just need to follow the guide on running the power cable from bonnet to boot now & prey i don't break 'owt!

Cheers,

MPM

Welcome... space rich? I'm thinking of replacing those subs with some JLs similar to Ross' one above. But as for space, I officially have 3" down the sides of the box, and about 10" in front of the subs, but also a bloody hole in the false floor... Basically, when I carry stuff - its back seat time.

LOL, the wife doesn't like the idea of fillin the boot with subs....